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Hey guys. Maybe you can help me. My deck is scalping my yard. Any little high spot gets knocked down. Any incline gets hit either high or low. I know it's not an issue now but it will be in the spring. I was cleaning up the leaves and noticed this. I just bought the machine a very short time ago and this was my excuse to get out and play today. Thanks for your help.
 

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Did you adjust the wheels on the deck? They should be no more than 1/2" above the ground when the deck lowered to its cutting height.
I adjust the wheels on my deck while it is on the concrete floor in my barn. I lower the deck, I then use a piece of 1/2" plywood to set the wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes I did. As I was only going after the leaves I had it set pretty high. It seems to be the center blade doing the scalping.
 

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Have you gone through the deck set up procedures in the manual, what height are setting the deck at? Something is definitely off somewhere, other than one unruly tree root that I've hit a few times I have never scalped my lawn with my 60d.
 
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No I haven't. I bought the machine used, 67 hours on it. I've got to confess, it never crossed my mind to check that. I'll start there and see what happens.
 

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Yes I did. As I was only going after the leaves I had it set pretty high. It seems to be the center blade doing the scalping.
If you have the deck set high & it is still scalping, then there is a problem. Maybe the center blade or spindle is bent. Or as PJ said the deck is not adjusted correctly.
 

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There have been a few threads on adding a center anti-scalp wheel. Someone just posted one in the last month. Search for it or scan the thread listing for the last month.
 

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Adjust, don't mow with the mmm below 3" blade cut height, lower the anti-scalp wheels all the way, and try to mow in directions that minimize cresting hills with the mmm lowered.

Keep in mind, when cresting a hill with the mmm lowered, the distance between the front and rear anti-scalp wheels on the mmm are pretty far apart, so these wheels will also straddle the crest of the hill.

Having two of these makes checking the adjustment easier.
 

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I also have a 1023E with the 60" MMM, on mine it's the center of the deck itself. These decks were designed without a front roller, where the roller would be they have solid piece of steel that acts like a blade on any high spots you cross. During the winter I plan to add a roller to mine to stop the scalping. there are lots of threads on here about this issue. There are also threads on building a front roller. Good Luck
 

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I also have a 1023E with the 60" MMM, on mine it's the center of the deck itself. These decks were designed without a front roller, where the roller would be they have solid piece of steel that acts like a blade on any high spots you cross. During the winter I plan to add a roller to mine to stop the scalping. there are lots of threads on here about this issue. There are also threads on building a front roller. Good Luck
Scalping has much more to do with the terrain of the yard than the mmm itself.

Anytime the mmm straddles a crest of a hill or you mow across the crest of a hill, it can scalp. Keeping any mmm from scalping has mostly to do with the way you mow your lawn. Try to mow in directions that do not put the mmm in these situations.

I have read all the scalping issues with the 60D. The fact is, a 60D doesn't scalp anymore than any other mmm of this size will scalp.

A center deck wheel will hold the mmm up when mowing across the crest of a hill where the side anti-scalp wheels and the tractor tires are straddling the crest of the hill and the middle of the mmm will now be closer to the ground. If you have a middle roller, this will hold the middle of the mmm up so it doesn't scalp in this situation but then the ends of the mmm will be higher off the ground and your grass will be much higher in this situation. The only real solution is to change the direction that you mow these irregular terrains.

I truly believe, most scalping issues with the 60D are caused by these factors:
1. mmm out of adjustment,
2. having the mmm set to low when mowing. A 60D only drops about 1" from fully raised to cut height. Mowing height should be 3" to 3 1/2",
3. trying to mow across the crest of a hill or moving perpendicularly across the crest of a hill while manually raising the mmm.

Check the levelness of the mmm every spring and adjust as needed, keep you blades sharp, try to mow in directions that do not put the mmm in a situation where it straddles a hill, and mow at 3" to 3 1/2". :good2:
 

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Mowing height depends upon the species of the grass. In turn, this is dictated by the climate and soil type. Here, in MN, mowing at 3" or 3.5" would be well beyond the length we normally cut at. 2" is acceptable for a well established lawn that has adequate water. 2.5" is the recommended height when establishing a lawn or when stressed by drought.

I mow at 2.5" throughout the mowing season. My last mow of the season, when I'm doing leaves, is at the then recommended 2". The shorter cut stimulates root growth in the off-season, lessen the chance of winter kill and other lawn issues, and makes it far easier to hand rake in the spring.
 
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On my White GT-1855 I have a 50" deck and bought a parts tractor with a 60" deck and was having problems with the 50" and swapped it out with the 60" deck and it scalped like crazy on the same terrain and same way of mowing. The 60" was just too wide. The decks on this tractor are floating and gives a great cut, but with the 60" being so wide it would tilt and give an uneven cut and scalp at times. Yea, we are talking a different tractor and deck setup, but probably about the same issue. I repaired the 50" and stuck it back on and haven't had problems since.

I am looking at getting a 1025r and been debating between the 54" and the 60". I kinda would like to get the 54" because I'm afraid of the same problem. But all the dealers say the same thing, you can trim around things better with the 60" inch deck so I'm not sure what to do.
 
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