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Discussion Starter #1
One are where I feel JD really screwed the pooch on the 1-series is with the transport height of the MMM deck. The 1-series I have observed seem to barely be able to get the deck off the ground even when transporting. This is especially true when using the mechanical lift arms attached to the 3PH.

I have seen 1-series with the 3PH all the way up and the deck is still all but touching the ground. This makes it pretty much mandatory that you remove the deck prior to doing any dirt work.

Kubota seems to have done a much better job with their advertised 6" ground clearance on the MMM deck.

 

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I have seen 1-series with the 3PH all the way up and the deck is still all but touching the ground. This makes it pretty much mandatory that you remove the deck prior to doing any dirt work.
Just to add, it also only takes 30 seconds to remove the auto connect deck, mine goes on to mow and then comes right back off. Sounds like Kabota trying to compensate for the lack of ease of removal.
 

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It also goes back to setup. My 60” deck on my 1025r has 5” clearance when in the lock position. I do have the independent lift on mine. I do remove the mower when doing any heavy loader work. It’s just so simple to do it why leave it on.


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Just to add, it also only takes 30 seconds to remove the auto connect deck, mine goes on to mow and then comes right back off. Sounds like Kabota trying to compensate for the lack of ease of removal.
Same here. Mowed my 5ish acre field Saturday evening. Removed bucket and box blade (no quick hitch) and installed the mower in less than 5 minutes. Repeated backwards when done. I never have the mower attached when not mowing. I like to run wide open and bounce around too much without it getting in the way. Plus the tractor looks more pimp without the belly mower hanging there.

2018 1025R, 120R Loader, 60D MMM, BB2048, RC2048
 

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Yup, what all they all said above me...why need ground clearance when the mower is so easy to remove. I don't have a MMM, but if I did and spent the $$ on it, no way would I have it on the tractor when doing any other ground work.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Just to add, it also only takes 30 seconds to remove the auto connect deck, mine goes on to mow and then comes right back off. Sounds like Kabota trying to compensate for the lack of ease of removal.
I think their new drive-over deck is a lot easier to remove. Anyway, I know what you all are saying but on these forums and locally I see a lot of 1-series folks doing loader work with the MMM deck anti-scalp wheels grazing the ground.
 

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I think their new drive-over deck is a lot easier to remove. Anyway, I know what you all are saying but on these forums and locally I see a lot of 1-series folks doing loader work with the MMM deck anti-scalp wheels grazing the ground.
I do too and I get that storage is a big issue for many but it's far too easy to damage something and waaaaaaaaaaaay too easy to remove.
 

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I guess this is an issue for me, but one I've come to just accept. I do find it silly that even in transport, there are a few spots along my driveway that if I drive off into the grass, the deck (not just the gauge wheels) will definitely hit/hang up on the edge of the asphalt due to the change in grade. So I just avoid going off the driveway in those areas. Yes the deck is easy to take off and on. But sometimes, I know what my week ahead is and that it won't involve any seat time between cuttings or so little that it's a waste of time and energy to remove the MMM. You know when I only need to take a FEL full of sticks that fell out of a tree across my lawn to dump them at the edge of the woods. So yes, a higher transport height would be nice, but?????? I would like to see more range in adjustment of the MMM cut height. I seem to have 3 heights: scalp, low enough to be able to tell I mowed, but only for no more than 48 hours afterwards, and transport height.:unknown:


But it's still a great machine!:good2:
 

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I would like to see more range in adjustment of the MMM cut height. I seem to have 3 heights: scalp, low enough to be able to tell I mowed, but only for no more than 48 hours afterwards, and transport height.:unknown:
Seems they've made some vast improvements in 6 years, mine has all of the above mentioned settings but they added a fourth. I also have a setting for flattop, 1-2" in the center but zeroed out on the sides. :lol:
Seriously, for my yard the 54d was a little better than my 60d, just too many quick changes in terrain, but I do like the 60d better despite this.
 

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I'm thinking both of mine are near 5" of clearance, as well. I, too, have "Independent Lift", but that would not make a difference as compared to "Hydraulic" or "Mechanical". Again, I believe this is attributable to setup.

