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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Was wondering if anyone else with a 1025R and a 54" blade has had any issues. When using my 54" snow blade it lowers really slow even when warmed up and the hydraulic flow regulator dial is turned all the way up. I had an identical plow on my old 445 and it dropped right down.

I asked a guy at the dealer about this the other day and he said there is an orifice on the cylinder that keeps it from dropping too quickly so that the blade does not slam down and mark up peoples driveways. He said I could take the orifice out or drill it out bigger. So, I disconnected the inlet/ outlet hoses on the up/ down cylinder and cant seem to find an orifice.

Anyone have any knowledge on this an how I can drop the blade down quicker. The slow drop lowers productivity.

Thanks,
 

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There is no orifice on mine. I would check to make sure your quick connects are connected properly back at the right hand foot rest.
 
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I'll check on it when I get to work if and get my techs on their jobs. I have a 1025R with a H120 loader and it is slow on the "dump" function if you don't push the lever the whole way to the right, if you happen to be using that circuit for your raise/lower. If you are using the correct circuit (where the lever is moved front to back), is it possible you are pushing the lever into the float position when lowering the blade?
 

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vondy7, If you drop the blade all the way down before going into float it will work faster for ya, but still probably slow.


From one of my posts a while back...

"I made our plow blade originally to utilize the JD lift piston available at the time for the JD 650. The JD piston allowed for lift and down pressure. After one winter of use I decided it was NOT in any way the way to go. Changed it up for the following year to a chain lift.

The reaction time of the piston in float mode was flat out too slow for snow plowing especially in really cold temperatures. The addition of the weights helped but did not solve the issue. Not to mention always having to go into float mode, AFTER you have lowered the blade via down pressure. Then there is the having the blade all the way down only to discover you were not in float mode or it popped out of float mode after you have plowed up 4 feet of grass. Down pressure with a push type frame such as mine or the quick hitch will also kill your 4WD (front) traction. Chain lift allows for float mode regardless of blade height."
http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/implements-attachments/40953-loader-mounted-snow-plow-vs-frame-mounted-quick-hitch-snow-plow-1023e-4.html#post576297
 

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There is no orifice on mine. I would check to make sure your quick connects are connected properly back at the right hand foot rest.
Orifice used on a H120 FEL, #6...

0001972756____________A1.jpg

Cart
keyPART NO.PART NAMEQTY SERIAL NO.REMARKS
1R44302Tie BandAR
(D)
2W39914Hose Guard1
3R26448O-Ring1
11.887 X 1.981 mm (0.468" X 5/64")
4AW35268Hydraulic Hose4
LGTH= 1350MM
5W53373Cap1
(A)
W53374Cap1
(B)
W53375Cap1
(C)
W53376Cap1
(D)
6E40500Orifice1
7N155442Adapter Fitting1
CartkeyPART NO.PART NAMEQTY SERIAL NO.REMARKS
8AW32184Hydr. Quick Coupler Plug4
9AW32569Hydraulic Hose2
LGTH= 635MM
10AW29374Hydraulic Hose6
LGTH= 350MM
AW35884Hydraulic Hose6
(E) LGTH = 350MM
11W44542Block Clamp3
12W52152Screw3
13T77613O-Ring12
14AW35336Oil Line1
15AW35337Oil Line1
16AW35338Oil Line1
CartkeyPART NO.PART NAMEQTY SERIAL NO.REMARKS
17AW35339Oil Line1
18R76477Tie Band2
19W54416Hose Support1
2019M7298Cap Screw1
M8 X 35
2124M7024Washer2
9 X 28 X 3 mm
2214M7396Lock Nut1
M8
23R155996Tie Band2
(C)
24R155997Tie Band2
(A)
25R155998Tie Band2
(B)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Gizmo 2- Thanks for sharing your experiences and suggestions. I agree the 54" blades function is disappointing and good idea on the chain lift. As far as the orifice on the FEL, I guess that controls the Lift arms drop speed. Good to know.

Ray_PA- all connection are correctly attached.

Billy Cravens- Let me know what your techs say. What a good reference to have.
 

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Was wondering if anyone else with a 1025R and a 54" blade has had any issues. When using my 54" snow blade it lowers really slow even when warmed up and the hydraulic flow regulator dial is turned all the way up. I had an identical plow on my old 445 and it dropped right down.

I asked a guy at the dealer about this the other day and he said there is an orifice on the cylinder that keeps it from dropping too quickly so that the blade does not slam down and mark up peoples driveways. He said I could take the orifice out or drill it out bigger. So, I disconnected the inlet/ outlet hoses on the up/ down cylinder and cant seem to find an orifice.

Anyone have any knowledge on this an how I can drop the blade down quicker. The slow drop lowers productivity.

Thanks,
Where is this dial? For what it's worth, mine is slow and will kick out float when the fluid is too thick. Also, even though my engine is warm, I find the hydraulic fluid is still slow to move.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Tick Tock- the dial is under the front of the seat by the floor board. Should have a +/- on it.

Also, your hydraulics are tied to the transmission system and will only warm up if you are moving the machine around a lot or using the hydraulics aggressively.
 

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I've had my 47" blower for a few years and will say that it drops a lot faster than the 54" blade I just purchased. I'm guessing it's just a weight thing.
 
