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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
fer fun

WERE YOU IN H OR L...reading is fuN dimentaL.......inquiring minds want too know.

H is generally a No Go ..its there for travel.

If these had a 3 range ,,,,,medium would be usefull..H is not very often of any use.
Dan,

Always L when working and H when traveling and never AWD on asphalt. I thought the engine was overheated since I was grading for like a half-hour, but the temps looked just fine.
 

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agurkas,
Call the dealer ASAP and let them find and fix the problem. I also own a 1023e, but with 170 hours on it. Next weekend is filter weekend so I'll be doing them all, and getting ready for the snow. PM me if you wish. I think I live close to you and will be glad to help if needed.
 

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I had the same problem but I'm special!! It wasn't the filter. It was the rubber fuel line where the small filter is was bent restricting fuel flow. while under the tractor changing the filter make sure the fuel line from the tank to the metal line it attaches to is not kinked.

Steve
 

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It absolutely sounded to me like the engine was starving for fuel, not being pulled down out of it's powerband.
When that fuel filter is part plugged, you will only have those symptoms when the engine is working hard, using a lot of fuel, and it "catches up" with the fuel filter.
 

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I had the same problem but I'm special!! It wasn't the filter. It was the rubber fuel line where the small filter is was bent restricting fuel flow. while under the tractor changing the filter make sure the fuel line from the tank to the metal line it attaches to is not kinked.

Steve
Trying to buck the trend eh? 😁
 
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I would call the dealer and get this handled under warranty service.

I know that most people point to the little fuel filter under the floorboards (why didn't they put just a little more hose to/from that little stinker, anyway?). They are probably correct, based on the wide experience of others. However, for me it turned out that the same problem was caused by the air filter.

Steve
 

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I would call the dealer and get this handled under warranty service.

I know that most people point to the little fuel filter under the floorboards (why didn't they put just a little more hose to/from that little stinker, anyway?). They are probably correct, based on the wide experience of others. However, for me it turned out that the same problem was caused by the air filter.

Steve
If it is a filter, fuel or air, would a consumable like a filter even be covered under warranty? I'm doubtful. Unless an owner is unable to do it themselves for what ever reason, I would imagine they would be charged for the filter and the labor to change it. Not to mention getting the tractor to the dealer and waiting for it to be done. If it turns out that a filter change does not fix the problem, then let the dealer have it.
 

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If it is a filter, fuel or air, would a consumable like a filter even be covered under warranty? I'm doubtful. Unless an owner is unable to do it themselves for what ever reason, I would imagine they would be charged for the filter and the labor to change it. Not to mention getting the tractor to the dealer and waiting for it to be done. If it turns out that a filter change does not fix the problem, then let the dealer have it.
Now while running is the best time to learn to change it. PITA IF it quits with the deck on!!

john Deere 1025R
loader
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47 in tiller
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Now while running is the best time to learn to change it. PITA IF it quits with the deck on!!
I had to change mine one time with the deck on. The tractor started acting up for a few days while mowing. I knew what it was, but I put it off. The day went to change it, I tried to drive it over to the driveway to remove the deck. It died in the yard before I could get there and it would not stay running for more than a few seconds, so I had to change it sitting in the grass. I had to lower the deck all the way down to the install position to gain some access. It was tight, but after a few cuts and skinned knuckles, I managed to swap the filter out. Not fun.
 

