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Just picked up a '00 Z71 ext cab for cheap and need some ideas about some inexpensive restorations. Mainly Rust! Mechanically truck is good. 5.3, push button 4x4, good tranny, tow package etc. great interior , no smoke, no leaks 160k mi.
The rear bumper is completely rusted through, around wheel wells, rockers gone. I can almost live w/ the rockers, but is there any suggestions on rear bumper, short of buying a new one? Does the bumper affect the integrity of the box hitch? Are fender flares a option to cover wheel wells? Also one of the rear doors does not open, drivers side rear. The handle in door jam is missing, but I can move lever, but still feels stuck at bottom. Inside handle same thing. Is there a connecting rod to lift the bottom latch? The muffler is also rusted through near end, but before and after pipes look good. Anyone able to get these pipes off w/o too much trouble? Thanks for any advice or tips.


 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks
 

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Yup, no worries. You can post links here as long as it's beneficial to the members and it's not a link to a personal business.
 

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Just picked up a '00 Z71 ext cab for cheap and need some ideas about some inexpensive restorations. Mainly Rust! Mechanically truck is good. 5.3, push button 4x4, good tranny, tow package etc. great interior , no smoke, no leaks 160k mi.
The rear bumper is completely rusted through, around wheel wells, rockers gone. I can almost live w/ the rockers, but is there any suggestions on rear bumper, short of buying a new one? Does the bumper affect the integrity of the box hitch? Are fender flares a option to cover wheel wells? Also one of the rear doors does not open, drivers side rear. The handle in door jam is missing, but I can move lever, but still feels stuck at bottom. Inside handle same thing. Is there a connecting rod to lift the bottom latch? The muffler is also rusted through near end, but before and after pipes look good. Anyone able to get these pipes off w/o too much trouble? Thanks for any advice or tips.


Nice looking truck. How is the frame rust-wise? A few years ago I bought a '99 Silverado just like yours. It was a gorgeous truck, leather interior etc, and no rust on the body. However when I brought it to my mechanic to check out, he found that the frame was almost rusted through. He told me that there was no way it should have passed inspection. But it had passed, so I ended up getting my money back.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The frame is rusty, but appears to be surface with nothing rusted through. I did find a connecting bolt rusted through on one side of front stabilizer bar. I replaced that for $12. I may just do the other side as a preventive. All the brake rotors, calipers and brake lines have been replaced already according to receipts.
Brakes work fine but there is a ABS light on. I see in paperwork there was a recall on that, and dealer had repaired, what looked like twice? Previous owner said he had another issue with abs and unplugged something ? I'll be evaluating that at some point as well as installing trailer brake controller.
Once I figure out my plan of attack, I'll be spraying everything under this truck to try and stop and help prevent further rusting. I was told by PO that most rust came from leaving parked on gravel drive? I'm sure it didn't help, but can't really blame all on that.More likely Ohio winters.
 

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I bought this one from a neighbor down the street, 2 years ago. He bought it new, ...and hardly used it. He and his wife have 2 other cars, and this was used for occasional yard cleanup. 20,000 miles, and the undercarriage looks like it just rolled out of the showroom. In fact, the whole truck looks that way. He was going to trade it on a new Escalade, and the dealer wasn't giving him anything for it, so he decided to offer it to someone he knew, for the same.

I put new tires on it, just because the originals were 15 years old. :laugh: It's been a good truck.

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2000 Sierra SLT-1.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Wow! Very nice & lucky find. Id do dome rust preventive on it now and keep the water drains open. Is that a '04? Really nice to see one in that condition. ;)
 

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Wow! Very nice & lucky find. Id do dome rust preventive on it now and keep the water drains open. Is that a '04? Really nice to see one in that condition. ;)
Thanks, yes it's a clean one. It's a 2000 model year. Haven't done the rust preventer on the undercarriage, as I thought that stuff could trap moisture under it, and cause more corrosion than it stops. Can you recomend something?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Zbart is a good one if there's any near you. If not of check around to find one that specializes it rustproofing, not just a side line.
Even more amazing it's a 2000 with no rust. Where you at? Arizona? That's a rare find you have there, rust is coming though, so plan accordingly now before. That's only 1250 mi a year. Just enough to barely keep the fluids circulated. With the work I've done so far, window regulator part , tax & title just under $1600 invested. So I can't complain too much.
Ps, I'd look into a either a spray in bed liner or a traditional type. You could pretreat the seams with grease or something? There's not really a way for water to get under them unless traditional liner gets a hole or high pressure water around tops. Aluminum toppers that clamp on are nice too, depending what you're hauling and light enough to easily take off.
 

