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Looking for a little info. Our property is not extremely hilly, nor are the hills overly steep. However whenever possible I try to go straight up or down the hills. Sometimes I do need to change direction on the hills and there is enough of a slope to make me pretty nervous. I've read with other tractors that dual rear tires make a huge improvement on side hill stability. I cannot find an option for duals on the 1025 and I cannot find any info on anyone that's done it yet. The fact is that I'm going to have to side hill some times. I hope that the rops and the seatbelt would save me if there is a problem, but I pray that I NEVER need to test that.

Some things I already do is keep the bucket as lightly loaded as possible and keep it almost touching the ground when on the hill. I make the side hill turns to a minimum and make them as slow as possible to get a constant feel for stability. I do not have my tires filled, but could do that if that helps lower the center of gravity. Any more weight on the tractor is going to cause problems too, because some areas, when muddy, stay muddy for quite some time. I'm thinking that going with the duals would also help float me more when conditions are muddy.

If the thought here is that duals is the way to go with this I guess I'll call the dealer to see what they could do for me. What does everyone think?

Thanks.
 

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I've got my rears filled with Rimguard (according to dealer 110lb in each) and I have been really impressed with the side-hill stability of the tractor, however I don't have the loader or anything other than the mowing deck installed when I'm going along the hills sideways. I'll have to go out and measure the hill - my old lawn tractor used to lift the upper tire unless I leaned uphill.

I also shift into 4wd low when I'm going along the side hill.
 
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You may not be as dumb/adventuresome as I, but here's what I did first time out with the 1026r/54D. I already knew my GX335's limitations on my side hills, I haven't dumped it in 10 years, slid sideways some, but never actually lifted the uphill wheel.

I drove the 1026 onto the side hill on a point that was about ½ of the steepest angle. I rolled ahead slowly letting my "SOPI" (Seat Of Pants Indicator) indicator give me feedback and stopped in the middle of the steepest part and shut down the engine. "Wiggle, wiggle", nothing. Tried again more agressively, "WIGGLE, WIGGLE!" while yanking on the uphill handle. Still solid. Started the engine, engaged 4WD and turned down the slope with nary a slip.

The 1026/54D is far more secure feeling on that slope, sideways, up and down hill using appropriate 4WD and/or DiffLock. (Must remember to take it out of both of those to turn at the bottom or top!!!) My machine is equipped w/R4 tires, "Turfs" results may vary and always test on DRY grass.

Some put all their trust in a "Slope Angle Gauge", but you have to go out on a hill and find the roll center first anyway so you know what degree of angle is actually the cut off. I'll put my SOPI against any gauge, once I've tested a hill I'm home free...
 
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Widen the tractor

You could move the tires out and thereby widen the stance. Take a tape measure and measure the distance from the outside of the rim to the rim bolts on the inside and the outside. If the inside measurement is bigger, than swap the left side tires for the right and you will have a more stable tractor. Note that your tractor MAY now be wider than some of your implements and that might be a problem depending on the situation.
 

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You could move the tires out and thereby widen the stance. Take a tape measure and measure the distance from the outside of the rim to the rim bolts on the inside and the outside. If the inside measurement is bigger, than swap the left side tires for the right and you will have a more stable tractor. Note that your tractor MAY now be wider than some of your implements and that might be a problem depending on the situation.
The one series tractors already have the rims installed in the wide position. I don't think they can be installed any other way.
 

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Dadgummit.....you guys!:nunu:

You're supposed to encourage him putting on duals!!! I think it would be cool as heck. May even approach suave and debonair territory

As well as being so much more better in the soft ground, chicks will dig it, too! :thumbup1gif:
 

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Dadgummit.....you guys!:nunu:

You're supposed to encourage him putting on duals!!! I think it would be cool as heck. May even approach suave and debonair territory

As well as being so much more better in the soft ground, chicks will dig it, too! :thumbup1gif:
The guys with backhoes have had to invest in wheel spacers if they want to use chains. I think they put the wheels out 1" per side. That will give you a bit more width to work with.

As others have stated, Fluid in the tires or wheel weights give you a good bit more stability. If you have muddy areas the wheel weights could be removed if needed for those chores.