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Had a weird issue today. I was leveling some dirt and out of a sudden engine started "choking". Would not hold RPMs like injectors were clogged or something. Was weirded out by it since the tractor is still new. I could keep the throttle at max, try to backdrag with FEL and the engine would just die. The tank was 1/4 full. The filter looked just fine.
Engine temps were just fine. I went and had dinner (angry), came back, and it started up just fine.
HAD THE SAME PROBLEM ON MY 2015 1023E. ALL FILTERS ARE CHANGED EVERY YEAR. FOUND OUT THAT THE FUEL LINE UNDER FLOOR BOARD HAD A KINK IN IT. DON'T KNOW WHY IT TOOK SO LONG TO HAPPEN BUT AFTER I REROUTED THE LINE EVERYTHING IS RUNNING PERFECT. I EVEN CHANGED THE FILTER UNDER THE FLOOR BOARD WITH ONLY 15 HOURS ON IT THINKING COULD BE BAD BUT JUST THE LINE.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
This is rather embarrassing. So I have a very techie/analytical brain and I should have run through this the last time.
I got into the same RPM situation again yesterday.
The fuel gauge was showing a tad under 1/4 left. I was expecting low fuel thing to flash, like on my X330... but I guess 1023e doesn't have that?
I knew my diesel was good because I used a brand new fuel can and got diesel from the station that has a very high turnover.
Went under the tractor and checked out the hoses and the filter - no kinks, clean as a whistle, no bubbles in the filter. Big filter by the engine - no water, no bubbles.

Filled the tank to the top (which also gauge does not show as absolute F, just close enough, though it was to the brim) - after tractor running for 30 seconds post-restart - RPM issues gone.
 

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Maybe sharing will help someone else. Going forward, try and avoid running a diesel out of fuel. it provides the lubrication for the injection pump ($1700USD + labor). This is also why many of us run a fuel treatment to provide additional lubrication to this pump cause of the ULSD being not as slippery...

Edit: there are more pros for the treatments but I'll save those for another day.
 
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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Maybe sharing will help someone else. Going forward, try and avoid running a diesel out of fuel. it provides the lubrication for the injection pump ($1700USD + labor). This is also why many of us run a fuel treatment to provide additional lubrication to this pump cause of the ULSD being not as slippery...

Edit: there are more pros for the treatments but I'll save those for another day.
100% the point of this thread - tease out lessons of those who messed up worse, so the rest of us newbs learn at as low of a cost as possible.

BTW, I have been researching fuel treatments, given I am aware of ULSD issues. TTYT and GWT have educated me a ton but I also have been watching a lot of tests on the Project Farm channel (which I found via Bob the Oil Guy forums I frequent). PF dude had a very good video on ULSD additives
 

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Take a close look at the shape of the fuel tank and you will quickly see why the fuel gauge is very inconsistent in its reading of the fuel levels. Also, the gauge drops much more quickly on the lower half of the tank than on the upper half due to the shape of the tank and the fuel volume. This is something I have very closely monitored as I often have 3 to 5 hour snow plow sessions with each snow fall.

The tank isn't shaped like a square or rectangle, but rather a large tapered quarter circle, to fit under the fender. The tank is thicker at the top and thins as it drops in both front to rear dimension as well as side to side dimension. The illustration shows the shape and how the fuel gauge is positioned in the tank. The shape of the tank and the fuel gauge make the fuel readings something you can't and shouldn't entirely rely upon.

Product Rectangle Organism Font Parallel


Your machine, being new, will burn about 1.1 to 1.4 gallons per hour while mowing. As the machine breaks in and you consistently use a quality fuel supplement, you can reduce your fuel consumption to as low as 0.7 to 0.8 GPH for machine use without the PTO and 0.9 to 1 gallon per hour with the PTO use.

The point is, when consuming fuel with the tank shape and the way the gauge reads, with its 6.3 gallon capacity, you will not get the same "time" of fuel burn out of the last 1/2 of the tank that you do out of the first half of the tank. You can probably use the machine for nearly 3 hours on the first half tank of fuel per the gauge. You will not get another 3 hours of run time out of a machine showing 1/2 tank of fuel remaining. Its more likely to be 2 hours or even less............I have checked this and measured the fuel consumption every time I plow snow, which is usually 25 to 40 times per winter.

This is how I plan my fuel purchases and also figures into the pricing of the snow plow services. Since fuel has nearly doubled in price this past year, its very important to know the fuel consumption details when you are using the machine as much as 170 hours during the winter as I do.

