New JD F680 owner and can’t get it it start
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    New JD F680 owner and can’t get it it start

    I recently purchased a house and a JD F680 came with it. I’m not sure how old it is but it has 680 hours on it. It doesn’t look like it was taken care of very well. Anyway, I’ve mowed with it about 4 times now and usually have to attempt to crank it a few times before it starts. The most recent time, it wouldn’t even make a noise when I turned the key. I jumped it with my truck and ran it for about 5 minutes till I had to pee so I jumped off of it forgetting to disengage the blades so it shut off. Put everything back to the starting position and tried cranking it but again not even a sound. Tried jumping it with my truck again but still not even a sound. I bought a new batter and that did nothing. Tried some research and tried the solenoid and screwdriver trick but all that does is get something to start spinning. As you can tell I’m not familiar with this stuff so any ideas on what I could do next?

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    It sounds like your issue may be related to one of the saftey features. The seat switch, the brake switch, and/or the PTO is sending an engaged signal. If the machine doesnt sense an operator in the seat, sense the brake being fully depressed, or thinks the PTO is engaged, it will respond as mentioned.

    Just my 2 cents, I am no expoert just trying to trouble shoot.
    Last edited by Swazimotto; 09-25-2019 at 11:07 AM.
    On my 2nd JD Tractor. 2018 x739 w/ 47" Snowthrower, 54" HC deck, 14 BU MCS, 48" Dethatcher (Hydraulic), CTC FEL.

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    I appreciate the response. When I mess with the PTO switch I get a clicking noise. I had to use my push mower for two acres and let’s just say I don’t want to do that again

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    fdmars's Avatar
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    Check connections for battery ground and to starter
    SulleyBear likes this.
    2009 JD 2305 w/ Femco folding ROPS,Power Beyond Kit, KBOH, 54"MMM, 47" Snowblower, 200CX Loader w/ BB, Powerhorse 12 ton Logsplitter and King Kutter tool carrier and 17P kart
    2009 Cub Cadet/Yanmar ex3200, Land Pride 60” land plane and 60” finish mower, worksaver posthole digger w/ 9” auger, “The thumb” add on grapple, third function valve and KBOH of course

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    You need to go and remove the PTP switch and clean it....check the wiring from the PTO switch and the PTO clutch. This all happen when you failed to turn off the PTO before leaving the seat.
    The PTO switch is bad and you helped it going out by leaving the seat without shutting down the PTO.
    Last edited by kbeaag; 09-26-2019 at 01:22 PM.
    SulleyBear likes this.

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    SulleyBear's Avatar
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    Do yourself a favor and spend $25 and buy a battery load tester. Not just a volt meter, a battery load tester provides several very helpful pieces of information for any 12 volt machine. It tells you if the battery is shot, which it likely is in the mower. It also tells you if the charging system is not putting out the proper voltage to keep the battery charged.

    All you have to do is connect this to the battery on any 12 volt machine (also some 6 volt machines, not that you likely have any) and read the meter. Once on the battery, you push and hold the load switch for several seconds and it tells you the strength and health of the battery.

    Leave it connected to the battery when the machine is running and it will tell you the charging system output. That's a lot of helpful information which solves most problems with these machines related to starting and electrical difficulties.
    Here is a very good battery load tester (its the one I own and use) which will get the job done. You can also get them at Harbor Freight, etc. for around the $20 point.

    Make sure its a battery LOAD TESTER, not just a volt meter. We have people all of the time here on GTT tell us their battery shows 12 volts with a volt meter but won't start their machine. EVERY SINGLE TIME, these batteries FAIL a load test. If you own equipment with 12 volt systems, you won't regret owning this low cost and very helpful tool. By the way, the similar unit at Harbor Freight is $19.95 as shown in the above link.

    I also agree with the prior poster about checking your PTO switch as there are very few coincidences with these machines. Make sure the PTO switch is turned off and the seat switch and other safety devices working. Since you are new to all of this, PLEASE resist the temptation to bypass these safety switches. It's better to have the mower stop when you exit it with the blades turning or have the engine stall when you leave the seat without setting the parking brake. It very well could prevent a tragedy from occurring......and the feet, toes or life you save very well could be your own...........

    Please make sure to post back and tell us how you fixed your issue with the mower so your thread can help someone else in the future. Thanks



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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SulleyBear View Post
    Do yourself a favor and spend $25 and buy a battery load tester. Not just a volt meter, a battery load tester provides several very helpful pieces of information for any 12 volt machine. It tells you if the battery is shot, which it likely is in the mower. It also tells you if the charging system is not putting out the proper voltage to keep the battery charged.
    The OP stated that he already bought a new battery.
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    The most common no crank on these units is the switches on the steering handles. They must be pushed outward and in the neutral position, in the slots, PTO off.
    FYI.. The seat switch is NOT in the crank circuit. The machine can start and run IF the handles are in neutral and park brake set. After that the operator must be in the seat if the brake is released. Also the engine will shut off if the handles are moved inward with the brake set.
    So.. In short.. PTO off, brake set, handles outward and in neutral.
    Could be a safety switch, could be a battery/relay, could be a starter.

    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
    Last edited by xcopterdoc; 09-27-2019 at 07:18 PM.

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    I recently had a similar situation with my JD 4400. Tried to start and would give one hard click and then everything dead. I searched up and down for the culprit and it ended up being the clamps for the battery posts. I replaced the battery clamps and cleaned up the ground on the negative and resolved the issue.

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    I appreciate everyone’s responses. I’ve traced all the wiring and to my untrained eye everything looks to be in place and nothing shredded or bare wire exposed. I guess my next step is to get a professional to look at it.

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