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After cutting my lawn 3 or 4 times and it looking like crap, I decided I'd check to see how well the dealer set up the deck. Well, the right side was about an inch lower than the left and almost an inch difference between front and rear. So, on Friday afternoon I proceeded to get everything level. What a freaking PITA!!! Guess I was spoiled with my x730 and how simple that was. My forearms are bruised from wedging them between the mower and tractor frame. Started raining so I didn't get a chance to test it but I'm really hoping it's level now and I won't have to mess with it for a while! Why couldn't they make it easier??
 

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A properly leveled deck is a good thing to have!:thumbup1gif:
 

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After cutting my lawn 3 or 4 times and it looking like crap, I decided I'd check to see how well the dealer set up the deck. Well, the right side was about an inch lower than the left and almost an inch difference between front and rear. So, on Friday afternoon I proceeded to get everything level. What a freaking PITA!!! Guess I was spoiled with my x730 and how simple that was. My forearms are bruised from wedging them between the mower and tractor frame. Started raining so I didn't get a chance to test it but I'm really hoping it's level now and I won't have to mess with it for a while! Why couldn't they make it easier??
That is no longer a required course for engineers......

At least you were able to get it adjusted. Hopefully it cuts better. :good2:
 

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A level deck is a happy deck and a happy deck makes for a happy lawn owner / tractor owner / tractor operator. Very frustrating to have a poorly cut lawn, especially with new equipment. Sometimes, you have to do it yourself to get it done correctly. Plus there is a lot of satisfaction in knowing how to do something and when your efforts improve the result.
 

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That is no longer a required course for engineers......

At least you were able to get it adjusted. Hopefully it cuts better. :good2:
How ironic your quote is for this thread.....:thumbup1gif:


""Taking the easy way is what makes rivers and men crooked"" (and lawns...:laugh::lol:...)
 

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Engineer's can do it

That is no longer a required course for engineers......

BUT MARKETING WOULDN'T LET THEM!
For what it's worth, my new X758 came from the dealer out of adjustment the same way, 2" left to right, 1" front to back.
 

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That is no longer a required course for engineers......

BUT MARKETING WOULDN'T LET THEM!
For what it's worth, my new X758 came from the dealer out of adjustment the same way, 2" left to right, 1" front to back.
I bought a new 1025R with a 60D in February. The dealer ordered the cab and deck and I put it together.

I don't know about the X758 but the 60D for the 1025R comes on a pallet mostly assembled, the lift arms come in a box with a bag of bolts clevises etc, the driveshaft comes in a box, and the hydraulic lift comes in another box.

It all has to be assembled and adjusted by someone.

I really hate to say it but you can't blame marketing or engineers for this one it's all on whoever put it all together,
 

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The 60" MMM was not level on our 1025R either, but I didn't expect it to be. This was not my first JD tractor, and I never trust the dealer when they tell me it was setup and leveled already. Mine was a PITA also, but it was because I could not get the arms to have a gap on the tallest step of the adjuster. I could not rotate the adjuster 360 degrees. Took me a bit of Google work to find out how to adjust the hydraulics for that. All of the other possible adjustments had been maxed out. We got the tractor in very late December of last year, so I had plenty of time to mess with it before the first mowing.

But as far as the front to back and side to side, that was not that hard. So I'm wondering how you got bruised up doing that?

Ours cuts great. Wife just mowed our acreage yesterday evening and I was checking it out just a few minutes ago. Mostly to see how the new blades worked. The OEM blades are junk. Very lightweight. She'd bent one already, so I replaced them with Oregon gator blades yesterday. Much heavier duty. I got 2 full sets of 3 blades each delivered for $99. Our soil here in the Ozarks is very rocky, so we go through blades here. If we still lived in MN, the stockers probably would have worked fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The 60" MMM was not level on our 1025R either, but I didn't expect it to be. This was not my first JD tractor, and I never trust the dealer when they tell me it was setup and leveled already. Mine was a PITA also, but it was because I could not get the arms to have a gap on the tallest step of the adjuster. I could not rotate the adjuster 360 degrees. Took me a bit of Google work to find out how to adjust the hydraulics for that. All of the other possible adjustments had been maxed out. We got the tractor in very late December of last year, so I had plenty of time to mess with it before the first mowing.

But as far as the front to back and side to side, that was not that hard. So I'm wondering how you got bruised up doing that?

Ours cuts great. Wife just mowed our acreage yesterday evening and I was checking it out just a few minutes ago. Mostly to see how the new blades worked. The OEM blades are junk. Very lightweight. She'd bent one already, so I replaced them with Oregon gator blades yesterday. Much heavier duty. I got 2 full sets of 3 blades each delivered for $99. Our soil here in the Ozarks is very rocky, so we go through blades here. If we still lived in MN, the stockers probably would have worked fine.
My biggest problem was putting the turnbuckle back on after adjusting it. There's not much room between the deck and tractor, especially with the Load n Go, so it was a challenge to get the pin back in while raising the deck so the holes would line up.

I put the mulching kit on mine and the blades seem to do a pretty good job. Luckily no rocks here.

Cut my lawn last night. What a huge difference!
 

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I bought a new 1025R with a 60D in February. The dealer ordered the cab and deck and I put it together.

I don't know about the X758 but the 60D for the 1025R comes on a pallet mostly assembled, the lift arms come in a box with a bag of bolts clevises etc, the driveshaft comes in a box, and the hydraulic lift comes in another box.

It all has to be assembled and adjusted by someone.

