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Hi all,
I love my 1025r, but I've always hated how the side panels come off. It's absurd. A bolt?? Two tools?! Go home, John Deere, you're drunk.

So I came up with a better way. About $4 in parts overall from TSC.

I hope you guys enjoy this and that it works as well for you as it did for me.

 

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Hi All
Great I dear mike. How often do you remove the side covers, I probably have mine off maybe twice a year. I am curious at to why this would be an annoyance.
Regards John
I remove them every time I clean the tractor.

But it doesn't really matter. If I want to remove them, I want it to be simple. Maybe if it were simple you'd remove them more often! :)

The point is...it's a dumb design. Like that nub of a diff lock pedal. I got Ken's extension for that and it's much better. I don't like dumb designs. They offend me.
 

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I've owned a 1026 and now 1025 over the past 4 or 5 yrs. One of the 1st things I did was remove the bolts holding side covers .

280 hrs now on the 1025r , have never lost a side panel.:dunno::dunno:

:munch:
 

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I've owned a 1026 and now 1025 over the past 4 or 5 yrs. One of the 1st things I did was remove the bolts holding side covers .

280 hrs now on the 1025r , have never lost a side panel.:dunno::dunno:

:munch:

Yeah, but now that you said that...
 

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I remove them every time I clean the tractor.

But it doesn't really matter. If I want to remove them, I want it to be simple. Maybe if it were simple you'd remove them more often! :)

The point is...it's a dumb design. Like that nub of a diff lock pedal. I got Ken's extension for that and it's much better. I don't like dumb designs. They offend me.
I like it. Easy, inexpensive, and elegant.

I must say that's the cleanest engine I've seen on a tractor that is actually being used.

And, how is the second box on the rear mounted? Are you able to connect/disconnect a rear PTO shaft without removing it?
 

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Yeah, but now that you said that...
Never lost a side panel or have had any issues of removing the two bolts , If I'm not mistaken my dealers shop foreman or one of the mechanics asked me if I wanted them to leave the bolts outs , when they were doing work under the hood. They put them back in for some customers that think since JD put them on at the factory they need to be there all the time.
:dunno:

For me never noticed any different with or without them in place.:dunno: IMO they are there for shipping reasons.
 

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I like it. Easy, inexpensive, and elegant.

I must say that's the cleanest engine I've seen on a tractor that is actually being used.
Thanks! That's why I take off the side panels, to clean it! :)

And, how is the second box on the rear mounted? Are you able to connect/disconnect a rear PTO shaft without removing it?
I put that on there when that iMatch was on my x758 and I was jealous of the 1 series tool box. :)

It's a u-bolt covered in electrical tape. I drilled holes in the box and put a washer and nut to hold it on there. And yeah, it doesn't get in the way of a PTO shaft.
 

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Mike01. Pretty smart. I have dropped my wrench inside several times. One thing to watch out for is the headlight screws. Those things eat you up. I ended up putting rubber caps over them.

Etcallhome. I never thought of just leaving them out. That side panel won't go anywhere.
 

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Remember back "in the ol' days" when tractors had NO SIDE covers? They ran OK and far longer than today's plasticated designs... When tractor mfg'ers started pitching to "estate ladies" who might do a mow now and then tractors took on a less manly look. Tractors today resemble a Coach purse or high heel pumps more than a working machine.:laugh:
 

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Remember back "in the ol' days" when tractors had NO SIDE covers? They ran OK and far longer than today's plasticated designs... When tractor mfg'ers started pitching to "estate ladies" who might do a mow now and then tractors took on a less manly look. Tractors today resemble a Coach purse or high heel pumps more than a working machine.:laugh:
Well said. Some of the newer tractors remind me of boulevard cruisers with the way they have the fenders sitting so close to the tires. It's sad that you have to buy spacers these days just to use tire chains.
 

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Great idea Mike, thanks for the tip. True it only takes a moment to pull the bolt but I agree, why? I'll be popping in a couple of pins to mine.
 

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The 2210 has a similar set up as the video. I am surprised the r model 1 series is not like that. I like being able to slip out a couple of clips and having access. My 3025e has the bolt for some reason on the front in then a little metal piece you twist and slide through the panel on the side by the firewall, which I think is a step backwards. My 400 GT has at least 3 bolts on each side and is a real PIA. So on three different generations of tractors you see advancement in ease of maintenance and then regression.

To me the easier the access to the engine the more likely you are to work/service it etc. JD could do a bit more to make it easier to access areas of their tractors for service. I hated to do anything with my 2210 that wasn't engine related because it usually meant the seat/fender pan had to come off. That was not an easy task.
 

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Remember back "in the ol' days" when tractors had NO SIDE covers? They ran OK and far longer than today's plasticated designs... When tractor mfg'ers started pitching to "estate ladies" who might do a mow now and then tractors took on a less manly look. Tractors today resemble a Coach purse or high heel pumps more than a working machine.:laugh:
deerepurse.jpg deereshoes.jpg
 

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Well said. Some of the newer tractors remind me of boulevard cruisers with the way they have the fenders sitting so close to the tires. It's sad that you have to buy spacers these days just to use tire chains.
I sweated that one out when I got my 1026r TLB, saw so many posts about clearance. True, you can't get a pinky finger between the R4 lugs and the BH frame, BUT, cross chains settle nicely into the spaces between the lugs and I've not had one catch in 3 winters.


O M G!!! THAT IS FUNNY!
:lol::laugh::bigthumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hey you guys complaining that modern tractors are pretty and have side panels, I came up with a fix/improvement for you too! I didn't want you to feel left out.:good2:

Here you go.

1. Using two 10mm wrenches, remove the bolts and nuts holding the side panels in place.
2. Remove both side panels.
3. Throw them away.
4. Be manly like in the olden days.

https://imgflip.com/i/1okg48
 

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Nice mod!
Thinking the clevis vs the bolt is a $$$ decision by JD?
I recall American airlines did a study in the 80's on reducing costs and they found if they removed one olive from the salad it saved 40,000$ per year.
JD is staying alive in the face of stiff competition, lawsuits, goofy regulations, skyrocketing healthcare costs, inflation, etc! Local Metal dealer told me the price on every shipment received is going up! Seems every cent of profit on these models is more important than ever before to their bottom line.

I like your mod, but I see where they are coming from. Next step could be to offer no side panels? One piece plastic hood/sides- then no bolt or clevis!.
 

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To me the easier the access to the engine the more likely you are to work/service it etc. JD could do a bit more to make it easier to access areas of their tractors for service. I hated to do anything with my 2210 that wasn't engine related because it usually meant the seat/fender pan had to come off. That was not an easy task.
Never know... might be part of their plan. Make it too easy & less people taking them to the dealer for routine service/maintenance.....:gizmo:
 

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Great idea! Thanks for sharing. :thumbup1gif:

I am sure they used a bolt and nut since imbedding metal into the receiving plastic could probably not take the cycles of loosening and lighting required. Also they don't work well in a high thermal expansion area which you are also dealing with. So the good old bolt and nut would stand up better over time.

Your pin idea may supplant that. I am sure they can design in a pin connection that is more exotic than your simple TSC solution. If they make a proprietary pin size etc they can also change $25 for it at the dealer when you loose it. :gizmo:
 
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