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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A friend's 1023e has a leak.
He asked me to take a look the right PS hose is damaged. The damage is where the hose goes above the 90° to cylinder fitting of the left hose. It looked like the hose rubbed on the 90° fitting. maybe at full articulation of the front axle or bouncing during use. :unsure:

Anybody have to change this hose? Did you route different?
The local dealer does not have the hose in stock but can make one. Would a longer or shorter hose work better?
Or maybe changing the 90° fitting for this hose to a 45° fitting allow routing to avoid the 90° fitting of the left hose?
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Haven't heard of the hose rubbing the 90 before just rubbing on the tire at times, but I can see where it's possible.

Mine was rubbing the tire and probably was orientated similar to what you describe. This is how I adjusted the RH hose to keep it from rubbing the tire. It would also work to eliminate rubbing the 90 in your situation. It may look like it's hitting the frame but it's not.

As far as changing the length, I dunno. I wouldn't want it to be longer, and I wouldn't shorten it much. An inch or two at most? Maybe take the leaker off and play around with it to get an idea. If you could jack up the front end and get jack stands on the frame securely, you could test different lengths while being able to pivot the axle.

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Mine rubbed the tire at about a full lock turn.
I loosened and rerouted both hoses to keep them from touching anything without shortening or lengthening them.
Pay attention though that the axle pivoting at the center does not cause the hoses to touch anything at full articulation.
 
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1025r with Mauser cab.
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Probably an adjustment of his PS line would have prevented the issue, but now the damage is done. I would be reluctant to change the length or even the fittings, however, I would install it in a way which avoids the rubbing which likely led to this problem.

Usually, its not a major adjustment, just "tweaking" the hose to avoid the contact. Also, some people have caught their PS hoses on sticks or debris and put pressure on them even twisting the fittings. I would be inclined to have the dealer make the new hose the same way and just make sure its installed to avoid issues.

Also, make sure the dealer doesn't use fittings which are longer or change the length, etc. I have seen some hoses made where they used multiple fittings instead of the right ONE fitting and it created clearance issues. You don't want that to happen........
 

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Our area dealer group usually makes the lines as needed, in about 10 minutes, instead of stocking all of the different lines. They have all of the fittings and hose and the machine to make the correct high pressure connections on the hose. I usually watch them make the lines I need and they have a source which tells them all of the exact dimensions for the OEM lines in case the customer doesn't have the line off the machine yet for them to measure.........
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you haven't tried the Green Tractor parts store, I bet they have them in stock?
Local dealer said they can have a factory hose in a couple days. Or they will make one while we wait.
Our area dealer group usually makes the lines as needed, in about 10 minutes, instead of stocking all of the different lines. They have all of the fittings and hose and the machine to make the correct high pressure connections on the hose. I usually watch them make the lines I need and they have a source which tells them all of the exact dimensions for the OEM lines in case the customer doesn't have the line off the machine yet for them to measure.........
Local dealer is same as owned in your area. I plan to pull the hose. The parts guys said it was a -4 ORFS fitting. I had to check If I had cap and plug before pulling the line.
If they can't make the line without resorting adapters, we will order the factory part.

I'll get some pictures before I take the hose off. I think it rubbed the 90° for the left hose, but it could have been the left front tire. I'll check that too.
 

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Hi All
I have had to replace a couple of hoses due to quality problems with the hoses (they burst). I buy reusable ends and hose that is a little long, then make the hoses to suite. I use better quality hoses, double braid instead of single braid.
No special tools required, a vice, a 4" grinder with a cutting off wheel and some spanners.
regard John
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Mine rubbed the tire at about a full lock turn.
I loosened and rerouted both hoses to keep them from touching anything without shortening or lengthening them.
Pay attention though that the axle pivoting at the center does not cause the hoses to touch anything at full articulation.
You are right, it was rubbed by the left front tire when at full left lock of the steering.
 
