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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m about a year into a 1025.

it definitely does my main jobs, which include mowing and snow removal.

While more horsepower is always something most of us want, I generally don’t need that for my tractor chores.

What I DO find myself wanting is more clearance for implements on the 3pt hitch (ballast, rear blade...)

In my head, I have started wondering if I should start looking at a trade to a 2025.

I could keep my loader, but I’d have to trade back the tractor and mower deck.

My suspicion is I’d take a bath financially on this. I took 60mo no interest on the 1025 at purchase and put down about 20-25% at purchase.

Talk me off the ledge...?
 

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I owned a Kubota BX for 10 years and have owned a 2025r for 2 years. There are a lot of benefits to a 2025r but 3 point lift height isn’t one of them. In own a ballast box and a cone type fertilizer spreader, they are fine. I own a 6 foot rear blade, it’s just ok and that’s with the top link shortened most of the way to lift it as high as possible. I also have a brush hog that I don’t use often but the lift height is very low for it, it works but you really have to watch the tail wheel.

I have no regrets trading in the little Kubota for my JD but for the Kubota being smaller it had much better 3 point geometry. It lifted higher. I know the right side of my JD has an adjustable link, you can add one to the left side also to help with lift height, this might help with your current tractor.
 

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Did you try replacing the left side link with an adjustable link. Doing that got my 3 point up 27 inches off the floor

784400
 

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Well, you wont gain 3pt height with a 2025 over the 1025. You SHOULD, but Deere didnt design it that way. You can, as a work around, add a second adjustable link, as many of us have done, to gain extra height, but you can do that on the 1025 too. In my mind, you shouldnt need to on either, but here we are.
You do gain more stability with larger implements, because its heavier longer, wider? (cant remember on that one, but I think its a couple inches wider), and a bit more loader lift capacity, a better ride due to longer wheelbase, and to me, a better operators station. But if you really want more lift height on the 3pt, get the 2032.
 

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my 2 cents.....

I had a 1023 for 5 years. I liked it. But I traded up to a 2025 a year ago. I wasn't worried about 3 point height, however I did want better ride, ground clearance, better seat, bigger tires etc. Couple extra hp was a bonus too.

Could have sold the 1023 myself, probably would have done better moneywise, but trading was quick & easy, dealer took pretty good care of me. There's no timing issue on a trade either: The 2025 took 2-3 months, so I wasn't without a method to mow at all. Nor do I think he needed to sit on the 1023 long either - it was gone from his front row in under 2 months
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I never thought of adding an adjustable link to the left side. That’s a great idea!
 

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I never thought of adding an adjustable link to the left side. That’s a great idea!
It is a good thing to do. I did it to my 2025r and added a shorter top link from TSC and it works great for when I need extra lift height like when loading it on a trailer or backing it back off. I can shorten the top link pretty quickly and easily before loading it on the trailer and then lengthen it after it's unloaded.
 

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I am kind a in the same boat with my 2025R, bought it for higher clearance but not getting it, blade almost drags on concrete when going into garage!
Explain this adjustable link thing a ma bob a little more and what do they normally run$
any photos would help also.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

It’s the exact same thing you have already on the right side of your 3pt hitch to adjust tilt.

With one on each side you can shorten them both up and cause the hitch to lift higher.
 

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That will help, only thing that could be a con is not being able to grab implements with the iMatch, I had adjusted the top link all the way for more lift but soon realized now the angle was off to hook up an implement (to straight).
Unless you cad angle the top hook on the iMatch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I figured I’d put an extended hook on it from KBOH, plus I’ve been able to reach and adjust the top link from the seat so I’ve done that before, too, to fine tune the top link length for better iMatch pickup/release.
 

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That will help, only thing that could be a con is not being able to grab implements with the iMatch, I had adjusted the top link all the way for more lift but soon realized now the angle was off to hook up an implement (to straight).
Unless you cad angle the top hook on the iMatch?
Power top link might be a good solution for you. You can tilt the top hook out, when hitching up and pull it all the way in for Max clearances on things like rear plow blades or about anything on your three point.
‘I have it on all my tractors even have one on my X758.
784505
784506
 

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Did you try replacing the left side link with an adjustable link. Doing that got my 3 point up 27 inches off the floor

View attachment 784400
I put two adjustable links on mine. Just order the adjustable one on the right side. It is reversible.

rob
 
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I owned a Kubota BX for 10 years and have owned a 2025r for 2 years. There are a lot of benefits to a 2025r but 3 point lift height isn’t one of them. In own a ballast box and a cone type fertilizer spreader, they are fine. I own a 6 foot rear blade, it’s just ok and that’s with the top link shortened most of the way to lift it as high as possible. I also have a brush hog that I don’t use often but the lift height is very low for it, it works but you really have to watch the tail wheel.

I have no regrets trading in the little Kubota for my JD but for the Kubota being smaller it had much better 3 point geometry. It lifted higher. I know the right side of my JD has an adjustable link, you can add one to the left side also to help with lift height, this might help with your current tractor.
Many adjustments to 3ph lift with multiple holes in the lift arms. I've a tool box just behind the seat. Mine lifts and almost up against the toolbox.
 

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I too did the adjustable links on both sides.
Which I do have more height now, but now I am finding that I can't lower the 3pt enough to get under a lot of attachments setting on the ground, so I am now setting as many attachments down on skids to help resolve that issue.
 

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I had a lemony 1025R for near 2 years. Went to a 2025R, a terrific tractor except for PTO switch and PTO electrical in between (forgot what they're called). Had the front Ujoint greased at 200 hours by JD to prevent it from blowing apart like the one did on the 4010 I had for near 9 years and 660 hours.
 

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I too did the adjustable links on both sides.
Which I do have more height now, but now I am finding that I can't lower the 3pt enough to get under a lot of attachments setting on the ground, so I am now setting as many attachments down on skids to help resolve that issue.
I'm finding the same thing, I'm wondering if a 3025e wouldn't be the fix for me now that I have a dedicated mower. The 2025r is a great little tractor though, just wish it was a full cat 1.
 
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I'm finding the same thing, I'm wondering if a 3025e wouldn't be the fix for me now that I have a dedicated mower. The 2025r is a great little tractor though, just wish it was a full cat 1.
Always say you can have enough tractors. LOL 😁

I went from a 1 series to the 2038R to the 4044R and later back to a 2025R. I do admit that I still have larger machines for the heavy work.

But I have learned that some jobs just require a smaller machine. For me the 2025R I have found to be the best compromise for one of the smallest you can get, yet still very capable.

When looking at larger machines, I do tend to recommend a 3R over a large frame 2R unless mowing is primary use, they are just so close in actual size and the 3R gets you quite a bit more capability in nearly the same footprint. The large frame 2Rs do have a better mowing system then the 3Rs.
 
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