My new 1969 140 H1
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 17
Like Tree10Likes

Thread: My new 1969 140 H1

  1. Top | #1
    Mudrig150's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Last Online
    Today @ 01:01 PM
    Posts
    119
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts

    My new 1969 140 H1

    So I've been searching for 4 whole years for a 140, and after getting the offer to pick this one up, I just HAD to jump on it. We got it on Friday, just before another buyer came on Sunday to pick it up. We ended up bringing it home, along with a set of 212 side panels and a 300 carcass. We of course forgot our straps and had only one to strap down: The 140s hood, 212 side panels, 300 fenders, 140 fuel tank, 140, and the 300. We managed to get home safely and nothing was lost.

    The 140 needs a new back tire, a motor, a new steering column, battery tray, and all the electrical. The hood is just sitting on the frame for now, but planning to have it mounted in the future. Luckily for me it sat in the original owner's sunroom after the motor went out but after 15 or so years of sitting in there he had to sell it, after which it sat outside under a tree, exposed to the sun. Luckily we got it only shortly after. The 140 is pretty much mint, having only faded paint, and a little bit of rust. All the dash components are either in bad shape or missing so everything's getting replaced. The paint IS original, just faded from sitting under a glass roof, and the rust is just from the battery and the little bit of sitting outside it did. The hood only has one crack on the front and a tiny chunk missing, and headlight panel has been impaled, but the rubber ring and wiring is still there. Other than that, this thing is completely unmolested.


    The 300 is donating its H1.5 (there's 2 handles but only one set of front lines; there was a diverter valve), its steering, some of its hydro linkage parts, and the hydraulic caps. There isn't much other than that, but I am selling the mint dash on it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20190518-131906.jpg 20190518-131900.jpg 20190518-140826.jpg 20190518-135414.jpg 20190518-143146.jpg

    20190518-143436.jpg
    1982 John deere 317, Magnum 18
    1969 140 H1
    1977 John deere 2101963 Burns B-60 Suburban

  2. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. Top | #2

    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Last Online
    Today @ 12:23 PM
    Location
    Southern Maine
    Posts
    7,574
    Thanks
    602
    Thanked 713 Times in 600 Posts
    It looks decent, but I donít think your mix and match plans will work without lots of custom fabrication.

    The 69 should have a older type hydro with a completely different linkage than the 300.

  4. Top | #3
    Mudrig150's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Last Online
    Today @ 01:01 PM
    Posts
    119
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
    Hydro linkage is going in 317. Steering and H2 are going in 140.
    1982 John deere 317, Magnum 18
    1969 140 H1
    1977 John deere 2101963 Burns B-60 Suburban

  5. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. Top | #4

    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Last Online
    Today @ 12:23 PM
    Location
    Southern Maine
    Posts
    7,574
    Thanks
    602
    Thanked 713 Times in 600 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Mudrig150 View Post
    Hydro linkage is going in 317. Steering and H2 are going in 140.
    Youíll still need to cut the tower to install the h2 levers, weld up a mount for the valve, and pray that the hydraulic lines fit.

    Steering...I donít know if the columns are the same length. You should be able to swap internals atleast as the gears do rotate the same way.

  7. Top | #5
    Mudrig150's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Last Online
    Today @ 01:01 PM
    Posts
    119
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by rydplrs View Post
    Youíll still need to cut the tower to install the h2 levers, weld up a mount for the valve, and pray that the hydraulic lines fit.

    Steering...I donít know if the columns are the same length. You should be able to swap internals atleast as the gears do rotate the same way.
    What????
    The tower is the exact same. The H1, H2, and H3 all used the same setup and size for the outside handle, and the other handles mount inside the outside handle. It's the later ones that have a different style of handle. In fact, my brother put 300 H2 handles in his 140 just fine.
    The valve would mount fine as the frame is predrilled for an H1, 2, or 3 valve. It's got 4 holes, one stays in the same place and the other 3 move with the size of the valve. The second set of H2 front lines mount to the same place as on H3, it's just the rockshaft cylinder lines move.
    The steering columns mount in the same place, and have the same length. The problem with mine is the stud is siezed solid in the case and when they tried to break it loose it snapped off.

