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3 weeks and counting till my 1023 comes in so I figure, sure why not post another question?!.. Do you guys use the deck wash system?.. I assume the 54" and 60" decks have it do they not?.. Just seems wrong to force water in and around the spindles.. Rust or other corrosion issues.. Or is it no big deal?..
 

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I never used it. :unknown:
 

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I never used it. :unknown:
Nuff' said diesel.. I doubt I'll use it either.. Just askin'.. Seems gimmicky and I can't imagine how it could possibly do a good job.. Considering how easy the drive over deck is to remove. A scraper and 10 mins every two or three cuts seems like the only logical way to go.. Don't really understand why they even offer it..
 

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Nope don't use it, I did try it on someones , didn't seem to work so didn't even try it on the new 60" ... At the end of the season , try to remove the majority of grass if not all right then by scraping ,grinding disk or just soaking and washing the grass off. Over the months will clean it up down to bare metal or paint , remove blades before cleaning under side, sharpen them ,spray a primer then coat or two of paint, reattach the blades , deck back down remove all shields clean and wash the top ,grease all fittings ready to mow sometime in Feb or March at the latest. Then some time in April will put the deck back on ,ready for another year. Of course now with auto conn drive over will still do that ,make sure everything is good. Will take off for tilling gardens or all BH work and 99% of the time for fel work.
Just my 2 cents
 

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Mine didn't do anything. Just made green water... I use loader and wash it off. If you do it every time it's easy to get clean. If it dries it takes a powerwasher and some time.

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I have used the Wash-out Port on my 54" auto-connect deck. As long as you do EVERY time you mow, it will do a decent (not perfect) job at keeping the bulk of the slimy green stuff building up. Having said that, it is not a substitute for some good old fashioned elbow grease. Every month or so I have removed my decks and used whatever tool best works for you (3" stiff putty knife for me) to get ALL the "junk" off. I will also occationally get out the power washer to get those hard to reach places, and put that finishing touch of "clean" under the deck. Just be careful, not to shoot any high pressure water in and around the spindles/bearings. I take these same opportunities for greasing spindles and sharpening blades as necessary.

If you get the FEL, that is your best friend combined with a 2" ratchet strap to lift the deck to expose bottom for cleaning. Sure saves the back! :thumbup1gif:
 

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I've always used water from a hose, correctly directed under the deck with a garden nozzle. Never a "wash port". Since 1954 I have not rusted a deck nor ruined a spindle. I don't aim the water right on the spindle and I know that the rotation of a deck running 1/2 throttle will use the physics of centrugal force to toss the water off the slinger ring under the spindle. Exactly the same thing happens when you just have to mow that 6" high grass just after the rain stops. DO NOT spray water on the hot deck belt (or so they say). I may have broken that rule several times inadvertantly though.:mocking:

Cleaning results will depend on the varied buildup of grass being mowed, the moisture in the grass (juice) and to a great extent, the physics of the air action under the particular deck. I do know that most wash ports introduce the water far from the point it will do the most good. When you look under your deck for the first time after use you will see where the "dead spots" are and the grass collects in pockets. I like a garden "watering wand" + tight stream nozzle to aim the water up around the rim and into the ends of the blades. (WARNING: You MAY lose a nozzle IF you contact the spinning blades!)

Hose wash, scrape, power wash, steel wool, wire brush, but don't put the deck away UNCLEANED down to the paint in a damp area for the off season. And don't forget regular spindle greasing (Don't ask me how much grease, it's a John Deere/NSA trade secret and blacked out of all deck manuals and this forum!):laugh:
 

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I've never had one on any mower deck. I asked the dealer about the one my 1025r and he said, if I'm going to use it, do it every time, if not then don't use it at all. I still have no idea if they work or not didn't even realize it was there when I first checked out the tractor. Undecided still if i'lll use it or not. If so definitely not till it cools off first, hot bearings and cold water is not a good mix.
 

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I have used the Wash-out Port on my 54" auto-connect deck. As long as you do EVERY time you mow, it will do a decent (not perfect) job at keeping the bulk of the slimy green stuff building up. Having said that, it is not a substitute for some good old fashioned elbow grease. Every month or so I have removed my decks and used whatever tool best works for you (3" stiff putty knife for me) to get ALL the "junk" off. I will also occationally get out the power washer to get those hard to reach places, and put that finishing touch of "clean" under the deck. Just be careful, not to shoot any high pressure water in and around the spindles/bearings. I take these same opportunities for greasing spindles and sharpening blades as necessary.

