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Hi all,

I am looking at the 1025r and trying to decide between a 54 or 60 mid mount mower. I have about an acre to mow and some odd places and hills. So, I am thinking the 54" is better. But I keep having dealers recommending the 60". Even with Kubota Dealers, they keep putting down 60" mowers. I am afraid of the 60" scalping and it being too big.

I currently have an old 1994 White GT-1855 and had a parts tractor with a 60" and used it and it was too big and cut poorly as it was just too big. It was at my old house as well, so not the same yard, but afraid of the same thing happening. The 50" deck cuts beautifully on both lawns.

I was told they keep doing the 60" because it sticks out farther and you can mow around trees and stuff better.

So not sure what to think!? Wondering what others with some experience with these machines and mmm might think?
 

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I have the 54" deck on my 1025r. I have no experience with the 60 so I can't compare the two. My reason for picking the 54" was, I figured it would be easier for me to manhandle when it's off the tractor for maintenance and blade service.
 

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I was in the same boat as you a little over a month ago. After reading a lot of threads where people talked about issues with the 60" MMM I was planning to get the 54" MMM. I have a rough, hilly, country yard that's a little over an acre. I don't have a "lawn". I have a couple of places that I'd landscaped for mowing with my older JD garden tractors that had either 46" or 50" decks so I was concerned about fitting between a few spots. I also have a few places where those smaller decks would scalp if I mowed the wrong way. In the end I decided to take a chance & go with the 60" MMM for my new 1025R & so far, I'm happy with that decision.

I'm pretty blown away by how good of a job it does mowing considering some of the things I read beforehand. I think it does just as good of a job as my old tractors with the smaller mower decks. I have actually had fewer scalping issues with it than I did my older mowers, but that's probably due to deciding to cut the grass a little taller than I used to along with already knowing where those areas of concern were to start with. I used to always set my mower decks to 2 3/4" to 3" tall & I'm now cutting with the 1025R set at 3 1/2" to 3 3/4" tall based on measurements taken in my garage. I also mow with the gauge wheels in the lowest setting. It really doesn't look noticeably taller than before after cutting & I'm sure it's better for the grass. Honestly, it looks to me like it would be scalping if I mowed much lower as it doesn't look that tall to my eye. I think the extra height allows me a little more float to avoid scalping when I go over all of my rough little high & low spots. The only places I've really scalped bad was trying to get a couple spots in my ditches the first time. One was where I kind of bottomed out on a ridge when my front wheels hit the bottom of the ditch going up & down, & the other was when I crested the top of another ditch going up & down. Those two ditches are at about a 30°-35° incline so I'm not comfortable side mowing them like I did hanging off the side of my smaller garden tractors.

Before I signed papers & committed to the 60" MMM I measured the tight spots in my yard & the deck to make sure it would make it. There is one spot between some landscape timbers & a tree that is extremely tight but I can just fit with the discharge chute folded up. I keep a bungee cord in my toolbox that I can grab that just happens to be the right length to reach down & fish the hook over the edge of the chute & flip it up when I come to those tight spots. IIRC the deck is about 63" wide with the chute flipped up & about 72" wide with the chute down if you have any concerns about that.

I can't speak for manhandling the 60" MMM as I have only had it off once so far so I could get under the tractor for something. I put it back on as soon as I was done & never even moved it between dismounting & remounting. While I bought the 1025R for the versatility it has & I already have several projects lined up for it, it will probably spend the majority of its life as a mower.

Not that it pertains in particular to just the 60" MMM, but the biggest things I've noticed so far that differ from mowing with my old garden tractors are:

1. The hill factor. As I mentioned, I just haven't gotten comfortable enough yet to mow sideways like I did hanging off of my garden tractors on a few of the steeper spots in some of my ditches. The 1025R just has a higher center of gravity & so far the pucker factor has gotten to be too much in those places. A couple of these spots are so steep in fact that I have had wheels come of the ground on one side & come very close to flipping the smaller garden tractors when mowing with them before I perfected my leaning technique.

2. Trees. Due to the extra height of the 1025R I need to trim some of my trees up higher or landscape out around them further. Between the distance the deck sticks out & the tight turning radius of the tractor (that seems like it might actually be tighter than one of my garden tractors) you can get very close to obstacles but the ROPS will definitely catch branches. With the ROPS up it's worse & the forward slant of it seems to try to angle the branches right down into your face. With the ROPS down it's not nearly as much of an issue, but it still sticks up higher than my garden tractors & will catch low hanging branches. I'm really glad I got the light guards for the ROPS lights & the extra LED light package I ordered with mine because they have already taken a beating after only mowing three times. I hope to get the trees trimmed before I mow again so I don't have to worry about that anymore.

