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HI MY GTT BROTHERS AND SISTER
I have a choice to have a 60 or 54 mmm deck I thought I remember reading that people prefer the 54 how would I find that post?
if not what do you think?
thank you
:bigthumb:
by the way I love this site!!!!!
 

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Not to deflect but there are about infinity threads on this topic, do a search and see what you find. The debate will rage on forever. I have the 60 and like it.
 

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I agree that there will be a lot of discussion about this. I also don't have a 1 Series but have gone from 54" to 60" (X585 with 54C to Z950R with 60" 7 Iron Pro).

It doesn't sound like much of a change in width but what I notice when mowing down the length of my ditch is I will make a pass and the 60 seems to scalp more on the outside edges so as I make a few passes it seems more like a stepped cut. I never noticed this as much with the 54. It is going to handle uneven ground better than a bigger deck. I will take longer to cut. This is partly why you see the big golf course mowers with 3 decks. A front deck and two wing decks or a bunch of smaller reel mowers. They handle the rolling terrain better. If you have rolling hills and pretty quick slope change, you could benefit from a narrower deck. If you have large relatively flat ground or more gradual changes, you won't notice the disadvantage as much so a larger deck is better to speed up your work.

There isn't a perfect answer to this which is why they sell different size decks. Depending on your use one will have advantages over the other.
 

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I went with the 54 as it is pretty simple and clean to install a front center guide roller to prevent scalping.
 

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Agree with others. You can do a search in the "Custom Search" box and get plenty of opinion reading.

That said, I have a 60D and wouldn't trade it for a 54" for anything, although, everyone likes what they like!!:dunno:

Reasons:
1. One of the issues with a 1 series is the ROPS lights. They are mounted to the outside of the ROPS. With the 60D, the deck sticks out the side of the tractor further so the chances of hitting a ROPS lights is less.

2. The 60D is 7-iron meaning it is made of 7 gauge steel.

3. The 60D is deeper so it creates more draft under the deck.

Negatives:
1. It is heavy

2. You will find many say the 60D scalps more than a 54D. I truly believe the majority of problems users have had with the 60D are mostly caused from not having it set up correctly and trying to mow with the deck to low. Any MMM is supposed to hang on the linkage, not the wheels. The wheels should run just clear of the floor when setting them up. Also, set the deck height adjustment so the cut height is about 3". Do not try to cut your grass too short.

3. The wheel shafts have hitch pins in the top hole to keep them from falling out when adjusting. These hitch pins do not allow for lowering the wheels far enough. Remove the hitch pins and lower the wheels one more hole. This will help to prevent any scalping when cresting over hill edges.

:bigthumb:
 

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I had the 54 and bought another 54 z-turn. I have a ditch that the 60 would have been scraping both sides of if you ran down the middle. If you dont have this or tight spaces as mentioned above, I'd go with the 60.

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I had the 54 and bought another 54 z-turn. I have a ditch that the 60 would have been scraping both sides of if you ran down the middle. If you dont have this or tight spaces as mentioned above, I'd go with the 60.

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That is the exact thing I notice in my ditch. If I run down the middle of the bottom it is long on the middle (bottom of the ditch) and scalping more on the edges. If I ride up on the side a bit to get that middle cut then I get a V shape to my ditch.

If a person has any significant slope changes in less than 60" you will struggle a bit more with a bigger deck.
 

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I have the 60 inch deck. When set up properly and adjusted to about 2.5 inch cutting height it cuts great. The four scalping wheels need to be adjusted as close to the ground as possible this is key with theses mower decks. You can also fine tune the cutting height by adjusting the 2 yokes that support the the mower deck. This is how I adjusted my deck. So, you can set the mower height adjustment knob and fine tune the cutting height with the 2 yokes. These mower decks do not like cutting below 2 inches keep that in mind. 2 1/2 - 2 3/8 is about perfect for these mower decks. The 4 scalping wheels set at around 1/4 inch works the best.
 

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2. You will find many say the 60D scalps more than a 54D. I truly believe the majority of problems users have had with the 60D are mostly caused from not having it set up correctly and trying to mow with the deck to low. Any MMM is supposed to hang on the linkage, not the wheels. The wheels should run just clear of the floor when setting them up. Also, set the deck height adjustment so the cut height is about 3". Do not try to cut your grass too short.


:bigthumb:
Again different machine but I have my 60" 7 Iron Pro deck set to cut at 3.25". The wheels do not touch the ground and the deck is leveled with the proper rake. I know this part because I re-level the deck every time I put on or take off my Powerflow head for the MCS. I also never remove the deck because well it is a ZTrak. It is also a R model so it has anti-scalp wheels all around the deck and the middle front and back. The Z915B/E doesn't have this.

It still scalps in the same places. This is because the slope changes too drastically in less than 60". It doesn't bother me but I do notice it. Really the only place I see this is the ditch area. While my property is a little hilly, it is more gradual transitions everywhere else for the most part.

