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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Bear with me on this thread. What I am about to post are just theories as to why 1). Some 1 series users are not able to get the 4" height of cut that deere lists the 1 series as getting and 2). Scalp issues with the 1 series MMM, particualriy the 60"

First off, I have a 1025r with the 60" MMM with the mulch kit installed. Tractor was delivered in June. I have done no adjustment on the deck so the height settings on my deck are obtained with dealer setup. With my deck in the lock position, the photo on the left shows the height that my deck is at. As you can see it's just shy of 5".

We normally mow two notches down from lock which you can see in the middle picture is a height of about 3 3/4". So I can easily get the 1-4" height that Deere claims for the 1 series.

My neighbor commented about how high I mow the grass and that I should cut it lower in the past. Yesterday when I mowed I got to thinking about this. I usually just lower the anti scalp wheels until the lynch pin hits. This lowers the wheels down obviously but not to the recommended 3/8" clearance that shows on the sticker on the deck and in the manual. I didn't worry about it, new tractor, will play. I wasn't looking for a golf course cut, just not taking 5-9 hours to mow. My neighbor said it took him over a year to get his anti scalp wheels set correctly. He was to the point of trading in his X728 for a X758 with the 54" deck. After his deck adjustments he doesn't get hardly any scalp and his yard when mowed looks like a golf course now.

I started to experiment yesterday and found out that as one that can mow at a cut height of greater than 3", I run into another problem. I removed the lynch pins and lowered the anti scalp wheels down as far as they will go. As you can see from the picture on the right, I am no where close to the 3/8" clearance that the anti scalp wheels are supposed to be set at, but I have no more holes to use in the adjustment. My neighbor and I did some measuring and it appears that the shafts on the wheels would need to be about 4" longer and have three more holes in order to get the 3/8" height on the anti scalp wheels. Having the brackets the wheels mount in be straight out from the deck and parallel with the ground would gain some extra adjustment as well.

So theory one is that the 4" cut height can be obtained, but you can't set the anti scalp wheels low enough to properly cut at the 4" height. The shaft on the anti scalp wheels isn't long enough. Could this be why some users have the scalping issues? I measured the anti scalp wheels on my neighbors X728 and they are the same length as mine. He has his deck set to mow at 3 1/4" height. The X700 series has inch increments on the cut height knob.

Theory number two ties into theory number one. If you read the manual and look at the sticker on the deck itself, it shows that the pins placed in the top hole of the anti scalp wheels is 3". OK. Those of you that can't get a cut height greater than three inches, what are the chances that the deck was setup as follows: Lower anti scalp wheels down and lock in lowest position (3" according to sticker). Lower mower deck until the 3/8" clearance between anti scalp wheels and hard surface is achieved. Set this as the max cut height on the deck.

I am no expert by any means and by this thread I don't want to deter anybody from buying a 1 series as I love the tractor. These are just theories about some of the complaints users of the 1 series tractors have when using a mid mount mower. I plan on giving the dealer a call tomorrow just to run it by him. Maybe the 2 series or 3 series anti scalp wheels have a longer shaft and will swap over? Maybe I need to lower my mower deck and cut lower? I did check the deck and it is set up correctly from front to back and it is level from side to side. Again, these are just theories as to why some users have the issues with the decks on the 1 series.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
For comparison, here are a couple pictures of my neighbors yard. Mowed yesterday.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1409594905.920032.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1409594917.217752.jpg


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Guys,

I've noticed that this year I am achieving a more even cut (much less scalping on the downhill side when traversing a slope). The only thing I'm doing differently is I'm mowing at a slower ground speed while still keeping the PTO speed around 2,000 RPM. I also cut my grass fairly high (a click below the lock setting). Perhaps this information will be of help to someone who is having major scalping issues.
 

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For comparison, here are a couple pictures if my neighbors yard. Mowed yesterday.

View attachment 32270

View attachment 32271


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I thought the same thing when I had the 60" deck. The anti scalp shaft , or bolt, pin ,or what ever the correct name may be needed to be at least 1- 1 1/2" longer to get the anti scalp wheel closer to the ground. I had removed the top lynch pin and then locked the scalp wheel in the very top hole. Same for me I had about one inch under the wheel. Advised the shop foreman what I found , he tried several different things for me , but we never did change the length of the anti scalp rod.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Calling all 2000 series and 2025r/2032r owners with MMM

Could somebody that has a 2000 series, 2025r or 2032r and uses a MMM on it measure the length of the shaft the anti-scalp wheel has on it? Trying to determine if there is any difference in length between the different series of tractors/deck combinations. If you could get a diameter of the shaft that would be a big help as well.

thanks.
 

