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Discussion Starter #1
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I find myself using my new 1023E SCUT a fair amount during this latitude's extended dusk. I'm going to need more lighting, probably on the ROP. I have some nice, very bright, 12volt LED lights I want to install. It would be cool to use the factory wiring harness if possible. I noted a couple of things...

  • on the lower dash, there's a switch blank and behind it is a connector block. Am I correct in presuming that that connector is for the switch that controls the auxilliary lighting on the 1025R?
  • Am I correct in presuming that I can just get the dealer to order that switch for me, plug it in, and it will be ready to use to turn auxilliary lighting on and off?
  • Or is there somewhere else I can buy that JD switch online?




ALSO...

Back by the rear PTO, I note these two plugs, that are not attached to anything.
  • Am I correct in assuming that these connectors is where the 1025R's aux fender lights plug in?
  • Am I correct in assuming that my dealer can order me the auxilliary light wiring harness(es), which I in turn can use to activate the lights using the installed switch above that he ordered from me?

thanks in advance for any help
 

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Does the 1023 have tail lights / turn signals?

My previous 2035 and my current 3039R did.

In that wiring harness is a purple wire with a round bullet connector. It is powered by the factory light switch when it is in the second on position.


I don't know about the plugs you posted, but someone here will.
 

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The switch would be for the mower lift option, not lights. The worklight circuit is controlled by the headlight switch. The colors as I recall for this circuit are purple and black, the plug(s) are usually taped to the harness at the base of the ROPS.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The switch would be for the mower lift option, not lights. The worklight circuit is controlled by the headlight switch. The colors as I recall for this circuit are purple and black, the plug(s) are usually taped to the harness at the base of the ROPS.
Great info Ken...thanks. BTW I just got done installing your hooks and clevises on my bucket. Used ‘em to lift and move my ballast box because the 3-pt was occupied. Nice stuff. I’m going to have to pull them off and paint ‘em green.

I’ll start looking for those bullet connectors. I did read the pasted instructions in the SCUT library. I thought maybe that was the OLD way.

Anybody know what those vacant connectors down by the PTO are?
 

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on the lower dash, there's a switch blank and behind it is a connector block. Am I correct in presuming that that connector is for the switch that controls the auxilliary lighting on the 1025R?
As Kenny stated, that switch connector is for mower deck "Independent Lift".

Or is there somewhere else I can buy that JD switch online?
You can purchase Carlington switches from digikey.com that will fit in that opening. They are sealed for dust and moisture.

Am I correct in assuming that these connectors is where the 1025R's aux fender lights plug in?
Am I correct in assuming that my dealer can order me the auxilliary light wiring harness(es), which I in turn can use to activate the lights using the installed switch above that he ordered from me?
Yes and yes. You can order mating plugs from waytekwire.com if you want to fabricate your own harness.

There are female bullet plugs at the end of purple and black wires near where the fender lamps plugs are in your photo. These are for ROPS mounted work lights that are controlled by the light switch. See the attached wiring diagram. It is for an older machine, but I don't thing the light wiring has changed.
 

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Your welcome Mac,
Why paint the hooks? What other hardware on your tractor is painted? We do have an FAQ on this on the website BTW.
 

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The third lead in the right side plug of your photo is for the auxiliary power port/outletthat is standard on the 1025R.
 

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Great info Ken...thanks. BTW I just got done installing your hooks and clevises on my bucket. Used ‘em to lift and move my ballast box because the 3-pt was occupied. Nice stuff. I’m going to have to pull them off and paint ‘em green.

I’ll start looking for those bullet connectors. I did read the pasted instructions in the SCUT library. I thought maybe that was the OLD way.

Anybody know what those vacant connectors down by the PTO are?
You'll find the connectors right at the bottom of each side of the ROPS, then they will come on with your work light switch on the dash/headlight switch. I know they are there, I had work lights wired in that way on my 1023.
 

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You'll find the connectors right at the bottom of each side of the ROPS, then they will come on with your work light switch on the dash/headlight switch. I know they are there, I had work lights wired in that way on my 1023.
What he said.
You need to find these wires in my picture. You can also grab the wire from the link Below. You can cut the wire harness in half and use on both sides. I put 3 lights on my Rops. 2 facing forward and one facing back. I also installed them on heavy duty magnets so I can turn them how I want so I can use them with the Rops up or down.

CountyLine Wiring Harness Extension at Tractor Supply Co.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
What he said.
You need to find these wires in my picture. You can also grab the wire from the link Below. You can cut the wire harness in half and use on both sides. I put 3 lights on my Rops. 2 facing forward and one facing back. I also installed them on heavy duty magnets so I can turn them how I want so I can use them with the Rops up or down.

CountyLine Wiring Harness Extension at Tractor Supply Co.
Very interesting...

I spent some time digging out those wires coming back to the rear of the tractor at the bottom of each side of the ROP. Several of them go into each side and up the ROP to run the turn signals/flashers and taillights. On the right side, I did find the purple/black wires with capped bullet connectors. On the left side, if you note the connector I circled, the purple/black wires actually go into that connector.