Really it is a simple thing. The deck doesn't flex. So if you take a 5' level around and you have a lot of slope change in that amount of space, those are the spots where it can't cut level. Even as you mentioned when setting up the deck. You go to the Height of Cut and your anti-scalp wheels shouldn't be touching the ground. So when they come down and are touching, well then it is cutting lower than your HOC that is set on the machine. Will that scalp the grass to dirt, no but that isn't what I am calling scalping, I am saying it is cutting at 2" or 1.5" on one side of the deck and 4" on the other. Or if running down the middle of the ditch it will cut 1.5" on each edge and 5" in the middle. That 5' level spans the bottom of the ditch like a bridge. If I cut the ditch going the other way, I have to watch it cresting the hill because it will scalp there. Down to about .5" so I have to tap the deck lift button. This is because there is too much distance forward/back between the rollers. The 1 Series deck might not have this issue though. I didn't have it on my X585 as much.

Really though it does't bother me. If I did I would get a smaller deck. I like the time savings. I see it and some people are more fussy so I get it.
 

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Again different machine but I have my 60" 7 Iron Pro deck set to cut at 3.25". The wheels do not touch the ground and the deck is leveled with the proper rake. I know this part because I re-level the deck every time I put on or take off my Powerflow head for the MCS. I also never remove the deck because well it is a ZTrak. It is also a R model so it has anti-scalp wheels all around the deck and the middle front and back. The Z915B/E doesn't have this.

It still scalps in the same places. This is because the slope changes too drastically in less than 60". It doesn't bother me but I do notice it. Really the only place I see this is the ditch area. While my property is a little hilly, it is more gradual transitions everywhere else for the most part.

Really it is a simple thing. The deck doesn't flex. So if you take a 5' level around and you have a lot of slope change in that amount of space, those are the spots where it can't cut level. Even as you mentioned when setting up the deck. You go to the Height of Cut and your anti-scalp wheels shouldn't be touching the ground. So when they come down and are touching, well then it is cutting lower than your HOC that is set on the machine. Will that scalp the grass to dirt, no but that isn't what I am calling scalping, I am saying it is cutting at 2" or 1.5" on one side of the deck and 4" on the other. Or if running down the middle of the ditch it will cut 1.5" on each edge and 5" in the middle. That 5' level spans the bottom of the ditch like a bridge. If I cut the ditch going the other way, I have to watch it cresting the hill because it will scalp there. Down to about .5" so I have to tap the deck lift button. This is because there is too much distance forward/back between the rollers. The 1 Series deck might not have this issue though. I didn't have it on my X585 as much.

Really though it does't bother me. If I did I would get a smaller deck. I like the time savings. I see it and some people are more fussy so I get it.
There is no question, when mowing unlevel terrain, the potential is there for scalping or leaving the grass at different lengths. Actually any deck will do this, even decks with center anti-scalp wheels. Yes, the wider the deck is, the more effect the unlevel terrain has.

Allot of scalping can be minimized by changing the way or direction that you mow your terrain. I know this isn't always possible, but whenever a hill is crested, there is a chance for scalping.
 

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I have used the 54" for a few years now, Have a few trees and boulders I need to fit between. I enjoy the extra seat time the 54" provides...:cheers:
 

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There is no question, when mowing unlevel terrain, the potential is there for scalping or leaving the grass at different lengths. Actually any deck will do this, even decks with center anti-scalp wheels. Yes, the wider the deck is, the more effect the unlevel terrain has.

Allot of scalping can be minimized by changing the way or direction that you mow your terrain. I know this isn't always possible, but whenever a hill is crested, there is a chance for scalping.
I agree any deck will do this but the wider the deck the more you will notice it. I still am not going out there with a push mower. I am fine with it, but I went with the smaller 60" deck because it would have been more of an issue with the 72" deck. I have tried changing directions. Going down the ditch and back up the other side helps the issue in the bottom but then there is the cresting issue. So I run down the length of the ditch, then I can't cut the bottom or I run up the side a little and I get the strips where it is cut really short. I am sure my 54" does this as well but it wasn't as noticeable. It isn't that much smaller.

Another thing that can impact this is the geometry of the blade. This is more of a trial and error thing though. You know how the blade steps down the cutting edge from where they mount to the spindle? I have several different blades. Some John Deere and some Oregon. I would have to go back and look but some of them step down more than others. I could go and re-level the deck to compensate for this but I don't. Since it doesn't throw the deck level off, I just run a 1/4"-1/2" higher on the HOC. This doesn't help though on the extreme terrain changes though because that is when your anti-scalp wheels come into play. However because the cutting edge is lower in the deck, it is going to scalp or give more of an uneven cut than if the blades were tucked up in the deck more. Unfortunately I normally don't see this measurement in the specs for blades so it will be a trial and error type game.
 

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Your only talking 3 inches different on each side. Yes I used both sizes and functionally no different. The scalping thing of one does and the other doesn’t because of 6 inches difference is hog wash. Think of it, a total of 6 inches is not going to cause that. The scalping is because of poor set up and/or a real choppy lawn surface.

The ability to cut farther out from the wheels of the tractor by 3 inches is nice for areas that is tight. The overall reduction in cutting time difference caused by 6 inches is neglable.

The 60” deck is heavy so is the 54” but not as much.:banghead::banghead:
 

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I've owned both and would never go to another 60" unless my mowing is a flat lawn. Since that isn't going to happen ,,YEP 54" .

Front scalping was never a problem with the 54 or 60" .. Unless the gauge wheels were 1/8" off my driveway , gouges on the lower side mowing across my back yard. Even mowing up and down the hill you could tell something wasn't right.

Way to many times was spent by me, shop mechanic and shop foreman replacing parts adjusting over the 2 years ,,,never again.
 
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