317 Phase 2: Engine rebuild
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Thread: 317 Phase 2: Engine rebuild

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    Mudrig150's Avatar
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    317 Phase 2: Engine rebuild

    We went over the weekend to pick up the parts haul from the same guy I bought my 317 from.

    100$ for a mint 140 seat, really nice 212 hood with 3 intact mounts and one that's pulled the bolts out but is still in one piece, one single awful side panel from my 317, a motor, what's left of my brother's 300 minus the engine, a steering wheel for his patio 140, a transmission speed control handle, and a headlight lens.

    My brother's 300 is for parts, so I stole the steering wheel, rear plate, the intact brake pads and drum, and the choke cable, and my brother took the front lines, front plate, H2 valve and handles, and the front tires.

    We will be selling what's left, which isn't much, just the bad transmission and the steering components.

    So about the motor: it's a K321 from a 214. It's...seen better days. It has had a fuel pump replacement, which went on with no gasket, and of course leaks like a sieve. It must've ran without oil, the original owner decided to run it till it blew up, then rebuilt it, even worse than original. They added an insert to fix the excessive tolerance on the crank, replaced the whole piston, and honed it.

    EVERYTHING THEY DID IS WRONG.

    The insert was added onto the heavily scored crank, which of course was grabbed by the ridges and it began spinning the insert.

    They honed it incorrectly by shoving the hone in and not moving it at all while holding the button on the drill, so the crosshatching is horizontal.

    The motor, to no one's surprise, threw another rod after just about 4 or 5 hours of running.

    Luckily for me, it threw both rods into the oil pan, which ruined the pan and required RTV, Silicone, and a pan gasket to seal after the first thrown rod.

    Good thing we have a 140 crank and piston I can use to replace the damaged ones, so I guess I'll rehone the cylinder and reuse the new piston head from the 214 motor and the rod and crank from the 140 motor.
    1982 John deere 317, powered by Kohler Magnum 18
    1969 John deere 140 "One eyed Larry", powered by Kohler K241, H2 hydraulics
    1963 Burns B-60 Suburban, serial 1328

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    Mudrig150's Avatar
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    Here's some pictures.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20190427-133702.jpg   20190427-154418.jpg   20190427-133233.jpg   20190428-190835.jpg   20190427-171617 (1).jpg  

    20190428-190828.jpg   20190427-170138.jpg  
    Tomfive and johnH123 like this.
    1982 John deere 317, powered by Kohler Magnum 18
    1969 John deere 140 "One eyed Larry", powered by Kohler K241, H2 hydraulics
    1963 Burns B-60 Suburban, serial 1328

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    Mudrig150's Avatar
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    So I spent 6 whole hours yesterday and still wasn't able to get the flywheel off. I've been at this for almost a week at this point. I'm getting tired of this. My whole weight on a pry bar on the flywheel and still won't pop. It's like the freaking hulk pounded the flywheel on with a sledgehammer.



    Anyway, I decided that since the flywheel is being an annoying son of a heck I'd just take the rest of the motor apart.

    Oh.

    My.

    God.

    The list of stuff they did wrong keeps piling up. Here's the updated version.

    Didn't mic crank when adding insert
    Honed it sort of correctly (They roughed it up but not well)
    Fuel pump screws hand tightened (didn't use a screw driver or anything)
    No gasket on fuel pump
    No gasket, seal, gaskets, or sponge in breather
    incorrect baffle in breather
    gaskets in breather replaced with way too much silicone
    Rod and cap in backwards
    Coil shroud on sideways
    Muffler chopped open and rewelded
    Baffle and muffler shield horribly cracked and damaged
    Condensor not bolted down
    Pliers used on everything
    Yikes.



    So, the bore is roughed up, but the crosshatching is horizontal, not diagonal. Would I still be able to use the bore and have the rings seat?
    1982 John deere 317, powered by Kohler Magnum 18
    1969 John deere 140 "One eyed Larry", powered by Kohler K241, H2 hydraulics
    1963 Burns B-60 Suburban, serial 1328

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    Mudrig, The Kohler Service Manual recommends a puller to remove the flywheel, "El Cheapo's" can be bought at Harbor Freight and many auto parts stores have these to lend/rent.