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That's not bad at all, and it should last you a good while. I'll look into that Zbart rustproofing you mentioned. Definitely a long way from Arizona... in fact, I'm in Delaware, not all that far from the coast. Mine still shows no signs of rust, anywhere on the body or undercarriage, but I'll look into doing something.

Best of luck with your's :thumbup1gif:
 

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In regard to the rear fenders, I did the fender flares on my 96 Silverado.
http://www.amazon.com/Bushwacker-Chevrolet-Style-Fender-Flare/dp/B00017YYJK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462538884&sr=8-2&keywords=Bushwacker+Chevrolet+%2F+GMC+OE+Style+Fender+Flare+Set+of+4

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I did use rust converter before I installed the new flares.

I also put new rockers and cab corners on(brazed). That was not so much fun. I didn't do the full rocker removal. Cut the flange off of the new rockers and brazed them on so the seam would be under the door weatherstripping.

Did all that back in 2012 and must say it's held up pretty well and the truck is driven (200K miles) and parked outside.
 

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I found these for $108 wondering if they would do the job?
https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/301393276979
Not sure I want to tackle the rockers
He's sold over 500 of them and that's a great price plus he's got good reviews. So I'd say go for it. :bigthumb:

I don't know what condition your inner flanges of your fenders are like but I forgot to mention earlier you need them to be mostly intact. I had a couple rust throughs where a couple attaching screws needed to go but was able to drill a new hole in the flare and put the screw there.
 

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Oh, speaking of rust, here's a pic of my rear leaf spring u-bolts and shocks I replaced a few years ago.
IMG_1365.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Oh, speaking of rust, here's a pic of my rear leaf spring u-bolts and shocks I replaced a few years ago.
View attachment 175162
That pretty bad. The shocks have been replaced thankfully. I'll be checking the leaf spring u bolts. Was that big of a job to replace? Did you place a jack under spring to lift into place? I'm always a little nervous and cautious working with springs.
 

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Hello Tnman
I had a '98 with some of the same problems you have. I replaced the bumper with an aftermarket. Westin, I think. It was a heck of a lot cheaper than OEM for sure. Quality wasn't the same, but at least it looked decent again. The OEM was near 700.00 and the Westin was a bit over 300.
Your door problem could be a real doozy to fix. In my case anyway. From not using the doors enough (mine only had one door) and not enough lubrication the latch can corrode to the point of not being able to unlatch. Mine was so bad, I had to take the door panel apart and get a cutoff wheel down inside the door to cut the latch apart. If you find that is your problem, you may be able to let it soak in rust remover for a few days and get luckier than me.

As for the muffler, isn't there a flange plate in the front? Not sure what yours looks like as the '98 had dual exhaust that flanged into the muffler and one outlet for tailpipe.
 

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That pretty bad. The shocks have been replaced thankfully. I'll be checking the leaf spring u bolts. Was that big of a job to replace? Did you place a jack under spring to lift into place? I'm always a little nervous and cautious working with springs.
No jack needed. Unlike most cars, the majority of truck leaf springs are on top of the axles so the truck weight rests on top of the springs. As you can see in the pics, three of the 4 ends broke off. The fourth (and last of course :banghead:) one would not break and had to be unthreaded the whole way. Brake line was too close for me to comfortably torch that one off. I will say that one end broke off without much consequence but the opposing side would sound like a shotgun going off when it broke. No violent downward pressure though.

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This is not mine. Internet photo. It is the same setup as mine though.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I should be able to tell what's going with door once panels off. I think the whole truck needs to soak in rust remover.:) from what I noticed its single exhaust. The pipes in front and behind muffler appear to be stainless steel as is listed on original window sticker.
Getting ready to tackle the window regulator today.
 
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