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Could somebody that has a 2000 series, 2025r or 2032r and uses a MMM on it measure the length of the shaft the anti-scalp wheel has on it? Trying to determine if there is any difference in length between the different series of tractors/deck combinations. If you could get a diameter of the shaft that would be a big help as well.

thanks.
2720/62D mower, anti-scalp wheel shaft is 6-7/8" long by 15/16" diameter.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
2720/62D mower, anti-scalp wheel shaft is 6-7/8" long by 15/16" diameter.
Hmmm. Just measured mine. 5-9/16" long by 15/16" diameter. Planning on stopping into dealer on my way into work tomorrow


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Bear with me on this thread. What I am about to post are just theories as to why 1). Some 1 series users are not able to get the 4" height of cut that deere lists the 1 series as getting and 2). Scalp issues with the 1 series MMM, particualriy the 60"

First off, I have a 1025r with the 60" MMM with the mulch kit installed. Tractor was delivered in June. I have done no adjustment on the deck so the height settings on my deck are obtained with dealer setup. With my deck in the lock position, the photo on the left shows the height that my deck is at. As you can see it's just shy of 5".

We normally mow two notches down from lock which you can see in the middle picture is a height of about 3 3/4". So I can easily get the 1-4" height that Deere claims for the 1 series.

My neighbor commented about how high I mow the grass and that I should cut it lower in the past. Yesterday when I mowed I got to thinking about this. I usually just lower the anti scalp wheels until the lynch pin hits. This lowers the wheels down obviously but not to the recommended 3/8" clearance that shows on the sticker on the deck and in the manual. I didn't worry about it, new tractor, will play. I wasn't looking for a golf course cut, just not taking 5-9 hours to mow. My neighbor said it took him over a year to get his anti scalp wheels set correctly. He was to the point of trading in his X728 for a X758 with the 54" deck. After his deck adjustments he doesn't get hardly any scalp and his yard when mowed looks like a golf course now.

I started to experiment yesterday and found out that as one that can mow at a cut height of greater than 3", I run into another problem. I removed the lynch pins and lowered the anti scalp wheels down as far as they will go. As you can see from the picture on the right, I am no where close to the 3/8" clearance that the anti scalp wheels are supposed to be set at, but I have no more holes to use in the adjustment. My neighbor and I did some measuring and it appears that the shafts on the wheels would need to be about 4" longer and have three more holes in order to get the 3/8" height on the anti scalp wheels. Having the brackets the wheels mount in be straight out from the deck and parallel with the ground would gain some extra adjustment as well.

So theory one is that the 4" cut height can be obtained, but you can't set the anti scalp wheels low enough to properly cut at the 4" height. The shaft on the anti scalp wheels isn't long enough. Could this be why some users have the scalping issues? I measured the anti scalp wheels on my neighbors X728 and they are the same length as mine. He has his deck set to mow at 3 1/4" height. The X700 series has inch increments on the cut height knob.

Theory number two ties into theory number one. If you read the manual and look at the sticker on the deck itself, it shows that the pins placed in the top hole of the anti scalp wheels is 3". OK. Those of you that can't get a cut height greater than three inches, what are the chances that the deck was setup as follows: Lower anti scalp wheels down and lock in lowest position (3" according to sticker). Lower mower deck until the 3/8" clearance between anti scalp wheels and hard surface is achieved. Set this as the max cut height on the deck.