I'd like to see the duals.... You might have zilch for traction, but it would look pretty cool!:greentractorride:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I think it would look cool too. I was kind of hoping that everyone would say duals is the only way to go. Then I could tell my wife I have to do this, it's only for safety.

I guess I should start with the filled tires or weights first to see if it feels more stable.

Thanks for the input.
 

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Duals is the only way to go - you know - for safety.

You can quote me on that for the wife :laugh:
 

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I think it would look cool too. I was kind of hoping that everyone would say duals is the only way to go. Then I could tell my wife I have to do this, it's only for safety.

I guess I should start with the filled tires or weights first to see if it feels more stable.

Thanks for the input.
Ok, I'll go with that.

Duals are the only way to go!

Just let me know how you explain having to custom machine a wheel adapter.....

You have several options to load the tires. You can do it yourself and use something inexpensive like windshield washer fluid (depending on your winter temps) to give it a try and see if it has the improvement you are looking for. But this would only be a temporary fix while you get the duals setup.
 

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First, I want to clear up that "BH frame/tire chain" thing. For anyone considering chains on a 1xxx series and BH: With R4 tires AND the backhoe frame I found that all my original hoo-hah about it was totally unnecessary! Plowed all winter w/o the 1" spacers that I had already bought and no clearance issues. The cross chains find their spaces in between the tread lugs and stay there. There's absolutely NO ISSUE at all. (My sincere apologies to John Deere on this matter!:laugh:)

Second, when considering "duals", in addition to the "wider than the attachment/mower" issue, consider the "traction issue". On a nice lawn or sparse "more dirt than grass" duals will try to dislodge sod on tight turns and do NOT provide more traction. The added "float" of the extra tire contact can reduce traction. (Of course, the traction lost with the tractor laying on it's side should be food for thought...) Everything that adds stability is going to add weight, another consideration when running on "nice lawn". Keep the weight as close to the tractor's center line and close to the rear of the machine as possible...
 
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I don't think you'll get duals on a 1 series if you have a mower. They will interfere with the mower deck.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
No mower deck. I have too many low hanging branches to mow with this tractor. Kept a zero turn for the mowing duties.
 

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Duals are great for stability and that's where it stops.
Had duals on my old GT with 48" loader bucket and they were absolutely necessary on my hillside property. But for snow/mud any kind of traction needs they are the worst thing you can have on there.
I got my 1025r tlb and went out back, oh my, very nervous I was and it felt like it would tip without to much trouble. That was February, 40hrs later I doesn't seem near as unstable, Guess I'm getting used to the extra height from the gt and just used to the tractor in general. I dropped the loader and the hoe and put the mower deck on for the first time the other night and it felt more stable with the deck on than it does with fel and hoe on there. No fluid or weight on tires yet but its in my future. Just use your head and don't be trying to "spin" the thing around on side hills.
By the way I think duals look silly on just the back of a small tractor ,you should do both ends, front and rear, now that would be safest,symetrical and look cool!!
 
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The mower is about the best ballast you can have on slopes. It's heavy and as low and centered on the tractor.

The loader and backhoe is a different story. They both add a lot of weight much higher. I almost tipped my new-to-me 1026R with the loader and a full ballast box. That was scary to say the least.... At least with the hoe, you can swing it to the uphill side to be a good counterweight.
 

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The mower is about the best ballast you can have on slopes. It's heavy and as low and centered on the tractor.

The loader and backhoe is a different story. They both add a lot of weight much higher. I almost tipped my new-to-me 1026R with the loader and a full ballast box. That was scary to say the least.... At least with the hoe, you can swing it to the uphill side to be a good counterweight.[/QUOTE]

100% unvarnished truths here!:laugh: That BH is very handy for sidehill ballast... IF... you get to the swing lever quick enough as you start the wingover! First time experimenting transport with FEL/BH next to my shop I almost didn't make it! Misjudged the slope and roll center of my new prize and nearly went no-no right there! Just as Jason sez, with just the mower deck on there it really feels stable mowing my hills. The best part is the side traction it gets vs. the smaller lighter R3 tired GX.
 
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