Conflicted- Briggs twin or magnum 20?
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Thread: Conflicted- Briggs twin or magnum 20?

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    Mudrig150's Avatar
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    Conflicted- Briggs twin or magnum 20?

    So I'm conflicted.

    I bought a tractor with an absolutely destroyed KT17.

    My options:

    Magnum 20, threw a rod and scored the crank. The oil pump gear and governor gear are unusable. Both cylinder jugs are full of rust from sitting with water in them. Non broken piston is missing the wrist pin.\

    It needs a wrist pin, another piston, a hone job, a crank polishing, oil pump gear, governor gear, and an oil pressure sensor.

    OR

    Briggs opposed twin, I'll buy it from a Cub 582 or a Craftsman, 16 or 18 horsepower.

    Both have pulse pumps, both have magneto ignition,

    Which would be better to replace the KT17?
    1982 John deere 317, powered by Kohler Magnum 18
    1969 John deere 140 "One eyed Larry", powered by Kohler K241, H2 hydraulics
    1963 Burns B-60 Suburban, serial 1328

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    etcallhome's Avatar
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    Lately things I've seen on line about B&S , IMO I wouldn't buy

    Crafstman Not sure who made their engine.
    Gene

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    Mudrig150's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by etcallhome View Post
    Lately things I've seen on line about B&S , IMO I wouldn't buy

    Crafstman Not sure who made their engine.
    I mean an older craftsman, like 80s with an actual shaft drive instead of the crap they have now.
    1982 John deere 317, powered by Kohler Magnum 18
    1969 John deere 140 "One eyed Larry", powered by Kohler K241, H2 hydraulics
    1963 Burns B-60 Suburban, serial 1328

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    Mudrig, I'd stay away from a repair/rebuild on your existing engines. KT17 has a whole in the block, so not much discussion there! Magnum 20 is also VERY questionable. Throwing a rod can distort your block...maybe .0001 or .010... and the engine may not reassemble correctly. It may run fine for a while, or not! Also, the rusted cylinders may be pitted deep enough that you'll need a re-bore and over-sized pistons.

    I'd go with a re-power from another tractor. Don't know what engine the Cub or Craftsman have, so can't comment. Look into crank center-line height and pto clutch diameter as well as mounting your driveshaft. Not a deal breaker, but you may have to add a kill switch to shut down the magneto ignition. Bob
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    Probably easier to find a Kohler Magnum than one of those old B&S. Plus it would be a direct bolt in (other than the ignition).
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    Mudrig150's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KennyP View Post
    Probably easier to find a Kohler Magnum than one of those old B&S. Plus it would be a direct bolt in (other than the ignition).
    So far it's actually been the exact opposite. Put out a wanted ad for a kohler magnum in a Craftsman group with 20,000 people and exactly 0 responses. I got two for the wheel horse group. Every magnum I have managed to find has literally been the exact same as mine, with cylinder 1 blown.
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    1982 John deere 317, powered by Kohler Magnum 18
    1969 John deere 140 "One eyed Larry", powered by Kohler K241, H2 hydraulics
    1963 Burns B-60 Suburban, serial 1328

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    Mudrig150's Avatar
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    I think the briggs swap is easiest. I'd much rather modify the motor mounts to lower the engine 1/2 inch than comepletely rebuild.

    The best part is I already have an offer for a Briggs 16 horse.
    Last edited by Mudrig150; 03-06-2019 at 12:14 PM.
    1982 John deere 317, powered by Kohler Magnum 18
    1969 John deere 140 "One eyed Larry", powered by Kohler K241, H2 hydraulics
    1963 Burns B-60 Suburban, serial 1328

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