I really hate to say it but you can't blame marketing or engineers for this one it's all on whoever put it all together,
I was referring to the OP's comment about making it easier, not the setup job done by the dealer.

It does not seem that serviceability is a primary consideration, more of an afterthought.

Very unlikely that the engineers do much maintenance on the equipment they build and if they did, a re-design would cost too much :gizmo: so we get what we get. Then there is the "you gotta make this work with that" department. :banghead:

I have cussed engineers for a long time while I am twisted and bleeding trying to get to this one _____. I have also spent a good number of years trying to balance the bottom line and a good product for the customer.

As far as setup goes, it all depends on who does the work and how backed up the shop is.

I had a conversation with my dealer about this and their prospective was it is a balance of time over accuracy. They allow for a certain amount of call backs and usually sales gets to "handle the issue". Another free hat or a discount at the parts counter is less costly than the shop time, especially when they are backed up.

If you want it spot on, you better plan on doing it yourself and you also have to realize that you'll have to figure out the tricks of the trade in the process.

That is where sites like this become a valuable resource. Likely there is someone here that has "been there, done that" that can explain how to get to the knewtter valve without disassembling the whole machine.

Every new piece of equipment I've brought home has gone straight to the shop and I spend whatever time it takes to go over it. It is a good way to get acquainted with the new toy.
 

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My biggest problem was putting the turnbuckle back on after adjusting it. There's not much room between the deck and tractor, especially with the Load n Go, so it was a challenge to get the pin back in while raising the deck so the holes would line up.

I put the mulching kit on mine and the blades seem to do a pretty good job. Luckily no rocks here.

Cut my lawn last night. What a huge difference!
:good2:
 

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My biggest problem was putting the turnbuckle back on after adjusting it. There's not much room between the deck and tractor, especially with the Load n Go, so it was a challenge to get the pin back in while raising the deck so the holes would line up.
Ah, gotcha'. I don't have the LoadnGo, and the pins were a little tricky to get back in w/o it. So I bet it was harder with more hardware up there.
Cut my lawn last night. What a huge difference!
Awesome! They cut great when setup correctly.
 

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I was referring to the OP's comment about making it easier, not the setup job done by the dealer.

It does not seem that serviceability is a primary consideration, more of an afterthought.

Very unlikely that the engineers do much maintenance on the equipment they build and if they did, a re-design would cost too much :gizmo: so we get what we get. Then there is the "you gotta make this work with that" department. :banghead:

I have cussed engineers for a long time while I am twisted and bleeding trying to get to this one _____. I have also spent a good number of years trying to balance the bottom line and a good product for the customer.

As far as setup goes, it all depends on who does the work and how backed up the shop is.

I had a conversation with my dealer about this and their prospective was it is a balance of time over accuracy. They allow for a certain amount of call backs and usually sales gets to "handle the issue". Another free hat or a discount at the parts counter is less costly than the shop time, especially when they are backed up.

If you want it spot on, you better plan on doing it yourself and you also have to realize that you'll have to figure out the tricks of the trade in the process.

That is where sites like this become a valuable resource. Likely there is someone here that has "been there, done that" that can explain how to get to the knewtter valve without disassembling the whole machine.

Every new piece of equipment I've brought home has gone straight to the shop and I spend whatever time it takes to go over it. It is a good way to get acquainted with the new toy.
When I worked for the state - each new piece of equipment be it a large grader or a pickup truck went straight to the shop. The mechanic had a checklist tailored for each piece. I saw the one for dump trucks - it had almost 100 items on it.

And here is just one reason. This was on a brand new JCB backhoe with 20 hours on it. The mechanic did go through the machine and the checklist and did torque the wheels. However there wasn't a plan in place to flag the machine at 10 hours to bring it back in for a retorque. This is what happens to machines where there can be 10 different people running them.

An expensive mistake -

IMG_1409.JPG

IMG_1411.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Jeez, you know, I'm not sure you can trust any service people anymore. Non-mower deck related...had new tires put on my kid's car. Couple days later says he noticed a noise coming from the back of the car. Well, I have him take me out for a ride and after hearing it half way down the driveway I tell him to stop. Get out, check the driver's side tire/wheel...IT'S LOOSE!!! To the point where I can move it back and forth! Turns out all the lug nuts on the driver's side rear were loose and three of five on the passenger side were loose. Unbelievable. Torqued them up, called the tire place and gave them hell. Won't be going back there again.

Worst part is that I always check lugnuts after any tire change. Didn't have a chance to do it this time. Lesson learned.
 

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If you want something done right such as mower deck adjustment, ya gotta do it yourself. If you have no capability you’re screwed. It’s to the point if one owns equipment one has to become familiar with it to the point of doing all adjustment and maintenance one’s self or be chained to the dealer.
 

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The leveling is truly a nuisance. One issue on my 2015 is that if it’s level while raised it goes out of level when it’s lowered and being supported by the deck height stop. The problem is that there is enough slip in the mechanism and the deck height stop only supports one side of the deck. So when it is stopped the slack gets taken up on the deck height stop but the other side is still just hanging free so it goes out of level.

My poor solution is to use only the draft arm lift lever to adjust mower height and I do t use the height knob at all. Once I did that it was end of problem. I guess I could always use the knob as well but when I tried that I could never get a level cut when I changed height.
 

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I find the best cut and level is when the 4 guide wheels are about 1/4” off the ground when set to the height selected.

This does not give total range of selection height but does help a lot. The wheel range spread between pin stops is way more than the cam wheel graduations.

I also find that anything closer than the high set “H” is too short grass cut. Makes me think the mower was designed for a tractor with bigger tires.
 
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