1975 300 hydrostatic help
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    1975 300 hydrostatic help

    Hello all, I just purchased a 1975? I believe model 300. I’m new to these. But my question is to drive the tractor I need to hold the drive lever in position. If I let it go it just creeps back to neutral on its own. I’m pretty sure it’s not supposed to do this. Anyone have ideas on what to check?
    cnd norm likes this.

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    Raise the hood and follow the control lever down to it's pivot point. That should be a bolt with a lock nut. There should be friction washers in the connection. Tightening the nut a little at a time should get it to hold position, but will also make the lever harder to move. Just adjust it to where it holds properly, but not too hard to move. You might have to remove the battery and tray to get good access for hands and wrenches.
    Once you've done this, be aware that the tractor may have what we call "hydro creep". That is when the lever is returned to neutral but the tractor wants to creep forward or backwards until you can wiggle the lever into the sweet spot. Correcting wear in the linkage at the tranny and adjustment by the service manual instructions will be needed to cure that. Maybe you will get lucky and not have that problem. Not a tough thing to fix, but a very necessary repair if it happens.

    tommyhawk
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    checking brakes on #300

    It might be a good idea to check that the brakes are set-up correctly. By pushing on the brakes, the machine should stop from creeping. While peddle is depressed, move small lever (to the left of peddle with round nobb) up-ward and lock to the right. This acts as the parking brake. If set-up is needed, let us know for further info.
    Last edited by cnd norm; 03-26-2019 at 03:29 PM.

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    Sounds great. I did notice the parking brake lever won’t go into the locked position. I see a broken return spring on the left side brake arm. I’m going to replace that and take a look at the brakes. Thanks for all the help guys.

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    I also have another question, I’m going to replace the fluid and filter. It looks like ATF in there now. What should it be?

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    Dave, I have made a mistake about where to tighten the lever's tension. The friction washers are more like square plates than round washers. They do add friction to the "pivot" (JD's name for it) but it is downstream a ways from the actual lever connection. The "pivot" is near the shock absorber which is there to dampen the effect of lever movement so the hydro does not engage/disengage too abruptly.
    You might be able to see it from under the tractor if you have the deck off. There are linkage differences according to s/n break for the 300. When you go looking for parts, be sure to have the serial number from the tractor handy. Check out JD Parts online. It will help you see the linkage pieces, though not always exactly where they fit.

    Sorry for the confusing information!

    tommyhawk

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    I use JD low-vis Hygard. It’s cheaper than atf and it has helped a bit with other issues when it replaced atf.

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    Would it be ok to just drain out the ATFreplace filter and fill with hygard?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Busa dave View Post
    Would it be ok to just drain out the ATFreplace filter and fill with hygard?
    Sure is. I might dump a few ounces in before replacing the drain plug, but that’s over kill, and a dye in the fluid does make life easier. I buy dye from the dealer to make checking the level easier.

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    The 300 has a dipstick for the hydro oil. Dye isn't that important if you can find any.
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    Mike

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    300, 140, 318, 430, 314, 110. Brinly plows, disk, 80 cart, couple of 49 blowers, 3 54 blades, 33 tiller, tilt dump MCS, HPX Gator, CS Gator, Model A. Struck MD 750 w/bucket and hoe.
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