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Discussion Starter #1
I was wondering if anyone else was having this problem. Thank you custom search, I almost started a new topic. :) :lol:

My adjustment is in the category of so minute that it is either off or it is just fractionally cracked open. Dealer says it is completely normal, my argument then is if JD designed it this way why does it need a valve that can be opened by five turns?

Seems to be a huge disconnect between JD corporate and local service center/dealers on warranty versus non-warranty coverage. Anyway to add a restriction valve o the bleed down so that it can slow the descent? Perhaps it is a 1/2" line and we could reduce it to a 1/4" fitting or something that could cause the knob to operate better?
 

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I was wondering if anyone else was having this problem. Thank you custom search, I almost started a new topic. :) :lol:

My adjustment is in the category of so minute that it is either off or it is just fractionally cracked open. Dealer says it is completely normal, my argument then is if JD designed it this way why does it need a valve that can be opened by five turns?

Seems to be a huge disconnect between JD corporate and local service center/dealers on warranty versus non-warranty coverage. Anyway to add a restriction valve o the bleed down so that it can slow the descent? Perhaps it is a 1/2" line and we could reduce it to a 1/4" fitting or something that could cause the knob to operate better?
I am not sure I understand the question. But I will say the rate of drop is in direct relation to the amount of weight on the 3pt hitch. The valve setting (speed of drop) will not be the same for all weight with the same valve setting.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
For me it doesn't matter if it is a box blade or my tiller. The speed is either none or full just bang drop dead fast. I usually just very slowly move my lever rather than relying on that thing.
 

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KD7CAO, What tractor do you have having the problem, not that it matters. IMO, the operation/functionality is dead wrong and not normal.
 

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KD7CAO, What tractor do you have having the problem, not that it matters. IMO, the operation/functionality is dead wrong and not normal.
I agree. KD7CAO, would you start a new thread? Let's see if we can't get this figured out.
 

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I agree. KD7CAO, would you start a new thread? Let's see if we can't get this figured out.
Good idea. When YOU do it move the posts associated with it.
 

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I agree. KD7CAO, would you start a new thread? Let's see if we can't get this figured out.
Good idea. When YOU do it move the posts associated with it.
I did, thank you... But I was trying encourage members that it's ok to start a new thread when they can't find a thread that relates to their issue.
 

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I did, thank you... But I was trying encourage members that it's ok to start a new thread when they can't find a thread that relates to their issue.
Lets stay on topic here. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You know moving the thread made it very difficult for me to find in Tapatalk. Had to wait till I got to work, besides it is related to the OP question on the previous thread.

I have a 2014 JD 1025r for a tractor (same as in my sig line). :)

I am really wondering if an orifice or restrictor of some kind could be put in the line around the RoDK. (How do you like that? A new acronym: Rate of Drop Knob.) :bigthumb:

I had thought about a gear reduction but realized that would be far more complicated than just restricting the flow more. I could be totally wrong here, I am nearing my 50 hours first service and am installing a Power Beyond Kit at the same time, so I may have the opportunity to inspect this a little bit at that time. I need to see a Hydraulics flow chart though too.
 

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I have a 1025r not the older 1026r :)
Fixed the title for you. :good2:

I did provide a link in the previous thread. Did it not work for you?
 

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I had thought about a gear reduction but realized that would be far more complicated than just restricting the flow more. I could be totally wrong here, I am nearing my 50 hours first service and am installing a Power Beyond Kit at the same time, so I may have the opportunity to inspect this a little bit at that time. I need to see a Hydraulics flow chart though too.
A gear reduction? I'm not sure I follow why you'd say that or your line of thinking here? It's a hydraulic issue. Nothing mechanical in that ROD valve other than the valve itself.

Here's the diagram. It should be identical to both the 1025 and the 1026R. :good2:

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1424358980.624637.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #14
A gear reduction? I'm not sure I follow why you'd say that or your line of thinking here? It's a hydraulic issue. Nothing mechanical in that ROD valve other than the valve itself.
I was thinking of separating the RoDK with a gear system that would give a fine tune. But, that would require a mini-transmission of sorts to do and not practical or feasible at all.
 
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