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I've had my 47" blower for a few years and will say that it drops a lot faster than the 54" blade I just purchased. I'm guessing it's just a weight thing.
Weight will have a little something to do with it, but I am confused, it is a double acting cylinder and you should be able to power down just as fast as you can power it up. :unknown:
 

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Tick Tock- the dial is under the front of the seat by the floor board. Should have a +/- on it.

Also, your hydraulics are tied to the transmission system and will only warm up if you are moving the machine around a lot or using the hydraulics aggressively.
The knob you mention controls only the rockshaft, not the SCV.

Sometimes, while it's warming up, I sit on it and, with the lever in neutral, I hold the forward pedal down. I'm not sure if that helps it warm up, but would assume so as it is pumping fluid. This reaffirms my point though, in that a warm engine doesn't mean warm hydraulics. :)
 

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I would agree that my blade is "slow" when going up and down. When I'm pushing snow it's usually at a lower rpm also. When I'm out running the combine I know the hydraulics take a while to get warmed up and it's sluggish. With the amount of cooling capacity hydro systems have built in and taking into consideration there's no "thermostat" to help things warm up quicker it would be reasonable to assume that could have something to do with it.

-636
 

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Maybe this is stating the obvious, but wouldn't the "orifice" also slow the FEL loader bucket lowering if it was in fact the point of having the orifice in use? In other words, wouldn't the loader downward movement be slower than raising it? :dunno: No one seems to comment that is the case.

What about those of us using a rubber "squeegee" edge on the plow so there is no "banging it" or "damaging" the driveway surface by dropping the blade? Granted, mine is Not a 1 series, but is a 455, but a banging 54" snow blade would be a banging 54" snow blade.........:dunno:

When it gets very cold (below 5 degrees) I notice the hydraulics on my tractor are slower until it warms up. But in my case, the angling is slow just like the lift and drop until the fluid warms up and thins. It can take a few minutes but then all four of my hydraulic directions are the same speed.

..........kind of like my blood, I move slower until I get warmed up as well......:laugh:
 

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Maybe this is stating the obvious, but wouldn't the "orifice" also slow the FEL loader bucket lowering if it was in fact the point of having the orifice in use? In other words, wouldn't the loader downward movement be slower than raising it? :dunno: No one seems to comment that is the case.
From what I understand of the exploded view, the orifice is in the hose on the FEL, not on the tractor coupling.
 

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Maybe this is stating the obvious, but wouldn't the "orifice" also slow the FEL loader bucket lowering if it was in fact the point of having the orifice in use? In other words, wouldn't the loader downward movement be slower than raising it? :dunno: No one seems to comment that is the case.

What about those of us using a rubber "squeegee" edge on the plow so there is no "banging it" or "damaging" the driveway surface by dropping the blade? Granted, mine is Not a 1 series, but is a 455, but a banging 54" snow blade would be a banging 54" snow blade.........:dunno:

When it gets very cold (below 5 degrees) I notice the hydraulics on my tractor are slower until it warms up. But in my case, the angling is slow just like the lift and drop until the fluid warms up and thins. It can take a few minutes but then all four of my hydraulic directions are the same speed.

..........kind of like my blood, I move slower until I get warmed up as well......:laugh:
The orifice is in the hose for the boom lowering function and that attachment only (see Gizmo2's post in this thread). In other words the orifice is an attachment part and not a tractor part. I don't think anyone has stated that they have an orifice in the front quick hitch lines. At least, according to JDParts there isn't supposed to be one and I don't remember there being one in my units. To my knowledge that is the only line and attachment that has a flow restricting orifice.

But, you are correct, cold = slow for the hydraulics and me as well.
 

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Weight will have a little something to do with it, but I am confused, it is a double acting cylinder and you should be able to power down just as fast as you can power it up. :unknown:
You are correct, perhaps last night, in my excited state over the first use of the new blade, I was just pushing the lever to "float" and not using the hydraulics to lower the blade.... I think in all my time with the blower I just went right to float and pretty much left it there. I'm sure I'll figure it out as I go and pay more attention to what I'm doing.

:bigthumb:
 

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Weight will have a little something to do with it, but I am confused, it is a double acting cylinder and you should be able to power down just as fast as you can power it up. :unknown:
I'm with Randy on this one. My 54" blade goes up and down the same speed and it's not slow. Only time it's slow down is if I engage float.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Maybe this is stating the obvious, but wouldn't the "orifice" also slow the FEL loader bucket lowering if it was in fact the point of having the orifice in use? In other words, wouldn't the loader downward movement be slower than raising it? :dunno: No one seems to comment that is the case.
I think the orifice will slow things down either way. The oil already in the cylinder has to go back the same way it came, through the orifice. Hope this makes sense.


vondy7, Just out of curiosity what hydraulic oil are you running, Hy-Gard J20C or Low-Viscosity Hy-Gard 20D?
 

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Welcome to :wgtt: , I live in Fenton just outside of STL.


Sorry to hear an about the issue you are having. I don't remember my 318 or 430 raising or lowering the blade very swiftly either. I have yet to adapt the 54" blade to my 1025r yet for comparison but I will be soon. I kept the blade from the 430 I sold. Maybe someone can post a video of their 1 series with a snow blade lowering and raising for comparison to yours?
 
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