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Had the 1025 for a couple years without issues. Used it all winter, went to start it this morning and seems to be some sort of electrical issue. Disconnected and reconnected the battery without help.

Any thoughts, checked battery reads ok via voltmeter, and all the fuses seem fine.

Thanks
 

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Had the 1025 for a couple years without issues. Used it all winter, went to start it this morning and seems to be some sort of electrical issue. Disconnected and reconnected the battery without help.

Any thoughts, checked battery reads ok via voltmeter, and all the fuses seem fine.

Thanks
When you say it reads okay with a volt meter, what was the reading? Did you measure the voltage while turning the key?

Do you have any way to load test the battery? If not, measure the voltage with the ignition on and turning the key to the start position. Let us know your findings.
 

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Charge the battery and see what happens. If it won't take a charge you may need to replace the battery. Fully charged good battery should show about 13 +volts.
 

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Charge the battery and see what happens. If it won't take a charge you may need to replace the battery. Fully charged good battery should show about 13 +volts.
The OP stated that he's used the tractor all winter so it's not like it's been sitting around. Good batteries don't normally just go dead unless you've left the lights on, key on, etc. Without exception every wet cell battery I've ever had that suddenly went dead ended up being bad.
 

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Does your tractor have a PTO over ride switch? My tractor won't start if the PTO Switch is pulled up/on just a thought because you said the battery was reading good voltage and not engaging the starter at all? It has to be off and in my seat except I By-passed the seat switch to much of a hassle to deal with I need to sit/stand up to often while it is running to see the forks and such while moving.
 

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Start with removing the battery cables and cleaning the cable ends and posts with a post cleaner brush, made for that purpose. They sell them just about any place that even has basic auto supplies. If you have by chance replaced a cable post clamp with one of those universal clamp on wire type, they are notorious for corroding up between the cable wire and the clamp.

Will it start if you jump it from you vehicle?
 

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As others have said, it is definitely a battery issue. Terminals corroded, battery needs charged or battery is no good.

I would approach the repair in that order. Check the terminals first, then try to charge the battery. It it holds a charge and it starts, you battery may be ok. The test will be if it stays charged until you use it the next time.

The best is charge it and take it to an auto parts store (call them first) to get it load tested.
 

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The best is charge it and take it to an auto parts store (call them first) to get it load tested.
Just be careful to avoid this:

Me: Can you please load test my battery
Clerk: Sure... Yep! The battery is bad
Me: Umm... shouldn't the test leads be connected to the battery?
 

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I've seen all sorts of weird battery fails, and you would swear they had to be good. That is until under a load. I once drove to the store and when I came out to leave, all it would do is click the solenoid. The dang thing died that quick and with no prior warnings like slow cranking before hand. At first I refused to believe it could be the battery, did all the normal cleaning, wiggling etc, but yep, it was the battery. Another time I bought a trolling motor battery at K-mart back in the 80's. It was a brand name(can't remember now), the kind with a glowing green eye so you could see if it was charged. I charged it, green eye good, would not work. Took it back for an exchange. Same thing. I took it back again and the sales dude thought I was some sort of a dummy. Got a refund after some arguing with them not wanting to give me my money back. Went somewhere else and bought a battery of another brand and it worked just fine. Must have been a bad batch.
 

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I also vote: check terminals on battery for corrosion or being loose. if it's still no-go, the battery s--t itself. in the past few years I've had batteries on different vehicles just up and die like that.
 

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Ok so I am not familiar with the gauge sweep/lamp check on a 1025r but is it normal for the tachometer to be sitting at 3000 rpm with the key off?
 

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Ok so I am not familiar with the gauge sweep/lamp check on a 1025r but is it normal for the tachometer to be sitting at 3000 rpm with the key off?
No. It sounds like the tension spring, in the meter movement, has broken or become detached. I've never had much success in repairing meter movements. I'd suggest you contact John Deere 1025R TLB, who just upgraded his instrument cluster to correct a cold start issue, and see if you could acquire his old one and salvage the meter movement from it. Here is the thread where he discusses his cold start issue:

http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/154081-got-my-1025r-my-2013-fixed.html
 

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Had the 1025 for a couple years without issues. Used it all winter, went to start it this morning and seems to be some sort of electrical issue. Disconnected and reconnected the battery without help.

Any thoughts, checked battery reads ok via voltmeter, and all the fuses seem fine.

Thanks
Dead battery or voltage drop are my first guesses.
To check voltage drop stab one probe in center of bat terminal & the other in the post. Have helper turn key on and watch meter. If over .3v is seen when glow plug & lights come on you have a poor connection. Remove & wire brush the posts & terminals. Apply grease to bottom of battery post to prevent acid from wicking up between post & terminal.

Otherwise properly charge the battery (apx 40a setting for 20 min) see attached
 

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Just be careful to avoid this:

Me: Can you please load test my battery
Clerk: Sure... Yep! The battery is bad
Me: Umm... shouldn't the test leads be connected to the battery?
:laugh::laugh::laugh: That's funny!!!
 

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No. It sounds like the tension spring, in the meter movement, has broken or become detached. I've never had much success in repairing meter movements. I'd suggest you contact John Deere 1025R TLB, who just upgraded his instrument cluster to correct a cold start issue, and see if you could acquire his old one and salvage the meter movement from it. Here is the thread where he discusses his cold start issue:

http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/154081-got-my-1025r-my-2013-fixed.html
Nope, that was a warranty courtesy repair for giving them the idea on how to fix the cold start. The took the cluster. Sorry.

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The tachometers in these tractors, to me, do not behave like they even have a mechanical return spring, they move like a "digital" gauge with a needle. I'd be willing to bet with a new battery it would return to 0 like it's supposed to when shut down.

I could be entirely wrong though
 

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Dead battery... these JD batteries are known for it. I had the same issue, no warning or anything. 2012 1026R after about 3 years. shut the tractor off to disconnect the back hoe, tried to start it and nothing but clicks and dash going crazy. This tractor was stored indoors in environmentally controlled environment its entire life and was never left with anything on. Went and got a new battery, issue solved.
 

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Dead battery... these JD batteries are known for it. I had the same issue, no warning or anything. 2012 1026R after about 3 years. shut the tractor off to disconnect the back hoe, tried to start it and nothing but clicks and dash going crazy. This tractor was stored indoors in environmentally controlled environment its entire life and was never left with anything on. Went and got a new battery, issue solved.
If you have a charger that puts out at least a 10 amps ,hook up and see if all returns to normal, or a good set of jumper cables would do the trick too. If all is well then, I would not run it, as you can hurt the alternator. If she doesn't take a charge, buy the $100 buck battery and skip the $400 buck alternator.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

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Had the 1025 for a couple years without issues. Used it all winter, went to start it this morning and seems to be some sort of electrical issue. Disconnected and reconnected the battery without help.

Any thoughts, checked battery reads ok via voltmeter, and all the fuses seem fine.

Thanks
So what was the conclusion?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 
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