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You are right, it was rubbed by the left front tire when at full left lock of the steering.
If you orientate it like I show in my photo, it should take of that problem.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Owner and I went to the local JD dealer for a new hose. We asked the parts guy if JD had a superseded P/N for the hose to correct the rubbing of the left front tire. He checked and said the P/N had not changed.
We brought the original hose. The parts guy said he could make it same, longer or shorter, but could not advise if anyone was changing length from stock. We went with stock length. Fittings matched original; no adapters needed.
While we were there, we looked at a 1025R (or maybe it was a 1026R?) The hoses were different and so were the hard lines. The hard lines were moved inboard. The right hose was shorter, no way the tire could rub it.

First we installed the new hose same as the original, above the left hose, but clocked the cylinder's 90° fitting as far as we dared without the hose touching the frame. This was on level ground and we did not check (yet) for clearance articulating the axle. Checking at full lock to the left, the tire would still rub the hose.
Next we installed the hose below the left hose, and clocked the cylinder's 90° fitting to point the hose down and pull it inboard. The tire still comes very close to hitting at full lock. We have maybe 1/8" clearance. I do not like the way the hose hangs down, but it's better than having the tire rub it.
Swapping the cylinder's 90° fitting for a 45° fitting or straight fitting might move the hose in without making it hang down. Since we did not have those fittings we could not try those ideas.
First two Pictures are the old hose, third new hose above left hose, fourth the new hose installed hanging down (last picture).
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If you orientate it like I show in my photo, it should take of that problem.
We tried that. Your 1025r might be different than his 1023e. We clocked the 90° fitting until the hose almost touched the frame. We did not dare turn the 90° fitting any more further clockwise. The hose still looped outboard of the frame and the tire still hit it at full left steering lock.
The new tractor we looked at the JD dealer had hose sleeving on the hoses too.
I wish your suggestion had worked. I do not like the way the hose hangs down the way we had to install it
 

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I routed mine exactly as kylew did. I'll send a pic, unfortunately I just got off the tractor an hour ago and was cutting in a very high grass, wet and muddy area on my property, so dirty pic...
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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
I routed mine exactly as kylew did. I'll send a pic, unfortunately I just got off the tractor an hour ago and was cutting in a very high grass, wet and muddy area on my property, so dirty pic... View attachment 839948
It looks like yours goes higher inside the frame rail, then loops down before it loops up to the hard line.
I am guessing I should have tried clocking the 90° fitting more clockwise. I though the hose would be rubbing the bottom edge of the frame when I stopped.

I wonder if the 1025r hose is shorter than the 1023e hose? Shorter might have been better, but at $49 for the hose, we did not want to experiment.

Parts catalog show there are the same P/N so they are the same length
 
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The hoses on mine ended up just barely clearing everything. Certainly even a half inch shorter would have helped.
I think, but no proof, that Deere sold a couple years run with the hoses like this before fixing it somehow at the factory.
I saw my tire contacting mine before it had done any serious abrading and got under there and fooled with it.
 

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It looks like yours goes higher inside the frame rail, then loops down before it loops up to the hard line.
I am guessing I should have tried clocking the 90° fitting more clockwise. I though the hose would be rubbing the bottom edge of the frame when I stopped.

I wonder if the 1025r hose is shorter than the 1023e hose? Shorter might have been better, but at $49 for the hose, we did not want to experiment.

Parts catalog show there are the same P/N so they are the same length

It appears that there have been some upgrades made to the hoses / lines. These screen shots on the 1023e show the old and new part numbers for each.

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
SullyBear, your screen shots are of two different hoses, key 20 in the top drawing, key 18 in the bottom drawing.
It does look like JD changed the hoses to key 17 in your posted drawings. They eliminated the hard lines from the steering valve and used hoses all the way to cylinder.
This tractor has hard lines to hoses (key 12) to the cylinder. We asked the parts guy if there were any changes. He said no.
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Z5, I know I'm late with this picture, but here's a side view of the hose. I know in the other photo it looks close to the frame but you can see the clearance better.
The hose measures approx.15" overall. You can see the wear on it from the tire rubbing. Wore through the rubber and exposed the braiding underneath, but it doesn't leak.
Yes, those are new tenny shoes in the background. Forgot to check full left lock to make sure the new tire doesn't hit the hose, but I'm sure it won't. I'll update if I have to adjust the hose again.

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