This is probably way more info than you really wanted but there's my perspective on it so far. Below is a picture of my yard I snapped before I left for work today. I mowed yesterday evening. The closest tree is the only one of the five oaks in that expanse of yard I can mow under with the ROPS folded down without any issues. The brownish areas in front of the house & stretching off to the side is where we brought in a bunch of fill last year to level things up after some septic work done a couple of years ago. Unfortunately, so far we haven't had a lot of luck getting anything nicer to grow there than meadow/field grass that just looks brown when mowed down that short & there are still some bare spots. This picture probably doesn't really do justice to how rough & hilly my yard is as your looking at the flattest part of it.

10-1-18 Yard1.jpg

Good luck in your decision.
 
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I think the 60” is a better choice because the uncut circle is smaller and I can get closer to fences and trees with it as it is a bit wider than the tractor. I don’t have any issues with my 6” deck. The 1026 / 1025 is a big lawn mower, the 54” deck just seems to small too me.
 

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I had a 1023 with the 54d and now have a 2025 with the 60d. From my experience your lawn determines which is best suited for you. If you have a fairly level lawn go for the 60d, if is uneven then the 54d will cut much better IMO. In my yard the 54d did a better job but up to the in laws the 60d gives a superior cut, but their yard has no quick uneven changes in terrain like mine does.
 

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Good morning.

You say that you have about an acre to mow. Is that acre part of a larger property, so that you'll be putting the other functions of a SCUT to use? If you have just a one acre yard, have you considered a ZTR mower? Faster, less money, better mow than either of the MMM's - at least based on the many previous posts I've read here. If you are a show yard fanatic, there are better choices than a SCUT MMM for mowing.

If your dealer is one of those (and it seems there are too many of them) who fail to set up either of the two MMM choices properly, you will be disappointed by scalping and uneven cutting and autoconnect problems until you get the setup sorted out. It took me over two years, with a lot of help from people on this forum, to get my 60D to the place where it should have been upon delivery. I still see three blade stripes after every pass, but I mainly mow pastures and not ornamental yard.

My 60D does a good job cutting around trees. Of course, you have to be on a left hand circle (or have the mulching plate kit). It does require one or two back-ups to cut a tight circle, so bypassing the RIO switch will be one of the first things you'll want to do to prevent engine shutoff every time you try to back while mowing. Forgetting to disengage 4WD after autoconnecting the mower will dig up your yard pretty well, but you'll learn that quickly. I do have R4 tires, maybe R3's would do less damage.

I have found over the past three years that the 1025R tractor and MMM has left some decent ruts along the fence lines, and other places where there is no way to switch mowing tracks to reduce driving over the same track every time.

I I could convince my wife, I'd have both a ZTR and the SCUT. But there are other things higher up on my bucket list. Go with the 60D mower.
 
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Well I had a 60 on a 1025R for a year and some change. I Just upgraded this year to a 2025R with a 54D. The Little I used the 54D I find it to Leave a Better Cut compared to the 60 and I have a fairly flat Yard. Just a slight hill in one area where the 1025R or 2025R was two Big to cut in there anyways So I use My X748 with a 54inch deck

Back In the early 2000's I had a JD 425 with a 60inch deck to use on 17acres I rented In NY. Never did like the Cut On that. So when I retired from the Army in 2002 and Moved Back to 5.5acres in IL I bought a X485 with a 48inch deck. And that old yard of 5.5acre was mixed terrain from rough, smooth and hilly and the 48inch always made the cut look great. Well In 2014 I upgraded the X485 to a X748 with a 54inch deck. It cut ok compared to the 48inch deck. Well In 2016 we moved to a 3.9acre Property still the first year I cut with the X748 with 54inch deck. The second Year summer of 2017 I tried cutting for about a Month with the 1025R with 60inch deck. I found it did not do as great a Job cutting as the 54inch deck on my X748 so I switched Back to the X748 with 54inch deck to finish the Mowing season.

So when I knew I was going to upgrade to a 2025R I wanted to go with a 54D deck. Because the 54inch cuts so well and the X748 at are new Property. As I said above the 54D cuts a heck of a lot better than the 60D deck.

