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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all! I just received my 2019 1025r. Really happy with the machine, except the previous owner took no care of it. It has a lot of rust. They could have stored it in a salt pile that wouldn't surprise me. I'm going to take everything I can appart and make it new again.

I had a real hard time removing the 120r loader. The left clamp you have to lift to detach the loader from the tractor is really, really stuck. The only way I could remove it was with a hammer and a piece of wood.

I found the parts diagram online and can see that I should be able to remove the pin that hold the clamp, but it is completely stuck.

Anyone has any idea where I should start with this? The following diagram, part #9 is the one I'm trying to remove.
790495
 

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If you uncurl your bucket onto the ground it helps push the cylinders down to free up the clamp. Sometimes wiggling it up and down while keeping pressure on ground helps. If it’s really rusted there some PB Blaster stayed liberally and left overnight can’t hurt.

I only know my experience with mine and don’t know the condition of yours but I had the same issue and found the remedy by leveraging the bucket on the ground. Hope this helps. I’ve never looked into removing the clamp
 

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I will second the use of bucket curling to move pressure on/off the lock handle.

I'll say a shot or two of penetrating spray is a great idea. Plenty of options. I keep 4 different ones on my shelf. Newest one and most effective I've ever used is "Angry Farmer" Sounds like your description that this thing just sat outside a lot and we all know what happened to metal with that treatment. Luckily the machine is pretty young and should have everything freed up in no time. Good luck!
 

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Welcome to GTT!

I'm very curious about the condition of your 1025R. It sounds like the prior owner treated it pretty poorly. Can you post some photos? I wouldn't imagine a 2019 could be in that bad of shape. How many hours are on your machine?
 

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I assume that you used the hydraulics to lift the weight from the front end of the tractor and the two FEL latches before you tried raising the latches, and that you have the H120 loader. And that you do not have access to the Operator's Manual for the loader. Just in case, here are the instructions from the loader manual. There are pictures of these steps in the loader manual as well.

1. Remove ballast box
2. Ensure loader is equipped with a materials bucket.
3. Start tractor engine
4. Release parking brake and place transmission in neutral.
5. Dump bucket approximately 20 degrees and lower boom to the ground.
6. Retract cylinders to raise front wheels 1-2 inches off the ground.
7. Push handles upward to release latches.
8. Extend lift cylinders until parking stand contacts the ground and mast pins lift out of mounting frame saddles.
9. Retract bucket cylinders until latches automatically return to locked (down) position.

The remainder is about relieving hydraulic pressure in the system and then disconnecting the hydraulic couplers.

Once you got the loader off of the tractor, did the latches snap back down by themselves into the lock position, or did you need to persuade them with your hammer?

If the latches aren't locked, then you might have the devil of a time later when you go to reinstall the loader.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I assume that you used the hydraulics to lift the weight from the front end of the tractor and the two FEL latches before you tried raising the latches, and that you have the H120 loader. And that you do not have access to the Operator's Manual for the loader. Just in case, here are the instructions from the loader manual. There are pictures of these steps in the loader manual as well.

1. Remove ballast box
2. Ensure loader is equipped with a materials bucket.
3. Start tractor engine
4. Release parking brake and place transmission in neutral.
5. Dump bucket approximately 20 degrees and lower boom to the ground.
6. Retract cylinders to raise front wheels 1-2 inches off the ground.
7. Push handles upward to release latches.
8. Extend lift cylinders until parking stand contacts the ground and mast pins lift out of mounting frame saddles.
9. Retract bucket cylinders until latches automatically return to locked (down) position.

The remainder is about relieving hydraulic pressure in the system and then disconnecting the hydraulic couplers.

Once you got the loader off of the tractor, did the latches snap back down by themselves into the lock position, or did you need to persuade them with your hammer?

If the latches aren't locked, then you might have the devil of a time later when you go to reinstall the loader.
i did not do that last part. The right clamp can be moved with a finger, the left with a sledge hammer... should I put the bucket back on and do this last step?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Welcome to GTT!

I'm very curious about the condition of your 1025R. It sounds like the prior owner treated it pretty poorly. Can you post some photos? I wouldn't imagine a 2019 could be in that bad of shape. How many hours are on your machine?
Will do as soon as I can after work! Any advice on what to focus on will be welcome :)
 

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Will do as soon as I can after work! Any advice on what to focus on will be welcome :)
I'm just curious on the overall condition. You mentioned there was some rust, etc. Seems odd for such a new tractor. Any idea what the prior owner was doing with it?
 

