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Discussion Starter #1
1023E stupid ROPS Warning Light design, anybody modify? I hit the LH light over a year ago and replaced it. Tonight I hit the RH light. It is really a stupid design when people have birch trees that like to lean rather than stand straight up.

I am looking for suggestions on how to replace them with a better design or move them inside the ROPS bar along with the lights.

Any suggestions welcome. I am tired of paying $40 a pop for them.

Thanks
 

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Several members have put them on the inside of the ROPS.


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Several members have put them on the inside of the ROPS.
^^^^ X2

JD also sells a set of steel guards that surrounds the outside of the lights and offers a bit of protection.
 

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You can easily move them to the inside, but if you have a backhoe that's not the best idea. Instead get the light guards, they work well.

Only $40 for a light? Not bad. The ones for my 1025 are closer to $135, last I checked.
 

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You can easily move them to the inside, but if you have a backhoe that's not the best idea. Instead get the light guards, they work well.

Only $40 for a light? Not bad. The ones for my 1025 are closer to $135, last I checked.
The 1023e can have two different tail lights depending on serial number. The earlier light is a single light and costs around $40 for the whole assembly. The newer version is a double light, one above the other and that assembly costs around $80.

The 1025R's all use the double light, same part number as the 1023e. ~$80 for the entire assembly.
 

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I stand corrected, you are right. I swear they were about $135 last year. My bad.
 

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I stand corrected, you are right. I swear they were about $135 last year. My bad.
The $135 probably included the dealer tip. :)
 

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I put the steel guards on mine. Really hold up well with brush and allow for aux lighting mounting options



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I need to stay married, so after the bride damaged all four the first summer, I just removed them. Thankfully, the damage was not to the point they couldn't be repaired by replacing cracked lens or gluing the nut insert back into the housing with structural adhesive.

We don't work after dark or operate on public roadways in the summer months, so it is not an issue then. The same lamp assemblies are remounted on the Cozy Cab pillars, so we just leave them on the cabs, as we do operate at night and on public roadways when performing snow removal.

The instrument cluster will display a lamp error message if you disconnect them and have a lamp function active.
 

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I am still working on this mod and only have 1 picture of it. The left side is the new light that i am building out of aluminum and only sticks out 1 inch off the rops. The back side has turn signals and brake light and the front is trun signal only. The light bar is 12" high and uses the stock bolts from the original light. The right side is the stock light. You might have to zoom in on the left side to see the light bar.


2032r: FEL, MMM, Artillian forks, piranha tooth bar, ROPS Sensor System, and more!
 

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I am still working on this mod and only have 1 picture of it. The left side is the new light that i am building out of aluminum and only sticks out 1 inch off the rops. The back side has turn signals and brake light and the front is trun signal only. The light bar is 12" high and uses the stock bolts from the original light. The right side is the stock light. You might have to zoom in on the left side to see the light bar.


2032r: FEL, MMM, Artillian forks, piranha tooth bar, ROPS Sensor System, and more!

At our house the go cart is on the garage floor next to the Corvette so when the grand sons are over they can ride it.:bigthumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I have the guards around the lights but anyone in the northeast knows those birch trees like to lean. So when you cut around them I swear they reach out and grab the lights.

I am going to move them inside but I think I am going to use led's for the work lights and the flashers. I was hoping someone had already done the project and would save me trying to hunt for the lights.

I thought about moving them inside but I forget why I decided against it. I probably thought I wouldn't hit them again. (well that was wrong)
 

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If you don't have the backhoe, then moving the lights to the inside makes perfect sense. It's a pretty easy job. Two bolts per light and a little fishing of the wires. The lights get swapped side to side, so you'll have to re-fish the wires back down the roll bar, but that's an easy enough job. It's all plug connectors so there's no cutting or splicing involved. You'll probably need to cut a zip-tie or 2 that's holding the wiring in a cluster. Then I used a few foot piece of tie-wire to pull the wires back down... If I can do it, anybody can!!

Before.....

DSCF9909.JPG


After.....

DSCF0006.JPG


No more worrying about trees and branches knocking off $$$ lights.
 

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Here is my solution.

Flush mount leds, you need to drill 3/4 holes. One yellow in front, a yellow and a red on the back, and I added a extra yellow into the stock hole on the side, with a little help of hot glue because this stock hole is wider. Added resistors for flashers.


For the Rops, I drilled a hole into the 2x2 tube so I can insert the stock pin and created what I call "the 45° position". This solved all my problems. It clears the garage door, half folded position would hit my snowblower's chute at some point, It clears head when no 3pt attachement, and I can't fully fold it because of my 3rd scv, Tree branches just flows along the Rops too! The bracket in the middle of the Rops is to install my magnetic led strobe light in winter, wired with a weatherpack connector.... to remove it in summer time to clear tree branches.....



Please, don't blame me with " structural integrity" of the Rops for drilled holes....this is another subject.

2015 1025r, FEL, SB1154, 54D.
 

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reconfigure light bracket.

after I broke a light after installing the metal guards I modified the light so they fastened only to the braket and thne mounted the braket to the rops. I used soft bolts to attach the bracket to the rops so if next time a branch "jumps" out in front of the light and bracket the bolts will break and not the light assembly. I have a 1025R with a backhoe so moving the lights inside wasn't an option.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the suggestions. I think I am going to go with LED replacements inside the ROPS. Hopefully these won't get hit :)
 
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