    Cylinder honing: The concept of the 45º cross hatch is primarily for oil retention during the seating process. Rings are hard, walls are soft and oil is maintained between the cross hatch lines so your walls wear in and not pick-up and/or gall. You should be OK with horizontal honing lines, but I'd mic the bores and see if there's any stock left to possibly hone them correctly. If no stock, kep your fingers crossed and run as is.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Kohler K321 Flywheel.bmp  
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
    '82 314 w/rear PTO for tiller
    33 tiller
    49 thrower
    54 4 way blade
    Mod 48 deck & Mod 462 TracVac

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    Mudrig150's Avatar
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    I did use a puller and all that accomplished was ripping the threads out of the flywheel. This thing is torqued on at least 10x over spec.
    1982 John deere 317, powered by Kohler Magnum 18
    1969 John deere 140 "One eyed Larry", powered by Kohler K241, H2 hydraulics
    1963 Burns B-60 Suburban, serial 1328

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    Mudrig, 2 solutions: cut flywheel in half and remove (NOT SUGESTED!!!) or re-tap. Drill existing hole larger, progressively about 1/32 or 1/16 at a time, and re-tap. Install puller and snug. Apply PB and let sit overnight. Snug puller til tight, REAL tight, and tap puller screw with steel hammer. Use a steel hammer, you want a "shock effect". When flywheel does come off, it's gonna fly off, so don't be in front of it and be prepared! The crank shaft is tapered and just a little over-tightening makes it a bear to remove the flywheel. When re-assembling, put never seize on crank shaft, it prevents galvanic corrosion (a battery affect between 2 dissimilar metals that will actually weld them together) between the 2 parts.
    Toughsox likes this.
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
    '82 314 w/rear PTO for tiller
    33 tiller
    49 thrower
    54 4 way blade
    Mod 48 deck & Mod 462 TracVac

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    Mudrig150's Avatar
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    I got the flywheel off, yay!!!!

    It was just...loose. Like I lifted it and it didn't even pop, just slid off.
    Huh.
    Oh, and I figured out why it was so stubborn. The keyway must've been worn, so they filled it with welds and welded the key in...? Another thing to add to the Journal of Destruction™.

    So I got the crank out and decided to test fit a rod with horribly worn end (probably .30 out of spec), and it was tight on the shaft. As in literally no rotation on the journal. So they used too big of an insert. That explains why it threw another rod.

    But hey, the block and skirt are perfectly fine! A little sludged up, but fine either way. Good.
    Also I do believe it's well within spec. I shoved the rod in and it fits nice and tight. Also good.
    Crank teeth on the donor crank are fine, so are the camshaft teeth. Also good!
    Governor seems fine. Every part is pretty much usable, except the rod and crank, of course.
    Toughsox likes this.
    1982 John deere 317, powered by Kohler Magnum 18
    1969 John deere 140 "One eyed Larry", powered by Kohler K241, H2 hydraulics
    1963 Burns B-60 Suburban, serial 1328

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    I'm glad to hear you've got some good news! With all of the extra parts you have, you've got a crank & rod(s) ? Bob
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
    '82 314 w/rear PTO for tiller
    33 tiller
    49 thrower
    54 4 way blade
    Mod 48 deck & Mod 462 TracVac

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    Mudrig150's Avatar
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    Yep. A 140 crank and rod and I'm using the flywheel from the 214 motor.
    1982 John deere 317, powered by Kohler Magnum 18
    1969 John deere 140 "One eyed Larry", powered by Kohler K241, H2 hydraulics
    1963 Burns B-60 Suburban, serial 1328

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    Mudrig150's Avatar
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    Yep. We have a crank and rod from a 140 motor we tore down, I'll be using it plus the newish 214 piston head and wrist pin. NO play in it.
    1982 John deere 317, powered by Kohler Magnum 18
    1969 John deere 140 "One eyed Larry", powered by Kohler K241, H2 hydraulics
    1963 Burns B-60 Suburban, serial 1328

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