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'20 1025R, 120R, 54D
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That's a lot of rust for a 2 yr old machine! :oops:
 
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I know you mentioned it was used for removing snow from driveways, but the amount of rust and the fact that it's labeled with the "L47" on the cab (I assume you did not label this) makes me think it was one of many commercially used machines that the company did not care about too much. They probably run the machines for a couple seasons and then sell them off.

I would definitely go through the entire unit and make sure the connections are tight. Also the rust on those hoses on the underside is pretty heavy! I wonder if it's worth just completely replacing them.

How many hours are on the machine?
 

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With that much rust it was probably used to plow driveways and parking lots that had been salted. They started having problems and got rid of it.
I know this doesn't help you, but I hope you got it for a good price.
 

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Good LORD, those hydraulic lines and couplers are a mess. I'd be a LOT more worried about that situation than having to apply a BFH to get the clamp pin out of the loader.

If it belonged to me, I'd probably bead blast everything that's coated with rust with walnut shell media to remove as much rust as possible and then paint with a "rust reformer" primer and then a coat of JD green. Hopefully, that will keep the rust at bay.

Best,
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Good LORD, those hydraulic lines and couplers are a mess. I'd be a LOT more worried about that situation than having to apply a BFH to get the clamp pin out of the loader.

If it belonged to me, I'd probably bead blast everything that's coated with rust with walnut shell media to remove as much rust as possible and then paint with a "rust reformer" primer and then a coat of JD green. Hopefully, that will keep the rust at bay.

Best,
Not far from what I’ve started doing, except I’m not equipped that much so I’m working with a drill and a soft brush! Any advice for the connectors? A product to help bring them back?
 

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Not far from what I’ve started doing, except I’m not equipped that much so I’m working with a drill and a soft brush! Any advice for the connectors? A product to help bring them back?
In theory, as long as they move freely and are not corroded inside, you should be OK. Get a liberal amount of lubricant into the small bearings that the outer shell of the coupler rides on. It may be more trouble to clean them up than to just replace them. When the crimp-on connectors on the hydraulic lines start leaking, that's going to suck. I suspect those lines are pricey.

In the winter, if you can't paint the parts, keep them coated with a film of oil to try to keep the salt water from eating things up.

Best,
 

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Got it for 25k CAD including a 400km delivery. Came with the cab, 52in blower, 60 inch hydraulics plow, 2nd function for the blower chute control and the output for rear hydro. New, in Canada, that's between 40 and 45k CAD.
Here are some pics like you guys asked. If you have advices on what I can do to make it new again, I'm all ears!!!!
The tractor itself, looks pretty good :).
View attachment 790608

Hose connectors. Took me a half hour to undo these for the H120.
View attachment 790609

Hoses on the underside don't look too good. Gonna have to find a way to improve this.

View attachment 790610

The H120.

View attachment 790611

Finally, the nasty clamp!

View attachment 790612
Boy oh Boy ... After seeing those pictures, If it had been me, I certainly would have backed away from buying this tractor.
Looks like it had been worked hard and put away wet ...
Guessing from the numbers on the fender, and your comment that it was used to remove snow, I'd speculate it was used commercially to spread salt... A lot of salt.

Good luck cleaning this neglected thing up.
 

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Looks like someone used a lot of salt
 
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
In theory, as long as they move freely and are not corroded inside, you should be OK. Get a liberal amount of lubricant into the small bearings that the outer shell of the coupler rides on. It may be more trouble to clean them up than to just replace them. When the crimp-on connectors on the hydraulic lines start leaking, that's going to suck. I suspect those lines are pricey.

In the winter, if you can't paint the parts, keep them coated with a film of oil to try to keep the salt water from eating things up.

Best,
Can I paint the oil lines? Once I scrubbed them of course.
 

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Can I paint the oil lines? Once I scrubbed them of course.
Yes, you can. And if you end up replacing them, I'd paint the new ones before installation. I'm still shocked to see that level of corrosion in such a short time frame, given that it wasn't sitting at the bottom of the ocean for 2 years.

