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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

Have a 1025r. I'm doing 200 hour service and have drained the hydraulic fluid. 1025r is from 2013 I believe. My problem is the drain plug on the transmission housing. I've already replaced the plug with part number R27218. It will screw enough to stay in the housing but not tight enough to get me any confidence it won't fall out when I hit a bump... should I just go with a slightly larger self-tapping bolt?

Thank you... you guys are always a life saver.

Cody
 

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What happens when you try to tighten it? Does it simply turn and strip the threads?

When you had the plug out did the threads on the transmission housing look okay?

I'm assuming your tractor is out of warranty. Did you purchase it new?
 

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Hoo-boy...if it's the correct plug, your threads in the tranny housing are stripped (my greatest paranoia with aluminum anything). If you haven't yet, don't fill the tranny yet, you should fix it with a metric heli coil kit. here's an example. you need to determine, for sure, the correct threads of the plug, to find the right kit. If you're at all not confident, have a machinist do it, it needs to be drilled and tapped STRAIGHT and perpendicular to the housing, to seal when it's fixed. Then, you'll want to use a good ptfe sealant like Real Tuff to keep it from leaking.

http://m.oreillyauto.com/h5/r/www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/HEL0/554312.oap?pt=N0672
 

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Unfortunately you need to pull that plug to check/repair the case threads. Either that or keep your fingers crossed until the next go round.
 

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I wish all the tractor manuals gave torque specs for the various drain plugs. Unfortunately the service manual for the 2720 doesn't list specs for any of the drain plugs.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Friends,

Thanks for all the help. I've learned a lot about taps over the last couple weeks. I retapped the drain plug hole using a 5/8 plug-type tap (11). It could be a mistake but ended up using a coarse thread style and stainless steel bolt. I put a rubber-type washer on the bolt. I'm hoping this will be the end of my problems with the drain plug!

Thanks.

Cody
 

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as long as it doesn't leak, you're all set, wise decision to fix it!
 

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When I did the first transmission oil change on my 1025r the drain plug was crazy tight. Had to tap the wrench with a hammer to break it loose. Problem is that if I don't put it back that tight it drips. I thought about putting a rubber washer on so maybe I don't have to tighten it so tight.

Hopefully the OP has solved his problems with leaks now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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When I did the first transmission oil change on my 1025r the drain plug was crazy tight. Had to tap the wrench with a hammer to break it loose. Problem is that if I don't put it back that tight it drips. I thought about putting a rubber washer on so maybe I don't have to tighten it so tight.

Hopefully the OP has solved his problems with leaks now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
See my previous post with the link to Real Tuff ptfe thread sealant, put some on the last 3 or 4 threads of your drain plug and a little on both sides of the washer, and you won't have to crank it down so tight. It's really good stuff. It seals the threads on water line fittings.
 
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