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Discussion Starter #1
Hello I have a 1025R with the 60D auto connect deck and just got the power flow bagger for it, install was a breeze and was trying it out today, the gras was a little long (I was cutting 3" off of 6" of grass) and I couldn't go anywhere near regular mowing speeds (I was crawling through the grass) and the fan and part of the deck that leads to the fan keeps plugging up. Also the manual says the bag farthest from the chute should fill first and then the middle and then the one under the chute last (it even advises that the bag under the chute could be difficult to fill cause of its location) but the middle bag and the bag under the chute fill up just fine but the farthest bag never gets more than 1/4 full.

Any advice on what I can do to remedy the clog and the issue of the one bag not filling up?

Thank you.

Corey
 

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Hello I have a 1025R with the 60D auto connect deck and just got the power flow bagger for it, install was a breeze and was trying it out today, the gras was a little long (I was cutting 3" off of 6" of grass) and I couldn't go anywhere near regular mowing speeds (I was crawling through the grass) and the fan and part of the deck that leads to the fan keeps plugging up. Also the manual says the bag farthest from the chute should fill first and then the middle and then the one under the chute last (it even advises that the bag under the chute could be difficult to fill cause of its location) but the middle bag and the bag under the chute fill up just fine but the farthest bag never gets more than 1/4 full.

Any advice on what I can do to remedy the clog and the issue of the one bag not filling up?

Thank you.

Corey
I have the same setup on my 1025r and I've mowed a few times cutting long grass. I usually mow at about 3.5 to 3.75". Last time I mowed at 2.5. Yes you have to go slow, but I also noticed that the order of fill is irrelevant when cutting grass that long. I'd have the fill indicator show full, open the hopper to find the middle bag heaped but the others half full. However the end of the chute would have a large clump of grass that tripped the indicator. I dumped the bags over 40 times last time I mowed.

I never had the actual fan plug up however. That to me would indicate that you may need to make two passes over the lawn. Instead of cutting 3" off in one pass, make two passes taking 1.5" off each time. You could always go slower, but if it was like mine last time, I couldn't go any slower and still technically being going forward.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have the same setup on my 1025r and I've mowed a few times cutting long grass. I usually mow at about 3.5 to 3.75". Last time I mowed at 2.5. Yes you have to go slow, but I also noticed that the order of fill is irrelevant when cutting grass that long. I'd have the fill indicator show full, open the hopper to find the middle bag heaped but the others half full. However the end of the chute would have a large clump of grass that tripped the indicator. I dumped the bags over 40 times last time I mowed.

I never had the actual fan plug up however. That to me would indicate that you may need to make two passes over the lawn. Instead of cutting 3" off in one pass, make two passes taking 1.5" off each time. You could always go slower, but if it was like mine last time, I couldn't go any slower and still technically being going forward.
That's exactly what I'm seeing, when the grass is shorter will it get better flow wise and fill wise? There is some spots I'm just like you if I went any slower I'd be at a stand still (I'm sure snails were circling me laughing at me) for $3000 you would think they would have designed the bagger better
 

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Corey,

Sorry you are frustrated with the setup. To be accurate, the bagger isn't what is causing you trouble. Its actually the deck. In order to be able to "drive over" the D Decks, they make them very slim. In doing that, they sacrificed alot of air flow, which is what you need to provide lift for the cut and flow for the material.

The bags not filling is just an air flow issue. When conditions are right, it will pack all 3 bags, the hopper top, and the chute if you let it go!

Maybe cut a little less length and more often. If the grass gets out of hand, remove the power flow, blow the grass out and come back an hour later for pickup. You will be able to mow at road speeds! Keep your engine rpm high to get better air flow.

If the grass is really tall, don't be afraid to take a little less than a full pass. If you allow maybe a quarter of the deck to run in the already cut area, you greatly increase its air intake. Even though you are cutting less area, you can have better ground speed and it seems alot less frustrating!

Just like any piece of equipment, once you get used to the "quirks" it will be a lot smoother!

