Just had a brake Bell crack failure on my 2017, 1025R tractor, with cab. Shortly after working in a situation where the brakes were very important, I was fortunate enough to be on level ground in my driveway when the brakes failed. If it would have failed half an hour earlier, the tractor would have been upside down in a lake.
Examining the part I would not put a similar one back on. Instead I had a welding shop fabricate a replacement Bellcrank out of steel. How John Deere can provide a poorly-engineered part for their tractors it's beyond me.

Pictures of the “new & improved” Steel bellcrank would be interesting … 🤔

 

I never use my brakes except for parking. If I need to stop, I gently apply the reverse pedal. Been doing it since I got my 1026R in March 2013. I find it easier to do than having to move my left foot and releasing my right foot from the forward pedal. Started doing this when I got the 1026R because my 445 has the brake pedal on the right side and I never learned to use my left foot for anything other than the diff lock.

 

I never use my brakes except for parking.

Even though I live on flat land, I still find the brake (there is only one, in the transmission) useful for when I am approaching my truck with the loader. Just an extra assurance that I won't roll into it and crushtomize ("customize") the bodywork 😂

 

I believe this has been previously reported on the forum. I seem to recall there's also an improved replacement part available through JD.

 

Any chance of you finding this improved replacement part available through JD?
i found the same old CAST part for $100.00!
I did send an email to JD as suggested by apseydeere.
No injuries from this was being very lucky as I used the bucket to stop me on a slope.

 

This is what the John Deere parts book shows for this part on the 2017 1025r as well as all 1025r, regardless of year.

 

The brake bell crank for the U.S. 1026r (predecessor to the 1025r) is a different part than is used on the 1025r.

However, the brake bell crank used on the 1023e is the same as the part used on the 1025r.

 

I have to say, I do the same as Sundancer. Other than starting tractor and parking on hill my brake pedal don’t get used

 

That's exactly why brakes are super important on this tractor.

Go to start it and it has to be in neutral. No brakes and that tractor is taking off on you with nothing to stop it or you.

Made worse by the neutral "safety" switch which should be replaced by a brake pressure sensor so that the tractor can't roll away on you from being in neutral when you start it and go to accelerate and find out you're not in gear.

 

The one on my 2025R busted recently. It is the same part number.

 

Describe what happened in detail, for the benefit of those who might also have trouble in the future.

 

Everything was good, stepped on brake pedal and it stayed on the floor, no brakes. I was on flat ground, just after working at the lake, and using the brakes to stay in position. I was very fortunate it didn't fail at the Lake.

 

Same with mine. Just stepped on the pedal to set the park brake and it broke.

I kept the pieces of the old one thinking I might fab up something out of steel as the gentleman did on another thread recently. Really though, I don’t expect it to fail again.

 

Please send info about Brake Bellcrank Failure to "johndeerebrakefailure@gmail.com"
I am trying to determine how many Bellcranks have failed and have John Deere correct this hazard.
Thanks
Bill

 

If you have experienced a Front Brake Bellcrank failure please send information regarding this incident to:
johndeerebrakefailure@gmail.com
I am a consumer who experienced a brake failure on my 1025R tractor, and would like to see this problem corrected before another failure occurs. I feel that Brakes on a tractor are very important.
John Deere corporate is now investigating this problem, and any information you can supply to me will help determine how many of these Bellcranks have broken. The Canadian warehouse has sold more than 50 of these parts LCV31387.
Please reply.
Thank You
Bill

 

Another interesting case of the part being changed when the tractor model changed from the
North American 1026r produced in 2011 to 2012. Note the tractor serial number range.

Now, for the North American 1025r machine, produced 2013 to current model 2024 machines, broken down by tractor serial number range.....

Here is the parts page for the 2013 to late 2017 , early 2018 model machines. Note the part number used is LVU31387 for machines with the Serial Number of 1LV1025NR*100000-

.