I spent some extra time on just this when setting my decks up, with trial & error adjustments to achieve maximum deck height when in the "Lock" position. Another member posted a while back that he adjusted his deck by allowing it to sit flat on the ground, with the gauge wheels released, and then adjusting the forks, of the rear lift links, so the clevis pins could just be inserted freely. I don't recall how he had adjusted his front draft arm. When checking the blade heights after this, he indicated they were near level across and he had about 5/16" (or thereabouts) of front to rear pitch of the blades.

If I had to do it over again, I'd start with this method and then make whatever adjustments were necessary to level the deck and obtained the correct front to rear pitch.

I, also, added 3/8 fine thread nuts, as jam nuts, to the rear links to prevent their adjustments from being upset. In addition, I labeled each left or right with permanent marker to prevent them from becoming interchanged..
 

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I think their new drive-over deck is a lot easier to remove. Anyway, I know what you all are saying but on these forums and locally I see a lot of 1-series folks doing loader work with the MMM deck anti-scalp wheels grazing the ground.
These decks "could" add quite a bit of CG lowering weight if ballast is on the light side... Loader to mower is so easy it doesn't seem to pay to leave deck on for FEL work. Stamp this one "To Each His Own".:laugh:
 

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I think their new drive-over deck is a lot easier to remove. Anyway, I know what you all are saying but on these forums and locally I see a lot of 1-series folks doing loader work with the MMM deck anti-scalp wheels grazing the ground.
Have you noticed if they also had the 3PH lowered at the time? I take my MMM off if needed. And if I use anything else and have the MMM on I'll lock it in the up position. When I do leave the MMM on while doing other chores then it's because of the ballast it gives me for that time period. My hills is another ball game in the ballast department. That being said, my MMM doesn't graze the ground while in the up position, whether locked or not. Sounds like some haven't set up the MMM right in the first place. I may not have the 6" that Kubota has but I'm not far from it. I'm going to have to check this when I put the MMM back on. Yep, it's off right now as the last job my tractor did was disk my garden. Didn't need the low down ballast but I did need ballast on the front end. Have been known to use the MMM, FEL and the chipper at the same time period so I had all 3 on at the same time. Everything depends on the job.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Have you noticed if they also had the 3PH lowered at the time? I take my MMM off if needed. And if I use anything else and have the MMM on I'll lock it in the up position.
No. The 3PH arms were all the way up.
 

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I've definitely noticed the anti-scalping wheels on the deck scraping when going across my driveway with the deck raised all the way up. I know for a fact my deck is not setup correctly, though since I can't even turn the rockshaft knob to any higher than '3'. Hoping my dealer gets it setup correctly this time or I will need to take a pass at it myself.
 

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When I first got my 1025r (last year) I too was disappointed with the lift height of the deck. When you compare it to the Kubota, you have to take into account the depth of the deck itself. From the photos it looks like the Kubota deck is much shallower, allowing it to be raised farther off the ground. I have no experience with the Kubota, and do not know how well it cuts. I can say my mower deck works great, and if its because the deck is deeper, then I can live with the lower clearance. I will repeat what others have posted, that removing it to do loader work is no big deal.
 

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The 5 inches mine lifts is sufficient. It has separate cylinder under the floor. But if one expects to go off roading and flying thru the field with the mower deck on then they might be a bit disappointed. Face planting the mower deck into the dirt is not one of my intended uses:eating:
 

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I agree with just dropping the deck before doing anything. On a slight tangent, I wish that the MMM had a quick connect mount for the loader. I’ve hung the deck on straps to clean / sharpen, but it’s be cool just to remove the bucket from the loader, then snap the loader arms in and pick the deck up.
 

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I agree with just dropping the deck before doing anything. On a slight tangent, I wish that the MMM had a quick connect mount for the loader. I’ve hung the deck on straps to clean / sharpen, but it’s be cool just to remove the bucket from the loader, then snap the loader arms in and pick the deck up.
Wouldn't that be something! Welding two hooks that match the top of the JDQA might do the trick.
 

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I think their new drive-over deck is a lot easier to remove. Anyway, I know what you all are saying but on these forums and locally I see a lot of 1-series folks doing loader work with the MMM deck anti-scalp wheels grazing the ground.
maybe they don't realize you can adjust the height of those anti scalp wheels???? Mine move up and down quite a bit......and I can sure tell you with the deck up and locked and those wheels up all the way you are going to have as much clearance as you will most likely ever need......
 
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