I am no expert by any means and by this thread I don't want to deter anybody from buying a 1 series as I love the tractor. These are just theories about some of the complaints users of the 1 series tractors have when using a mid mount mower. I plan on giving the dealer a call tomorrow just to run it by him. Maybe the 2 series or 3 series anti scalp wheels have a longer shaft and will swap over? Maybe I need to lower my mower deck and cut lower? I did check the deck and it is set up correctly from front to back and it is level from side to side. Again, these are just theories as to why some users have the issues with the decks on the 1 series.
I agree with everything you are saying, this issue has been beating me up badly also, the gaging wheel shaft are definitely short to cut at a higher cut. I have actually been thinking about manufacturing some longer shafts. Sure seems like deere would notice this issue.:flag_of_truce:
 

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Very curious as to where this will end up! I love effective mods and I don't even own the 60D, but I will most likely next year.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Stopped by the dealer

Stopped at the dealer on my way into work. Talked with the sales guy about it and found that I am not their first customer to bring this up. I need to take some measurements of how far off the gauge wheels are when at my current mowing height and how much longer the shaft on the wheels needs to be. He will then forward that information to John Deere and see what we get. I asked about if the wheels from a 2 series would fit (which according to dieselshadows tape measure they will). The diameter is the same but the shaft length is an inch longer on the 2 series. Dealer stated it may work but he questioned the actual wheels possibly being an issue as the wheels on a 2 series are wider? No idea as I don't have a 2 series. He also wondered about the lift height of those that have the mechanical lift versus hydrualic lift versus independent lift.

At any rate the dealer has heard of the issue and is willing to track down a solution, whatever it may be.
 

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Cool!
 

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Cheesetrain - what lift type are you utilizing on your machine?
 

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The wheels on the two series are larger in diameter, but are skinnier. They may not be able to swivel without hitting the deck or rear tractor tires.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1409847592.297907.jpg
 

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Wonder if the 1 series 60D wheel could be put on the longer 2 series 62D shaft? Will have to check to see if just the wheel shaft off the 62D is available. Thinking it can't be all that expensive to try out the theory? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Independent lift

Cheesetrain - what lift type are you utilizing on your machine?
I've got the independent lift on my 1025r and love it. My tractor was the first one my dealer setup with the independent lift. They usually recommend the mechanical lift.
 

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I have been lurking here since Jan this year. Thanks to all the great advice. The 60 mmm deck has been a problem for me also especially since I do mow a rough yard at 3 3/4 inch. I like the rest of you have measured and adjusted till I'am exhausted. Finally the other day I dropped the bogie wheels all the way down and got a beautiful cut, no scalping no lines anywhere. So as you guys have been discussing the wheels being too high is a problem with this deck. Now when you lower them that low you have to take out the top pin that prevents them from falling out. So when you raise the deck up and release the adjuster pins the wheels fall down and jam the deck so it won't go down all the way. PIA Get off tractor pick up deck and remount wheels. I came up with this solution. Took some i inch steel stock 2 inch long welded them and drilled a couple of holes.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Wonder if the 1 series 60D wheel could be put on the longer 2 series 62D shaft? Will have to check to see if just the wheel shaft off the 62D is available. Thinking it can't be all that expensive to try out the theory? :)
Based on Jason's photo of his deck I'd have to say the wheels from a 1 series deck wouldn't fit on the 2 series deck shaft. The mounts are differnet on the back wheels. Jason's 62D deck the back wheels are a bolt that extends through the wheel and the wheel is to the side of the shaft. On the 60D deck on a 1 series all four wheels are like the front ones on Jason's deck except they do not swivel.
 

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I have been lurking here since Jan this year. Thanks to all the great advice. The 60 mmm deck has been a problem for me also especially since I do mow a rough yard at 3 3/4 inch. I like the rest of you have measured and adjusted till I'am exhausted. Finally the other day I dropped the bogie wheels all the way down and got a beautiful cut, no scalping no lines anywhere. So as you guys have been discussing the wheels being too high is a problem with this deck. Now when you lower them that low you have to take out the top pin that prevents them from falling out. So when you raise the deck up and release the adjuster pins the wheels fall down and jam the deck so it won't go down all the way. PIA Get off tractor pick up deck and remount wheels. I came up with this solution. Took some i inch steel stock 2 inch long welded them and drilled a couple of holes.
I was just going to say that it sounds like a little fabrication work is in order and my Miller MIG will come in handy for this! Sounds like this is the best option for the optimal solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I was just going to say that it sounds like a little fabrication work is in order and my Miller MIG will come in handy for this! Sounds like this is the best option for the optimal solution.
Looking more and more like it yes. Unfortunately I don't have a welder. I know how to and have used an arc welder many times but don't own a welder. That may have to change......


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Heck, if I had the 60D now, I'd make this mod myself and then offer the service to other GTT members via mail for a small fee but wouldn't want to do that without actually trying it out on my own deck first...
 
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