JD 316 Lift Valve Leaking
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Thread: JD 316 Lift Valve Leaking

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    CT77's Avatar
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    JD 316 Lift Valve Leaking

    The lift valve (I believe it is called) on my mower has a leak. This is the valve that the lever to lift the mower deck up and down is hooked to. There is a cap that goes over the spring and fluid is dripping from that. There is no gasket on the cap, just held down by 2 screws. My question, looking at the diagram there seems to be an o ring in there (#1 in picture)...anybody ever replace this? Curious on how the spring comes out? Thanks for any help.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Capture+_2019-04-28-21-00-19~2_1556500683824.png  

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    Looks like there is a screw under that cap. Here's a page from the Tech Manual on it.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by KennyP; 04-29-2019 at 07:08 AM.
    VietNam Vet, 68-69
    68 Mower
    '74 112 Tractor
    '86 316 Tractor (361703)
    '89 265 Tractor (597403)
    F725 Front Mow (032048)

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    CT77's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KennyP View Post
    Looks like there is a screw under that cap. Here's a page from the Tech Manual on it.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Perfect. Thanks! Gonna hopefully dig into it soon.

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    Have you got the Tech Manual?
    VietNam Vet, 68-69
    68 Mower
    '74 112 Tractor
    '86 316 Tractor (361703)
    '89 265 Tractor (597403)
    F725 Front Mow (032048)

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    CT77's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KennyP View Post
    Have you got the Tech Manual?
    No, I do not.

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    CT, Pay particular attention to the note about MEDIUM STRENGTH THREADLOCK. Do NOT use high strength !!! With high strength, you'll snap the head off of the screw unless you heat it above 450ºF. I'd use a low strength (Locktite 242 or equivalent). The screw is torgued, so the thread lock is a "belts & suspender" approach.

    I've had some experience with Locktite products and I'd like to share an experience with the followers of this thread:
    A few years back I worked as an Assembly Supervisor. We had a bearing case that wasn't to spec and had to be dismantled for remachining. The cap was held on with 2" 4140 studs held in place with Locktite 271. The studs needed to be removed so I had two of my strongest guys (275-350 pounders) on the end of a 4 foot pipe wrench with an 11' piece of 2" pipe on the wrench. As they pulled, I watched the pipe bend about 2 foot and the top of the stud twist about 1/4 turn...the bottom threads held fast in the base! I said, 'Gimme a torch'. They took the 4' wrench & pipe off of the stud and I heated the stud. Soon I saw a puff of smoke around the threads. All I had for tools was a 10" pipe wrench and the stud started to turn! It cooled, I reheated, and took the stud out with the 10" wrench. High strength is definitely high strength! Bob
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
    '82 314 w/rear PTO for tiller
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    Mod 48 deck & Mod 462 TracVac

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    Quote Originally Posted by CT77 View Post
    No, I do not.
    I sent you a PM. This is an Onan powered 316?
    Last edited by KennyP; 04-30-2019 at 06:31 PM.
    VietNam Vet, 68-69
    68 Mower
    '74 112 Tractor
    '86 316 Tractor (361703)
    '89 265 Tractor (597403)
    F725 Front Mow (032048)

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    CT77's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rwmeyer View Post
    CT, Pay particular attention to the note about MEDIUM STRENGTH THREADLOCK. Do NOT use high strength !!! With high strength, you'll snap the head off of the screw unless you heat it above 450ºF. I'd use a low strength (Locktite 242 or equivalent). The screw is torgued, so the thread lock is a "belts & suspender" approach.

    I've had some experience with Locktite products and I'd like to share an experience with the followers of this thread:
    A few years back I worked as an Assembly Supervisor. We had a bearing case that wasn't to spec and had to be dismantled for remachining. The cap was held on with 2" 4140 studs held in place with Locktite 271. The studs needed to be removed so I had two of my strongest guys (275-350 pounders) on the end of a 4 foot pipe wrench with an 11' piece of 2" pipe on the wrench. As they pulled, I watched the pipe bend about 2 foot and the top of the stud twist about 1/4 turn...the bottom threads held fast in the base! I said, 'Gimme a torch'. They took the 4' wrench & pipe off of the stud and I heated the stud. Soon I saw a puff of smoke around the threads. All I had for tools was a 10" pipe wrench and the stud started to turn! It cooled, I reheated, and took the stud out with the 10" wrench. High strength is definitely high strength! Bob
    Wow! Had no idea that stuff was that strong! Thanks for the heads up.

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    CT77's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KennyP View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by CT77 View Post
    No, I do not.
    I sent you a PM. This is an Onan powered 316?
    Ok. Yes, it is an Onan.
    KennyP likes this.

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    CT77's Avatar
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    Got it fixed tonight. Took a 5/8 in. I.D. x 13/16 in. O.D. x 3/32 in. o-ring. Thanks for the info. everybody.
    KennyP likes this.

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