At least with Deere I understand why they are pushing for the 60D. One reason the 54D is Hard to get. It was Just released By Deere it Late August / early September It's been On Back order for the 1025R & 2025R since 2017 and it still may be slow for coming into a dealer.

Another reason they Push it is because it does cost more and it Increases what the dealer actually makes on the sale of the Tractor. Dealers really Make a small Percentage on a new tractor compared to what Deere actually pockets.

Another thing it's In the American Psyche that bigger is better :bigthumb:
 
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Go with the 54" if store your tractor in a shed and the door way is close.

I have the 54"' as the 60" was to close to my opening going in and out of my shed. Some have bigger doors so this isn't a problem but mine when I drive in and out I only have a few inches on each side. Just something to consider and the 54" is doing a great job or so I think. :laugh:


I also built my nice 12 by 20 shed about 5 years ago when I never thought about getting a tractor. If I had only known I would have raised it up another 5" and could get a nice cab for my unit!!!! When the roll bar is up I am about 2" short and gurrrrrrr:banghead: (yeah I am a member of the forgetting to put the roll bar down, yes on my very first day):hide:
 
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I had a 2016 1025 with a 60" and traded it for a 2018 54" when I got my 2038R with a 72". I like the 54" because its better on hills for me. Not has much scalping. both mowers cut well.
 
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I have the 60 on my1025. Only issue with scalping is if i am on some seriously uneven terrain - and thats jot the mowers fault - just the nature of the ground and any deck would scalp it.

For changing blades i use the FEL and some chains to lift the deck off the ground. Who wants to pick that heavy thing up by hand?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I had the 54, but if I had it to do over again I would have bought the 60. It's only 3" wider on each side, so I don't understand the scalping thing, but people say that that's a thing. But, the 60" is a higher capacity deck than the 54. The 54 bogs down in heavy grass. Not even tall grass, just heavy, especially if its damp. If you look at the top of both decks, the 60 is mostly flat, like the HC decks on the X700 series, whereas the 54 has large depressions, which reduces its capacity.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
I had the 54, but if I had it to do over again I would have bought the 60. It's only 3" wider on each side, so I don't understand the scalping thing, but people say that that's a thing. But, the 60" is a higher capacity deck than the 54. The 54 bogs down in heavy grass. Not even tall grass, just heavy, especially if its damp. If you look at the top of both decks, the 60 is mostly flat, like the HC decks on the X700 series, whereas the 54 has large depressions, which reduces its capacity.
I'm just going off my history between a 50" and 60" on my White tractor. The White has a floating deck, so that may lead to scalping as well. But the 60", just didn't float well and in a small yard it didn't cut even and scalped as it was too big and would tilt too easy and leave non-even cuts, etc. The 50" still scalps, but mows a lot better with being even, etc.

The deck on the Kubota seems to be more open as well and wondering if it may mow better. Very hard decision and so many things to compare and make a decision on.
 

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I'm just going off my history between a 50" and 60" on my White tractor. The White has a floating deck, so that may lead to scalping as well. But the 60", just didn't float well and in a small yard it didn't cut even and scalped as it was too big and would tilt too easy and leave non-even cuts, etc. The 50" still scalps, but mows a lot better with being even, etc.

The deck on the Kubota seems to be more open as well and wondering if it may mow better. Very hard decision and so many things to compare and make a decision on.
Tim (from Tractor Time with Tim) added a center roller on his deck and he said that helped with scalping.

EDIT: I should have included the link. My bad. Here it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYWLQWwJn5E
 

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I have the 1023E with the 60inch deck and it does scalp more so than my dedicated 46inch mower but that is on a medium bumpy yard. On a smooth yard I dont think I could tell a difference. I cannot speak to the 54inch but I will say its nice with the larger mower deck to go around trees and the turning circle is pretty small. Also, my 60inch deck weighs a lot. I can move it by hand but really prefer not to. I would not think the 54inch would be that much lighter but I could be wrong. I personally like the heavy deck as I have to mow on some hills and I like the weight as low as possible. My opinion is that its worth it for the 60inch for the cutting width and smaller turning circle.
 

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I like my 54" about an acre of lawn... half on a hill and half fairly flat. Can not imagine any amount of grass bogging it down...That may be the fact that it is a 1026R...Also gets nice and close to boulders and trees.
 

