John deere 110 SF, 112 SF, 120, 140, 300, 312, 316K full steering upgrade
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Thread: John deere 110 SF, 112 SF, 120, 140, 300, 312, 316K full steering upgrade

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    Mudrig150's Avatar
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    John deere 110 SF, 112 SF, 120, 140, 300, 312, 316K full steering upgrade

    So, I'm finally tired of my 140's crooked steering, and I think a lot of people are. From center, the steering is like this:
    To full lock left: Normal 140 is about 2 turns, Larry is 2 1/2 turns.
    To full lock right: Normal 140 is about 1 1/2, Larry is 1 turn.
    The steering is 1/2 turn of the wheel off, which is AWFUL.

    My fixes and upgrades:
    -Replace all tie rod ends with greasable ball joints
    -Replace the non-adjustable drag link with threaded rod and 2 ball joints
    -Thrust bearing for steering box

    That's about it. With the current upgrades, it would steer easier, wear less, and allow for more steering adjustment freedom, so you can get rid of the pesky lopsided steering.

    Prices (mcmaster-carr):
    Ball joint with grease fitting, right hand thread, 7.59$ each, 4 needed
    Ball joint with grease fitting, left hand thread, 7.59$ each, 2 needed
    One piece steel thrust ball bearing, 5/8" shaft diameter, 19.93$ each, 1 needed for 110, 112, 120, 140
    One piece steel thrust ball bearing, 3/4" shaft diameter, 19.93$ each, 1 needed for 300, 312, 316K
    Ball joint rod end seals, 1/2" hole diameter, 5.62$ pair, 6 pairs needed, 1 for each ball joint end

    So far, the upgrade is looking to be about 100$, but that's not including the threaded rod.

    I do have one question, how long is the drag link for the 140? I need to figure out how long of threaded rod is needed for the drag link.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails John deere 120, 140, 300, 316K, 312 steering upgrade.jpg
    Last edited by Mudrig150; 10-04-2019 at 09:57 AM.
    1982 John deere 317, powered by Kohler Magnum 18
    1969 John deere 140 "One eyed Larry", powered by Kohler K241, H2 hydraulics
    1963 Burns B-60 Suburban, serial 1328

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    If your steering is crooked all you need to do to center it is adjust the drag link.

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    Mudrig150's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rydplrs View Post
    If your steering is crooked all you need to do to center it is adjust the drag link.
    That's why I'm asking about the length of the drag link. It's non-adjustable. That's the problem. Mine is a bit wore out which is probably a contributor to the crooked steering.
    1982 John deere 317, powered by Kohler Magnum 18
    1969 John deere 140 "One eyed Larry", powered by Kohler K241, H2 hydraulics
    1963 Burns B-60 Suburban, serial 1328

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    Mudrig, Remove Pitman arm from steering box, center steering wheel (lock to lock), re-attach steering arm. Also, there's a fair amount of pressure exerted on your drag link. If you still end up replacing that, get heat treated threaded rod. Heat with torch to bend and try to slow cool...bury in a box of sand! Bob
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
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    Mudrig150's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rwmeyer View Post
    Mudrig, Remove Pitman arm from steering box, center steering wheel (lock to lock), re-attach steering arm. Also, there's a fair amount of pressure exerted on your drag link. If you still end up replacing that, get heat treated threaded rod. Heat with torch to bend and try to slow cool...bury in a box of sand! Bob
    I tried adjusting it that way. Doing it like that is just the equivalent of just turning the steering wheel. You have to adjust the drag link to get any sort of effect, and on the early closed frames adjusting anything except the toe is impossible.
    1982 John deere 317, powered by Kohler Magnum 18
    1969 John deere 140 "One eyed Larry", powered by Kohler K241, H2 hydraulics
    1963 Burns B-60 Suburban, serial 1328

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    Ok, if your drag link isnít adjustable then center your steering wheel and adjust both tie rods until the wheels are actually straight.


    Slop in steering is independent of centering.

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    Mudrig150's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rydplrs View Post
    Ok, if your drag link isnít adjustable then center your steering wheel and adjust both tie rods until the wheels are actually straight.


    Slop in steering is independent of centering.
    I don't think there is enough adjustment there. I mean, there are almost no threads left to center the steering. Plus I want easy steering.
    1982 John deere 317, powered by Kohler Magnum 18
    1969 John deere 140 "One eyed Larry", powered by Kohler K241, H2 hydraulics
    1963 Burns B-60 Suburban, serial 1328

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mudrig150 View Post
    I don't think there is enough adjustment there. I mean, there are almost no threads left to center the steering. Plus I want easy steering.
    Easy steering has nothing to do with your alignment/steering center just like slop is not related.

    If your tierods donít have enough adjustment to center the steering and the drag link is not adjustable then something in the steering is bent, or not the correct part.

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    Mudrig150's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rydplrs View Post
    Easy steering has nothing to do with your alignment/steering center just like slop is not related.

    If your tierods don’t have enough adjustment to center the steering and the drag link is not adjustable then something in the steering is bent, or not the correct part.
    Cub cadet pitman arm on a deere steering box is probably not helping. I mean, we do have 4 tractors that need fixed steering.

    Question, how long is the drag link for the steering?
    1982 John deere 317, powered by Kohler Magnum 18
    1969 John deere 140 "One eyed Larry", powered by Kohler K241, H2 hydraulics
    1963 Burns B-60 Suburban, serial 1328

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    No clue how long the one you need is. It wonít be the same as stock.

    Good luck

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