Here are the Deere 1025r serial numbers shown of -1LV1025RRLHJ100000. Note the part number used, its the LVU28464, which is the same part number used on the 1026r models for North America, which were sold for 2011 to 2012.

These machines are not the same 1026r used in the Export machines sold outside of North America and continue to be sold currently.

Here is the part shown for the newest model 1025r, with the parking brake changed from the dash handle to the floor mounted pull handle on the right side of the machine. The same bell crank is used on these machines, despite the changes to the parking brake handle. The foot brake pedal remains the same on all machines....and the same bell crank is used with part number LVU31387, which is the part number used on the 2013 to late 2017 early 2018 1025r North American model machines. This is the same part number which also has shown failures in these earlier model machines.

Same illustration as above, just zoomed out to show all of the components and their application with the new hand brake lever for the parking brake. Part number of the bell crank remains LVU31387

In summary, the North American 1026r models which were the first release of this machine in 2011 and 2012, used the bell crank part number LVU28464, which sells for $64.79 in USA dealers as of the date of this writing. These machines have serial numbers of -1LV1026RAHJ2000000

When the model transitioned to the 1025r in 2013, the bell crank used became part number LVU31387 which sells for $85.96 current in USA dealers. This bell crank was used on 1025r machines with the serial numbers of 1LV1025NR*100000-

Then, beginning with Deere 1025r models with serial numbers shown in the parts book of -1LV1025RRLHJ100000. Note the part number used, its the LVU28464, which sells in the USA for $64.79. This is the original part user on the 1026r sold initially in the North American markets from 2011 to 2012.

This brings us to the 1025r models with serial number ranges of 1LV1025RLHJ100001-, which is once again using the bellcrank with the part number of LVU31387 and sells for $85.96 in the USA at this time. In other words, the bellcrank which has resumed being used is the one which existed on the first model 1025r as outlined above....

The next question is, what bell crank is used on the current model 1026r machines which are sold in the Global markets outside of North America. When a customer in Europe or Australia or other than the North American market purchases a new 1026r machine, this is the part used on their machine...

The answer is the European 1026r is using the same part on the bell crank as the North American 1025r which is the part number LVU31387 . However, the parts book will not allow me to save a screen shot to this posting from the European parts book. I have tried 3x and each time, this is the result. The screen shot from the Deere European parts book won't properly download. Here is the screen shot of the page in the creation of this post..

 

One of the big operational issues which new owners can find themselves in is when they shut down the tractor in gear on a slope. You can't start the tractor with the range selector in gear and with the gear tooth cut design, the tractor is very difficult to shift out of gear when there is a load on the machine. The gravity of the weight and the gears being engaged can be a real issue.

This happens by

• exiting the seat while in gear
• shifting in neutral and leaving the seat and bumping the H/L lever
• setting the brake, shifting in N, leaving the seat and bumping the H/L range lever
• Stalling the engine in gear

A neighbor down the road had his rented 1023e parked on a 10 degree grade and he got off the seat shutting down the engine. Of course, it won't start in gear. He was reefing very hard on the gear select lever and I told him to stop and we would try another approach. I thought for sure he was going to break off the H/L range lever and I wouldn't be surprised to learn he had damaged the fork, lever, etc.

I told him to get on the seat. I hooked a strap from my 1025r to his rear weight bracket on the 3ph. I pulled on the machine just enough to allow the weight on the driveline to "lighten / lessen". I suggested he set the parking brake and then shift into N on the range selector. This approach worked and the machine started.


Honestly, this is one reason why I think having a winch on the front or rear of these SCUTS makes sense. At least the machine operator could "take the locking load" off the H/L gear lever using the winch, so it can be shifted and started. Everyone bumps the H /L range selector getting on and off the seat. Even with the brake parked and the lever in N, its easy to bump the lever into gear, which will kills the engine. Really, the lever should be shorter.

I have seen some force the lever until it shifts into N. I would NOT be comfortable doing this as its going to break something in the case. Its just not built to be used under such loads.......