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I went with the 54” because that’s what I had on my x728 and it just fit in the places I needed to go. I am very impressed with the cut, enough so that I’m going to spend the money on a sprinkler system next spring
 

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i went with the 60" MMM because it protrudes past the tires on the cutting edge so i can get closer to items such as my pond without worrying about the tires getting too close to it.
 

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I had a similar item about a month ago (60" vs 72") on a 2032R along with other items to put on a new tractor. (New 2032r) for details.
I originally purchased a JD 320 lawn tractor with a ~48" mmm deck back in early 90's to take care of the current property (~ 5 acres) mow about 1 1/2 around the house and then about another 2 when I mow the meadow in the back. (Donated the 320 to church when I got the x728) and it still runs great. (Its a Deere and they just keep running (make sure to do the annual maintenance)
When I was able to get a little more $ ahead I purchased a x728 w/62 MMM deck about 10 yrs ago. (largest machine that would fit in my garage at the time)(Now have a metal barn on the property so have more room for a larger machine and accessaries)
More power with the x728 and the FEL was great to have (just underpowered compared to my new machine)
I did purchase the 2032R w/72mmm & fel and other stuff

I cut the mowing time down and the 2032r is much smoother riding that the old x728 on my rough yard.

To cashxx
A few years ago I went from cutting at ~ 2 3/4" - 3" to cutting at ~ 3 1/2 " to make sure that I would clear some stepping stones in part of the yard and most of the scalping that I had been seeing went away (note the x728 has a dial a cutting height knob on the floor board near where the operators right foot would be placed with a 90 degree angle on the leg (except not a problem since the right foot is at about 45 degrees to operate the forward, reverse and break petals.) (Just like Emeribd in post #3 of this thread going to a slightly higher height of cut smooths out issues) (I also have problems with low branches on trees even with the ROPS folded - so I need to do more tree branch trimming, a lot more)

So for the first mowing with the new 2032R and 72mmm went with 3.5" (Larger Series 2 machine has a linear actuator to raise and lower the deck with a dial on the operators console on the right fender)(CommandCut Height of Cut feature) (works great)(0.5" increments)

Even with the wider deck did NOT have any new scalping places. (Note: brought the machine home from the dealer in the next day just started using it as is (NO Adjustments needed, properly setup from the dealer)(I LIKE my dealer - been working with them since the early 90's, I know the Service manager and assistance, some of the mechanics, and parts guys, Had to get to know the new Salesman ( the one who has sold me the 320 & x728 pasted away a couple of years ago)

Note: the yard has a lot of small hills and valleys 2-5 in and some places I need to start using the box blade to fix places in the yard from under ground utility installations.
Anyway I like the larger deck so I hope you consider the larger deck for your 1025r (if it fits between things)
And I hope that whatever deck you go with works to your satisfaction
 

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Hi all,

I am looking at the 1025r and trying to decide between a 54 or 60 mid mount mower. I have about an acre to mow and some odd places and hills. So, I am thinking the 54" is better. But I keep having dealers recommending the 60". Even with Kubota Dealers, they keep putting down 60" mowers. I am afraid of the 60" scalping and it being too big.

I currently have an old 1994 White GT-1855 and had a parts tractor with a 60" and used it and it was too big and cut poorly as it was just too big. It was at my old house as well, so not the same yard, but afraid of the same thing happening. The 50" deck cuts beautifully on both lawns.

I was told they keep doing the 60" because it sticks out farther and you can mow around trees and stuff better.

So not sure what to think!? Wondering what others with some experience with these machines and mmm might think?
My 1025r is about 6 months old now and I have a 60" deck. It works fine with a 60" deck but I normally use my Kubota ZD331 72" Zero Turn mower on my 5 acres. The Zero Turns blow away the conventional tractors for mowing. Keep in mind the 1025r is an underpowered tractor right from the get go but you have to use one to be able to see what I mean. The John Deere commercials and the salesman will never tell you that.

After I had it for a few months I bought a John Deere 2038r which there is no comparison to the 1025r. I took the 60" deck off the 1025 and just use a loader on it for small chores around the house now. If you are only going to run the 1025 by itself with just the mower, the 60" will work fine but I would definitely upgrade to some more horsepower than that 24 HP Diesel on the 1025r. Better yet get a Zero Turn mower and knock the mowing out is less than half the time. They had to keep the horsepower down not to exceed 25 HP so it would be able to pass the government diesel exhaust emission standards set by the federal government.
 
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