Best,
 

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It sounds like you got it for a solid price in your local economy; that cab is going to be a lifesaver if you're moving snow.

What a crime about that rust though; still, I think you're going to get many years out of her, so long as you keep up on it all.
 

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Thankfully most of the surfaces and components of these tractors are painted so once you address the rusty parts and clean everything else you should have a nice tractor that will last for years to come. I would store it under roof from now on for sure

I'm thinking it must have been stored in the salt shed when not being worked in salty conditions.
 
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I would guess that the bulk of the rust damage was actually caused by hauling it down the road on a transport trailer from job to job and the salt spray from the towing vehicle has caused the majority of the damage, I live in Minnesota, that type of corrosion is hard to stop!
 

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I would guess that the bulk of the rust damage was actually caused by hauling it down the road on a transport trailer from job to job and the salt spray from the towing vehicle has caused the majority of the damage, I live in Minnesota, that type of corrosion is hard to stop!
That's a good point. We in Ohio here know that fun. A new truck is rust free till first snow.

When my wife and I visited Texas for first time I couldn't believe the old Chevy pickups around. I kept checking them out in parking lots like a hillbilly. Lol
 

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Ouch. I've walked away from less rusty vehicles and equipment than that... man I'd never wanna live where the roads are salted.

I'd replace those hydraulic lines for starters, you don't want one to develop a pinhole leak.
 

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I would guess that the bulk of the rust damage was actually caused by hauling it down the road on a transport trailer from job to job and the salt spray from the towing vehicle has caused the majority of the damage, I live in Minnesota, that type of corrosion is hard to stop!
This makes a lot more sense to me; hard to imagine at the slow speeds the tractor travels it picking up THAT MUCH salt on it’s own.

That said, personally I’d just replace the hyrdo lines full stock. I’d be nervous about the walls wearing too thin and risking a leak. Same with the threads on the ends of the lines.
 

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I would guess that the bulk of the rust damage was actually caused by hauling it down the road on a transport trailer from job to job and the salt spray from the towing vehicle has caused the majority of the damage, I live in Minnesota, that type of corrosion is hard to stop!
That's a good point, I didn't think of that.
 

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This makes a lot more sense to me; hard to imagine at the slow speeds the tractor travels it picking up THAT MUCH salt on it’s own.
(Not necessarily directed at you, Aggressorblue... just the statement and the thought that the tractor had to travel from place to place)

If the previous owner had used a salt spreader on the back, it could easily have corroded like that in a couple years, living its life doing nothing more than plowing/salting drives, parking lots and/or sidewalks. Especially if it never got a bath after each of its outings, and got stored in a heated area when not in use.

Post #22 above from TPS is probably the closest theory to the life this tractor has lived so far. A couple years ago my dealer had taken in a 2 yr old 1025 with Mauser cab, front broom, & salt spreader that was owned by Eaton Corp., in the next town over. My dealer said Eaton used it at one of their facilities to broom and salt sidewalks/walkways for the public and their employees. It was corroded slightly less than what the OP showed in his pictures. I looked the tractor over, including underneath and under the hood. I was amazed the every single bolt or nut I could find that wasn't painted had corrosion on it. Even ones that are tucked away to where you wouldn't think salt could get to them. The quick connect couplers for the FEL were showing corrosion but not nearly as bad as what the OP is showing. I thought about making an offer to my dealer for just the broom portion, but after seeing the corrosion everywhere, I thought no way. That broom would need a total disassembly, clean and paint job to get rid of all the hidden brine solution. I can't imagine what it would take to clean up the entire tractor.

My point is, it's not hard to phantom seeing this kind of corrosion on a tractor that lived its entire life at one facility. I can easily imagine the tractor I saw from Eaton had only ever been on a trailer twice in its life (not including the initial delivery to the dealer from Deere). Once from the dealer to Eaton, and once from Eaton back to the dealer.
 
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