    So overall, no modifications are needed to mount the steering and H2.
    1982 John deere 317, Magnum 18
    1969 140 H1
    1977 John deere 2101963 Burns B-60 Suburban

  8. Top | #6

    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Last Online
    Today @ 12:23 PM
    Location
    Southern Maine
    Posts
    7,574
    Thanks
    602
    Thanked 713 Times in 600 Posts
    Ok. Have fun
    MDrew likes this.

  9. Top | #7
    Mudrig150's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Last Online
    Today @ 01:01 PM
    Posts
    119
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
    So I took the steering column out of the 140 by just unbolting it then disassembling it from the bottom, then knocking the shaft out from the top. I tried putting the 300 column in but apparently the pittman arm nut is larger and it won't fit through the small hole in the column. I'm just saying screw and I'm just going to put a bearing and spacer in to replace the inside bolt and put the column in.
    Because I can't currently fix the steering, I tried to take the H1 out to put the H2 in but that was a no go, the lines are all stuck together and I couldn't unscrew the bolts because the lines just wanted to twist with the bolts. The one line I found is nice and bent up from the PO trying to literally steal everything, wiring, hydraulics, engine, etc.
    I then decided that, since i can't do anything i wanted to, I was just going to clean the tractor off. I was pleasantly surprised by the fact that the paint isn't faded, it's just got this white film of what I assume to be tree sap on it. This thing cleaned up nice, save for the hood, which has been repainted because all the paint's missing off the front.
    1982 John deere 317, Magnum 18
    1969 140 H1
    1977 John deere 2101963 Burns B-60 Suburban

  10. Top | #8
    Mudrig150's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Last Online
    Today @ 01:01 PM
    Posts
    119
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
    So I haven't worked much on One eyed larry, I've just been working on the 317. I still need to find a motor for Ol larry. Sigh...
    BigJim55 likes this.
    1982 John deere 317, Magnum 18
    1969 140 H1
    1977 John deere 2101963 Burns B-60 Suburban

  11. Top | #9
    Mudrig150's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Last Online
    Today @ 01:01 PM
    Posts
    119
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
    So I think the 140 is finally going to get a motor after being a parts tractor for almost 22 years. I'm going to transplant the K241 from my 210 into it, and I'm thinking of just cutting off the hydraulic system so I can run it without them, especially with the H2 swap got stuck halfway done. How should I connect the 2 hydraulic ports together to run the tractor without hydraulics?
    1982 John deere 317, Magnum 18
    1969 140 H1
    1977 John deere 2101963 Burns B-60 Suburban

  12. Top | #10

    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Last Online
    Today @ 01:37 PM
    Location
    Athens, TN
    Posts
    362
    Thanks
    28
    Thanked 83 Times in 67 Posts
    Connecting ports together will not be difficult. Do it right at the hydro. Remove top line, bottom line, and install a hose! BUT You NEED TO KNOW fitting size & configuration!!! Look through JD parts catalog for the fittings. They are serial number specific, don't know, so have you serial number handy. I think (???) they're o-ring boss fittings. Bob
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
    '82 314 w/rear PTO for tiller
    33 tiller
    49 thrower
    54 4 way blade
    Mod 48 deck & Mod 462 TracVac

  13. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. 1969 JD 140 H 3- bolt and cone (steering) help needed.
    By wpod in forum Vintage Lawn & Garden Tractors
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 08-16-2017, 08:29 AM
  2. Replies: 1
    Last Post: 12-09-2016, 11:25 PM
  3. 1968 JD 140 H1 just getting started
    By flyguy784 in forum Vintage Lawn & Garden Tractors
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 04-11-2016, 08:55 AM
  4. Proud new dad of a 1969 140, Pa
    By flyguy784 in forum New Member Introductions
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 11-16-2015, 07:48 AM
  5. Bushings for H1 & H3 levers?
    By oleboy140 in forum Vintage Lawn & Garden Tractors
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 07-13-2015, 07:41 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts