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05 3720 instrument panel?

8.5K views 31 replies 5 participants last post by  Dave in DE  
#1 ·
Went to fire up my 3720 today and the tach did its normal full sweep but only part way returned. The tip of the needle appears to be contacting the face of the tach at the top. Looks like the face top has warped outward.
Has anyone ever had this happen?
Can the cluster be opened?
If I have to replace it is it just a swap out? Or will it need programing?
 
#2 ·
Are you SURE the battery is in good shape?

Sorry can't answer about a repair or replacement.
 
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#3 ·
Thanks Kenny,
Yes, battery is new. Dealer installed the day I bought tractor. We went out to start it after they serviced and battery was dead. So salesman called service to bring out a battery.
Tach has been ok, but Temps have been 60's/70's. Today Temps in low 40's. It appears by looking from side needle is dragging on face at top.
 
#5 ·
From the service manual (I have a 3520), the instrument cluster seems to be one piece. Oddly, I was about to post a question on the instrument cluster tachometer myself. Mine is sticking at approx 1000rpm (I don't remember if it goes all the way on start), the 325C wire seems to be intact and ground speed is working, which leads me to believe it is the tachometer itself...the cluster is approximately $600 just for the cluster, so unless I can figure something else out, I am thinking that I will use a paint stick to draw a line on the throttle control until something else goes out.
 
#7 ·
Went to fire up my 3720 today and the tach did its normal full sweep but only part way returned. The tip of the needle appears to be contacting the face of the tach at the top. Looks like the face top has warped outward.
Has anyone ever had this happen?
Can the cluster be opened?
If I have to replace it is it just a swap out? Or will it need programing?
I can only help with the last question. After replacement It definitely needs to be setup by the dealer for it to communicate with the other computer modules.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Update:
For future reference, the face of the instrument cluster has come loose from the cluster itself. The top edge is curling out so the tach needle hits at the top. Today I took the instrument panel out and took a BIG chance and carefully removed the glass face cover.(See pics) After I carefully washed it to get years of dirt off outside edge. Keeping back dry due to it being open with wires now disconnected. I used a single edge razor to cut the rubber adhesive holding the glass. Going around several times to be sure as much as possible was cut through. Easing upward as I cut and eventually the glass was off. I cleaned the edge of panel and glass completely of old adhesive. I pushed the face back down and it stuck. To secure it in place I put 4 beads of blk silicone so it can't curl up again. Tomorrow I'll hold the the glass in place and glue it back on with 3m windshield adhesive. Once that sets it should be as good as new. I could replace for $700+ and did find programing procedures in service manual for replacing with new. Figured to try fixing first.
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Glass removed
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Notice top and bottom of face warped upward.
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Notice 4 beads blk silicone top and bottom of face.
 
#12 ·
While I had the instrument cluster and all cowling removed I decided to do some major clean up work before closing things up. Got the instrument cluster back together. it's looking good. Also adding a headlight power wire to go up the ROPs. This way I'll have my light bar on with the flasher and headlights as opposed to only with rear work lights. Pics of before and after clean up and instrument cluster.
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Before
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After
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#16 ·
Got it all back together this morning. Fired it up all is well, except I have 4 error codes 61,63,65,67. All having to do with flasher and taillight bulbs not working. Although all are fine. I did change those bulbs to LED for a brighter bulb output. Wondering if there not compatible for computer? 🤔.
Any thoughts?
How do I answer and clear codes?
 
#17 ·
The 'puter uses the "load" or resistance of the incandescent bulbs to see if they are good, so when you change them to LED's you have to put resistors in to add the load back to the circuit.

Just an example of what you may need:

 
#19 ·
Finally, my fall catch up work on my 3720 is done. Dash all back, front axle seals/brgs, added light bar and work lights, added muds customs front tie downs, changed oil/filter, new front sneekers, buffed the hood out, and Finally a coat of ceramic sealer. The hood had gotten quite gray on top due to getting to much sun this summer.
Oh, and put loader back on. Easy peasy!
Will buff up fenders and repaint exhaust later.
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#20 ·
@Dave in DE , you're not THAT far away from me if you want to clean up mine too....just sayin' 😂
 
#22 ·
#23 ·
Can I bring my 3520 over to Kenny's shop and have you clean it up too, Dave???

I'll even bring ribs and charcoal. I'm sure I could twist Kenny's arm to let me use his Egg! :)
 
#25 ·
I've got to admit she did clean up nicely.

My Dad always told me if going to do a job, do it right the first time. 🙄 don't waste time nor money having to repeat.

Just finished glass beading the exhaust stack and repainting with flat blk header paint. About to start removing rear fenders to clean and polish them.
 
#27 ·
Actually I needed to remove the right fender to get at the rockshaft controls to snug them up a bit. Controls won't stay where you put them. Also the loader joystick is a bit sticky so I want to clean and lube it. So I figured to polish it then. With as easy as it came off figured what the heck do both.