If you get the FEL, that is your best friend combined with a 2" ratchet strap to lift the deck to expose bottom for cleaning. Sure saves the back! :thumbup1gif:
In your picture, did you add that piece of steel on your mower deck? I'm referring to the upper right side as it appears in the picture.
 

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In your picture, did you add that piece of steel on your mower deck? I'm referring to the upper right side as it appears in the picture.
Nope...came equipped that way.
 
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I use it. It works well.

The deck needs to be all the way down on the ground, no airspace around the bottom.
I tried it first (with poor results) with the deck slightly raised, because I was concerned the blades would hit the ground.

I find a spot where the front wheels are slightly lower than the rear wheels and lower the deck until it's on the ground. You need to run the water for longer than you think (at least 5 minutes).

I still do periodic cleanings with the deck removed, don't find much build-up, and it's easy to remove.
 

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I use it. It works well.

The deck needs to be all the way down on the ground, no airspace around the bottom.
I tried it first (with poor results) with the deck slightly raised, because I was concerned the blades would hit the ground.

I find a spot where the front wheels are slightly lower than the rear wheels and lower the deck until it's on the ground. You need to run the water for longer than you think (at least 5 minutes).

I still do periodic cleanings with the deck removed, don't find much build-up, and it's easy to remove.
My only suggestion would be to allow the deck to cool for an hour or so. The spindles when warm will cool rapidly drawing water in past the seals. This is the only thing I was told to do and everything will be fine. Had a 2 cycle Wisconsin-Robin on a Snapper Commercial mower suck water in and seize the roller bearings. Only did that once. Allowed to cool after I repaired it, and it never did it again.
 

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My only suggestion would be to allow the deck to cool for an hour or so. The spindles when warm will cool rapidly drawing water in past the seals. This is the only thing I was told to do and everything will be fine. Had a 2 cycle Wisconsin-Robin on a Snapper Commercial mower suck water in and seize the roller bearings. Only did that once. Allowed to cool after I repaired it, and it never did it again.
Very true. Which is why the deck/mower has to be running at lest 1/2 throttle or more. Take a look at a JD deck, notice the "slinger ring" or "cup" below the spindle bearing. With the deck spinning at decent RPM water will not be able to stay on the rotating shaft and can't penetrate the bearing seal... After applying water keep the deck running for 5+ minutes. At least that's been my experience.

Results depend more on type of grass, deck design and how diligent the waterer is to get the spray to useful areas for the blades to bash it into the clipping areas. This is the nozzle I like, it has a single solid stream and no misty spray...

nozzle.jpg Screw it to one of these>>>>^^^ watering wand.jpg

and you can get the water stream right where you want (and away from the spindles) all the way around the rim of the deck. Keep the nozzle out of the blades! Don't ask...!:thumbsdown:

Total cost @ a garden center is less than $12-$15 and IF it doesn't clean your deck to your liking you can always use it to water your hanging baskets of fuchsia or wash that stinky dog. :bye:
 

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Very true. Which is why the deck/mower has to be running at lest 1/2 throttle or more. Take a look at a JD deck, notice the "slinger ring" or "cup" below the spindle bearing. With the deck spinning at decent RPM water will not be able to stay on the rotating shaft and can't penetrate the bearing seal... After applying water keep the deck running for 5+ minutes. At least that's been my experience.

Results depend more on type of grass, deck design and how diligent the waterer is to get the spray to useful areas for the blades to bash it into the clipping areas. This is the nozzle I like, it has a single solid stream and no misty spray...

View attachment 26549 Screw it to one of these>>>>^^^ View attachment 26550

and you can get the water stream right where you want (and away from the spindles) all the way around the rim of the deck. Keep the nozzle out of the blades! Don't ask...!:thumbsdown:

Total cost @ a garden center is less than $12-$15 and IF it doesn't clean your deck to your liking you can always use it to water your hanging baskets of fuchsia or wash that stinky dog. :bye:
Yep Harold, did it exactly as you do with my NH. Still looking for a 3 pt. hitch PTO driven :usa made pressure washer..... Don't want to pay a fortune but it is looking like I may have to, or have a separate unit, separate motor et al.
 
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