[Gumbi]

I bought an original dual SCV set up to mount onto my 1020. Looking everything over they look alright with the exception of the QDs which are plugged up with mud, but the valve levers are extremely hard to move. One of them I can't move at all, and the other is extremely stiff. I haven't mounted it up yet to see if anything works. The stiff levers have me worried that I might need to open them up and do a rebuild on them. The tractor they came off of had a stuck motor, so i've no idea how long these have been sitting. How hard is it to rebuild the valves?

Or, would it be better to mount them up to the tractor so they fill up with oil and cycle them a few times and see if/how they operate? Thinking this might be a better route. Mount them, hook up the supply and route the return to a bucket. Im not crazy about routing the returns straight to the tractor and possibly introduce some contaminants to my newly cleaned out transmission. Thoughts?

 

[Kennyd]

There aren't many replaceable parts, but if you can get the spools out they can be carefully polished. Can you post a picture of it?

 

[Gumbi]

There aren't many replaceable parts, but if you can get the spools out they can be carefully polished. Can you post a picture of it?

 

[Tx Jim]

There aren't many replaceable parts, but if you can get the spools out they can be carefully polished. Can you post a picture of it?

Kenny
I know you were thinking ""spool not poppet valves scv"" & I'm not attempting to seem like a smart Alec!! JD utility factory scv's each have 4 poppet valves with rockers that can be difficult to adjust correct clearances especially for the1st time rebuilder & sometimes even subsequent times to rebuild/adjust. IMHO JD engineers went out of there way to make these type & other control valves too complicated. There are 4 set screws that require adjustment after valve reassembly & back when I served as a JD dealer service manager I had several mechanics that didn't get this adjustment correct after several attempts.

 

[Tx Jim]

Gumbi
My suggestion before resorting to disassembly would be to remove covers(key 5) in above photo & spray a good penetrating oil such as PB-blaster or Kroil on the operating parts while moving control levers especially spraying the shafts that go through the rockers(key 19).

 

[Zebrafive]

Gumbi
My suggestion before resorting to disassembly would be to remove covers(key 5) in above photo & spray a good penetrating oil such as PB-blaster or Kroil on the operating parts while moving control levers especially spraying the shafts that go through the rockers(key 19).

Exactly what I was going to suggest. Free them up before putting on your tractor.
If you "split" them, use new O-rings between the two valves. The pair on my 2030 started to leak, it was these O-rings that failed.
I use one for my grapple, I love the detent for both open and close of the grapple cylinders.
If you have the ported transmission filter cover, I would recommend the "return to filter" kit.

 

[Tx Jim]

Zebfafive
I think scv oil returning to ported filter cover is important in high gpm usage such as operating a orbit motor but for normal 8'' stroke cylinder operation is a waste of $$$$. Hose on ported filter cover will make it more difficult to change hyd filter & get seal correctly in place.

 

[Zebrafive]

Mine came with the return to filter cover kit. Maybe it once had a loader connected to the rear SCVs? When I bought, they said they had a JD 175 loader for it, if I wanted to add it.
It made adding my 245 loader with mid valve easy. All I had to buy were two tees, one for pressure and one for return.

 

[Tx Jim]

Z5
If one operates a FEL the hyd return definitely needs to go to hyd filter ported filter cover similar to your 2030.

 

[jd110]

In the area between the two valve bodies is a small pocket that is prone to dirt and moisture to collect and cause the operating shaft to rust tight. See diagram. Try cleaning out that little pocket with a small pick and compressed air. Then soak that pocket with penetrating oil to help free up the shafts. Unfortunately, many times I have seen the shaft rusted so badly that you end up with an oil leak in that area due to shaft pitting around oring sealing area. If leak occurs after freeing up and operating, the shaft can be replaced without entire disassembly of all the valves if everything else works properly.

 

[Gumbi]

Thanks, guy's I'll take a look with those suggestions. I don't think Im going to get around to mounting all of this up too soon. I will post back if I have any further questions.