[ClydeLogan]

Six year old 1025R, used to groom a horse riding arena daily. Because of the arena fencing and configuration, the 500 lb arena groomer needs to be lifted and lowered about 30 times during each grooming session. Lately I have been having to re-tighten the nut at the base of the 3-point lever practically every day to keep the groomer from dropping to the ground. I am using the rate of descent control to limit the dropping, but short of closing it completely it still drops, just way more slowly. Keeping my hand on the control lever or locking it is the only thing that is working for me.

I see on the parts diagram that there are a set of 4 friction washers under this adjusting nut. I am thinking maybe these have cycled so many times that they are wearing out, and replacing them will be the solution.

Has anyone experienced a similar situation? And if I replace the washers, how involved is that job? Thanks for reading.

 

[Kennyd]

Those washers are well know across many models to wear out or crack...but sometimes just adjusting the bolt fixes the issue. This is not really related to the life of the 3PH, but rather the control mechanism for it.

 

[ClydeLogan]

Just wanted a catchy title to attract someone to answer “how involved is the job?”

Is it as simple as removing the nut, and swapping new for old washers? I am coming up on 1200 hour service, so will have the hydraulic fluid drained at that time, if the washer swap is more complex and involves some tear down.

 

[stevenk]

On my 2020 1025r I had the 3pt lever go loose this last winter. Not wanting to be without it for snow removal here is what I did. Jacked up and remove right rear tire.(this is when I could see part of a friction washer hanging out of place) The lever is two piece on mine so I removed the small bolts holding the top piece to the bottom. Then I took the nut off the lever shaft and slid off the parts paying attention to the order. The friction washer was indeed broken/torn. I did not have a new washer so I used a piece of graphite coated gasket material and made my own. It was about a 1/16 inch thick. I put it all back together and snugged up the shaft nut. It is still working fine today. Mine appeared to only have one friction washer so that is all I put back on. Pay attention to the orientation of the washers if you tear it apart, they are spring washers and are "cone" shaped.
Pretty simple problem and fix.

 

[ClydeLogan]

Thank you. Appreciate the advice very much.

 

[ClydeLogan]

I should have done a more thorough search before I asked. My bad. Sorry. And for future reference the friction washer (LV23464) has been superceded by part number TR110329. I just ordered one from Green PartStore. The cost was $4.44, and I saved over $9.00 they were going to charge for shipping by using Tim's discount code, TTWT. Thanks Tim.

1026R 3 point hitch lever dropping

I've had to replace the "rubberish" washer (Part# LVU23464) as well. I knew what had happened as soon as I raised the rockshaft lever and it returned forward. Found the washer parts laying on the brake linkage/spring. Called my salesman the next day and told him about this forum and how you guys...

www.greentractortalk.com

 

[Jeff B]

Is the control lever that uses the washers for friction moving itself towards the front of the machine?
It sounds like maybe the three point is leaking down and the position control is not correcting soon enough?

 

[ClydeLogan]

Is the control lever that uses the washers for friction moving itself towards the front of the machine?
It sounds like maybe the three point is leaking down and the position control is not correcting soon enough?

I was mistaken. There are 4 spring retention washers, and only a single friction washer in the assembly. I am not sure what you mean by a correcting position control?

 

[Jeff B]

The machine has linkage that connects to the valve to raise and lower the rock shaft.
When you select a position with the rock shaft lever (which has the friction washer on it) the three point will raise or lower to the position you select and stop there.
Lets say your friction mechanism is in perfect shape and you rock shaft position lever stays where you put it.
Eventually, depending on weight, time and rock shaft cylinder condition the load will drift down.
The position control linkage will physically move with the dropping three point and shift the hydraulic valve to raise the load back to the position you had selected.
Now there is some lag I noticed, but I can't say exactly how far the load will drift down before the correction occurs.
I'm sure a long three point implement may drift down significantly at the "tail" before the correction works.

 

[stevenk]

Is the control lever that uses the washers for friction moving itself towards the front of the machine?
It sounds like maybe the three point is leaking down and the position control is not correcting soon enough?

Yes jeff, the lever falls forward unless you hold it back by hand all the time. The friction washer allows it to stay put where you set it.

 

[fatback]

I found some nylon washers at the hardware store. I figured they would last longer than the OEM ones which seem to made of cardboard.

 

[ClydeLogan]

The new friction washer was delivered today. If anyone is shopping for a replacement option for the Deere branded friction washer it is 1-7/8 inches in diameter, with a 1/2 inch diameter hole. It is 1/8 inch thick.