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Early 2017 Vintage 1025R TLB (260/H120)
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TLDR: (Read some)
1: You should have a bucket/pallet forks/[loader mounted implement] attached to the JDQA frame before removing the loader.
2: Remove the "load" from the loader mast clamps by using the SCV to lower the loader on the ground which pushes the loader frame back towards the operator, releasing the load on the clamps.
3: Once the clamps are up, put the tractor in neutral, foot off brake and parking brake released - and "raise" the loader. This will cause the loader to lower its stand and usually will push the tractor back a few inches.
4: Once the loader is comfortably above the mount points: Shut off tractor (Edit: Apply parking brake), move the SCV in all directions to relieve hydraulic pressure (the loader will settle during this process) and disconnect the quick disconnects.
5: Back away.

Reconnecting is basically the opposite, however when doing the opposite of step three, I'll keep the tractor in L and make sure that my masts stay against the loader arms as I'm "lowering" the loader on to their perch. Lock the clamps, raise the loader and drive away!
 

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'20 1025R, 120R, 54D
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When was the last time that pin was greased? Did it actually take any grease?
 

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TLDR: (Read some)
1: You should have a bucket/pallet forks/[loader mounted implement] attached to the JDQA frame before removing the loader.
2: Remove the "load" from the loader mast clamps by using the SCV to lower the loader on the ground which pushes the loader frame back towards the operator, releasing the load on the clamps.
3: Once the clamps are up, put the tractor in neutral, foot off brake and parking brake released - and "raise" the loader. This will cause the loader to lower its stand and usually will push the tractor back a few inches.
4: Once the loader is comfortably above the mount points: Shut off tractor (Edit: Apply parking brake), move the SCV in all directions to relieve hydraulic pressure (the loader will settle during this process) and disconnect the quick disconnects.
5: Back away.

Reconnecting is basically the opposite, however when doing the opposite of step three, I'll keep the tractor in L and make sure that my masts stay against the loader arms as I'm "lowering" the loader on to their perch. Lock the clamps, raise the loader and drive away!
You need to add that when lowering the stand, it needs to go until the latches close again. If someone follows your directions exactly, their loader is going to be in a pile on the ground.
 

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Early 2017 Vintage 1025R TLB (260/H120)
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You need to add that when lowering the stand, it needs to go until the latches close again. If someone follows your directions exactly, their loader is going to be in a pile on the ground.
I almost never do it until the latches close again, I'd guess I'm 1/2" from that point, but haven't found it in a pile on the floor. :) - Likely I've just gotten lucky.
 

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I think it varies among loaders. Mine leaks down pretty fast, as I discovered the first time I removed it and came back a few days later to find it almost on the ground, and it had even moved a bit sideways at an angle. It was between two walls and I could not get the tractor close enough to connect the hoses. It took a lot of levering with a 6’ pry bar and a floor jack to lift it back up enough to be able to run the tractor under it far enough so the hoses would reach it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm just curious on the overall condition. You mentioned there was some rust, etc. Seems odd for such a new tractor. Any idea what the prior owner was doing with it?
The tractor was used for removing snow from a series of driveways. Which is also what I want to do.
 

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Early 2017 Vintage 1025R TLB (260/H120)
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'20 1025R, 120R, 54D
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I almost never do it until the latches close again, I'd guess I'm 1/2" from that point, but haven't found it in a pile on the floor. :) - Likely I've just gotten lucky.
If you're gonna gamble like that, make sure you can get the right side of the tractor (where the ports are) the the right side of the loader (where the hoses are). If it leaks down you'll need to connect the hoses to raise it up to mount it. I recall a thread when I first joined here where @SulleyBear talked about this very scenario.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Allright, so I'm soaking the thing in PB Buster right now and will let it work through the night. I'm gonna add some pictures here. I also just realised the bracket to hold the blower is bent.
790607
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Here are some pics like you guys asked. If you have advices on what I can do to make it new again, I'm all ears!!!!
The tractor itself, looks pretty good :).
790608


Hose connectors. Took me a half hour to undo these for the H120.
790609


Hoses on the underside don't look too good. Gonna have to find a way to improve this.

790610


The H120.

790611


Finally, the nasty clamp!

790612
 
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