If you get into the habit of ALWAYS treating all diesel fuel year around and refueling before the tank drops below 1/2, you will have fewer issues and more consistent performance. Plus, you can avoid what we call "the walk of shame" when you have to carry the fuel to the tractor, instead of taking the tractor to its fuel source..............
 

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You can get the fuel gauge to show full if you top it off then grab the ROPS and rock the tractor side to side to get the air out, lol.

No fuel level warning light on my 1025R, none on the 1023E either I'm sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Take a close look at the shape of the fuel tank and you will quickly see why the fuel gauge is very inconsistent in its reading of the fuel levels. Also, the gauge drops much more quickly on the lower half of the tank than on the upper half due to the shape of the tank and the fuel volume. This is something I have very closely monitored as I often have 3 to 5 hour snow plow sessions with each snow fall.

The tank isn't shaped like a square or rectangle, but rather a large tapered quarter circle, to fit under the fender. The tank is thicker at the top and thins as it drops in both front to rear dimension as well as side to side dimension. The illustration shows the shape and how the fuel gauge is positioned in the tank. The shape of the tank and the fuel gauge make the fuel readings something you can't and shouldn't entirely rely upon.



Your machine, being new, will burn about 1.1 to 1.4 gallons per hour while mowing. As the machine breaks in and you consistently use a quality fuel supplement, you can reduce your fuel consumption to as low as 0.7 to 0.8 GPH for machine use without the PTO and 0.9 to 1 gallon per hour with the PTO use.

The point is, when consuming fuel with the tank shape and the way the gauge reads, with its 6.3 gallon capacity, you will not get the same "time" of fuel burn out of the last 1/2 of the tank that you do out of the first half of the tank. You can probably use the machine for nearly 3 hours on the first half tank of fuel per the gauge. You will not get another 3 hours of run time out of a machine showing 1/2 tank of fuel remaining. Its more likely to be 2 hours or even less............I have checked this and measured the fuel consumption every time I plow snow, which is usually 25 to 40 times per winter.

This is how I plan my fuel purchases and also figures into the pricing of the snow plow services. Since fuel has nearly doubled in price this past year, its very important to know the fuel consumption details when you are using the machine as much as 170 hours during the winter as I do.

If you get into the habit of ALWAYS treating all diesel fuel year around and refueling before the tank drops below 1/2, you will have fewer issues and more consistent performance. Plus, you can avoid what we call "the walk of shame" when you have to carry the fuel to the tractor, instead of taking the tractor to its fuel source..............
This is SUPER useful. Thank you!
 

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You can get the fuel gauge to show full if you top it off then grab the ROPS and rock the tractor side to side to get the air out, lol.

No fuel level warning light on my 1025R, none on the 1023E either I'm sure.
I thought I was the only joker who did that...
If I fill up a little over half way up the fill neck and give her a shake it burps down to the proper fill level.
 

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I thought I was the only joker who did that...
If I fill up a little over half way up the fill neck and give her a shake it burps down to the proper fill level.
I just shake while the transfer pump is running and fuel is at the base of the filler neck. They shake easier with the 3pt implement still in the air, if equipped when filling.
 

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So it was out of fuel? Or was a little below 1/4 tank?
Maybe Im misunderstanding, but it shouldn't start to lose power or sputter until the fuel tank is essentially empty...
 
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I thought I was the only joker who did that...
If I fill up a little over half way up the fill neck and give her a shake it burps down to the proper fill level.
Nope, not just you! I do it to everything! Guess I'm OCD about the tank being full and the gauge not indicating it correctly :LOL:


So it was out of fuel? Or was a little below 1/4 tank?
Maybe Im misunderstanding, but it shouldn't start to lose power or sputter until the fuel tank is essentially empty...
Depends on if you were on level ground or not. It doesn't take much air at all to make a diesel run like crap, uncovering the fuel pickup for just a second would probably do the trick.

I've run mine below 1/4 tank no problem but the land is flat as can be around here.
 
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