Changes which need to happen to the control levers on the 1 series.

1. H/L range lever should be about 4" to 5" shorter than it is. Really, don't see a reason for the lever to be higher than the seat.

2. 2wd / 4wd lever is funky and while after market replacements exist, the OEM should be like the aftermarket replacement.

3. PTO lever also needs work, but honestly, I have never used it as I don't mow with the machine.

 

Hey sully, mine was shifting in and out of gear hard and I found a video on YouTube that showed a nut under the seat that needs adjusting. Basically if you raise the rear wheels and they move forward or reverse without the pedal being pressed, this nut needs to be adjusted so it the wheels don’t move without pressing the pedal.

this was the case for me. I adjusted it, and it now shifts perfectly. It no longer wants to keep creeping forward while the pedal isn’t pressed. My question, do you know what the adjustment piece is called?

 

@SulleyBear Just drawing attention incase you missed this.

 

Yup, right here:

 

thanks for this! I was struggling with this until i realized i could gently tap the reverse and it shifted like butter! Now I'll fix it right!

 

Just had a brake Bell crack failure on my 2017, 1025R tractor, with cab. Shortly after working in a situation where the brakes were very important, I was fortunate enough to be on level ground in my driveway when the brakes failed. If it would have failed half an hour earlier, the tractor would have been upside down in a lake.
Examining the part I would not put a similar one back on. Instead I had a welding shop fabricate a replacement Bellcrank out of steel. How John Deere can provide a poorly-engineered part for their tractors it's beyond me.

If you have ever failed to have the transmission in gear and roll over a hill, you understand that sinking feeling that this can end badly. Now imagine the brakes have failed, same loss of control x -10

 

The same part has cracked on my 2025R multiple times over the years including very recently. It is terrifying when it happens, especially if you are on a slope. I am FURIOUS that JD has not taken this serious. The local shop had no sympathy for me when I told them about this recent episode.

 

If there aren't any ramifications for failure to update / upgrade this , part, why would JD want to spend the money?. It doesn't affect a pending sale, just us, who have already purchased the tractor. It shouldn't take an injury or loss life to correct this situation

 

This was just posted in one of the FB groups:

 

Can confirm the authenticity of that bulletin.

 

This was just posted in one of the FB groups:

 

I hope this will be something users can do themselves or else it'll take years to get machines into a dealer for the fix.

 

That's a very wide swath of tractor owners affected!

 

I'd love to see a recall over the old style "parking brake".

I remember the OP in this article having two threads on unsafe items. The tone reminded me of someone ginning for a class action lawsuit.

 

Aaaaaaand time to go check my build date. I think I'm a 2023 build on mine, but I'll want to be sure.

 

This probably affects me. I wonder what their fix will be, and why it doesn’t affect tractors built after Sept 2022.

Agree on transport cost being a concern. Probably cost more than the replacement part that I could install myself.

 

"I wonder what their fix will be, and why it doesn’t affect tractors built after Sept 2022. "
That's what I wonder as well, my 1025R has a 2024 build date, but shows the exact same bellcrank part number LVU31387 via the JD website, did they correct the issue in 2022 but keep the part number the same? Or should I be worried?

 

At least we're running hydrostatic, not geared, so we DO have braking capability even if the actual physical brake fails.

 

As long as it's in gear. If not you're in for a hell of a ride!

 

I guess I'm glad mine is a 2016 ! Sounds like it could be a bad thing !! 😕

 

Check your bellcrank with photos.if it's made from pot metal, beware. Part # LVU31387.
Bill

 

Use your Bucket Brakes or Ballast box brakes.

 

I figure the guys that could be in a world of hurt are the guys doing belly-deck work, with no loader or three-point implement attached. I figure I could always drop my bucket and whatever I've got on the back to slow me down, ballast or box blade makes a dandy brake, but if just the belly mower is on...

 

😦