Furthermore, those connectors are both actually both sides of the connector. I can unplug either one and the tops are just empty blanks...ready to just attach whatever wires I want to secure to them.

It raises multiple questions...
  • Does one side purple/black represent the connector for the 1025R fender lights while the other side purple/black runs the work light?
  • Can I use either of the purple/black wires to run auxulliary lights?
  • What is the connector on the right side? The wires are orange/gray/black. I wonder what they run.
If only I could find my multi-meter. I have a sneaking suspicion that it somehow jumped from my tool chest to my son's. I think that a multi-meter and a closer perusal of my service manual might shed sufficient light on the subject to figure this out.





 

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Very interesting...

I spent some time digging out those wires coming back to the rear of the tractor at the bottom of each side of the ROP. Several of them go into each side and up the ROP to run the turn signals/flashers and taillights. On the right side, I did find the purple/black wires with capped bullet connectors. On the left side, if you note the connector I circled, the purple/black wires actually go into that connector.



Furthermore, those connectors are both actually both sides of the connector. I can unplug either one and the tops are just empty blanks...ready to just attach whatever wires I want to secure to them.

It raises multiple questions...
  • Does one side purple/black represent the connector for the 1025R fender lights while the other side purple/black runs the work light?
  • Can I use either of the purple/black wires to run auxulliary lights?
  • What is the connector on the right side? The wires are orange/gray/black. I wonder what they run.
If only I could find my multi-meter. I have a sneaking suspicion that it somehow jumped from my tool chest to my son's. I think that a multi-meter and a closer perusal of my service manual might shed sufficient light on the subject to figure this out.





I got home at 8. Just in time for 10 minutes of light :laugh:

Both sides have the capped off purple & black wire.
Quickly looking that connector you circled looks to be going to the stock fender lights.

All opinions. Not facts.
Question 1= I THINK it represents left and right for both fender and work lights
Q2= I see no reason at all why you can’t ( I used one set of bullet connectors for 2 lights on my Rops and the other bullet connector for a light on the other side of the Rops. The light switch on the dash turns them all on. This was the same on my 2016 1025 & 2018 2025)
Q3= looks like it’s going to marker relay and marker lights?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I got home at 8. Just in time for 10 minutes of light :laugh:

Both sides have the capped off purple & black wire.
Quickly looking that connector you circled looks to be going to the stock fender lights.

All opinions. Not facts.
Question 1= I THINK it represents left and right for both fender and work lights
Q2= I see no reason at all why you can’t ( I used one set of bullet connectors for 2 lights on my Rops and the other bullet connector for a light on the other side of the Rops. The light switch on the dash turns them all on. This was the same on my 2016 1025 & 2018 2025)
Q3= looks like it’s going to marker relay and marker lights?
Thanks! Looking at the diagrams from the parts catalogue, I think you're right. The bullet connectors go to the worklight, the sealed connector on the left goes to the fender light, the sealed connector on the right goes to both the fender light and the 12 volt outlet.

Once I find my multi-meter, it should become more clear as to what I can use to power my aux LEDs and have them switched from the headlight switch.
 

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Here's a couple more pictures that should help also.

Green, black, grey, orange are for the tail/stop lights.

You're correct about purple/black (LH) is left fender light. Purple/black, red is RH fender light with the red being positive for the 12v accessory port. The black on that side is split to be the negative for both the light and the port.

NormalAppImage(1)-2.png

NormalAppImage(1)-3.png
 

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I just purchased a 12v relay kit off amazon and a lighted switch, easy install and ran my own wiring to the lights on the rear. I preferred this because I adapted the same harness to run a 40
Gallon 3pt sprayer and I can control it off the same switch. 10 bucks maybe



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Just adding one quick comment for any 1023 owner who might be looking to add the JD aux lighting kit and stumbles on this thread. It took me 2 frustrating weeks of reasearch and 3 different dealers to figure out for me that when adding the aux rops mounted lighting kit from JD, you have to buy an additional wiring harness. The kit is full plug and play on the 25/26r but is only 80% plug and play on the 23. Without the additional harness ($20 at your dealer) you CANNOT install the aux lighting kit on a 1023. My machine is a 2014 and maybe they have added the full harness from the factory since then. But I'm assuming not.
 

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Just adding one quick comment for any 1023 owner who might be looking to add the JD aux lighting kit and stumbles on this thread. It took me 2 frustrating weeks of reasearch and 3 different dealers to figure out for me that when adding the aux rops mounted lighting kit from JD, you have to buy an additional wiring harness. The kit is full plug and play on the 25/26r but is only 80% plug and play on the 23. Without the additional harness ($20 at your dealer) you CANNOT install the aux lighting kit on a 1023. My machine is a 2014 and maybe they have added the full harness from the factory since then. But I'm assuming not.
:good2:

Do you have part numbers and or pictures that you could pass on?
 

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:good2:

Do you have part numbers and or pictures that you could pass on?
Hey guys. It's been some years since I did it but I'll see if I can find the part # somewhere. I did post about it way back when and I think I may have mentioned the part # there. I'll go looking.
 
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