Best of luck! :thumbup1gif:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Corey,

Sorry you are frustrated with the setup. To be accurate, the bagger isn't what is causing you trouble. Its actually the deck. In order to be able to "drive over" the D Decks, they make them very slim. In doing that, they sacrificed alot of air flow, which is what you need to provide lift for the cut and flow for the material.

The bags not filling is just an air flow issue. When conditions are right, it will pack all 3 bags, the hopper top, and the chute if you let it go!

Maybe cut a little less length and more often. If the grass gets out of hand, remove the power flow, blow the grass out and come back an hour later for pickup. You will be able to mow at road speeds! Keep your engine rpm high to get better air flow.

If the grass is really tall, don't be afraid to take a little less than a full pass. If you allow maybe a quarter of the deck to run in the already cut area, you greatly increase its air intake. Even though you are cutting less area, you can have better ground speed and it seems alot less frustrating!

Just like any piece of equipment, once you get used to the "quirks" it will be a lot smoother!

Best of luck! :thumbup1gif:
Thank you for the information and explination, that makes perfect sense and I will give it a try as I got 3 acres to mow still (mix of tall grass and leaves) makes me tempted to pull the bags off and pull a trailer and let the powerflow dump into the trailer, lol.
 

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I mowed part of my yard with the bagger on early this afternoon. Mowing at about 2.25" I was able to cruise along in low range, wide open throttle, with the forward pedal fully depressed. Filled bags to the top each time. As Randy said it's an air flow issue. It's also a length issue. Cutting off 3" in out shot is a bit much. I'd still suggest making two passes if it's that long


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I have found that if you are having any trouble with the power flow unit plugging up or even the chute to or the bagger it is almost always

A. The grass is too long and the clippings are heavy;

or

B. The grass has moisture from irrigation, rain or dew. Maybe not on the surface, but a little moisture will gum things up in a hurry.

If either of those are happening, I will cut the grass without the bagger and then cross cut it at 90 degrees to the first cut within an hour or so of finishing and collect the grass at that time. Often, by time I finish cutting the first cut, things have dried out enought that when I put the collection cart back on the tractor and restart mowing at the opposite angle, it works great. Also, you can travel at a normal mowing speed when using this approach, which I prefer.

A guy down the road has a new 720 Deere with the 54" deck. If his grass clippings are on his yard after he mows he will often ask me to run the MC Cart and Power Flow over his yard and he offers to pay $$, which works for both of us. He doesn't have room to store a collection system and he doesn't want to spend the money to buy one when he can pay me to take care of it for him a couple times a year. He mows 2 acres.

I would also strongly encourage the use of "Gator Blades" or something similar. These are the blades which have the "wings" across from the cutting edge. They also have a tungsten strip on the cutting edge and they hold a nice cutting edge for a long time.

They are not a "original equipment" item as far as I know but Oregon makes a wide range of applications for Deere products. These blades chop the grass into smaller clippings and they also stand the grass up nicely when cutting it. The finished result is noticably better cut.

Changing the direction of your mowing every week also tends to make picking up the clippings easier and it eliminates the "ruts" in the lawn from driving in the same direction every time you mow.

One of my neighbors mows precisely the same way each week and he mows in a circular pattern, which is not conducive to a nice finished cut. When cutting on a sharp corner, the outer edge of the deck is traveling at a different speed than the inner portion of the deck on the corner and the outer grass is not cut as cleanly as if you are going straight.

Granted, there are times when we need to turn but to intentionally always being going in a circular pattern seems unnecessary. Of course this same neighbor can't figure out how to re-engage his mower whenever he backs up so he waits until going forward to restart his deck. One odd fellow for sure.

I like those nice straight lines back and forth, going a different direction every time I cut. It looks like a major league baseball field when I am done.

One last thing, I reach back and touch the top portion of my bagger (mine is the MC519 Cart) to determine how full it really is with clippings. You can feel the firmness of the bags or cart as it fills with clippings.

Also, you can put your hand on the chute from the power flow unit to the baggers and you can feel the air and clippings going thru it.

If you are mowing and the bags feel full and you can't feel the air and clipping going thru the chute, you will soon be taking the chute off and opening the power flow unit up from the deck to clean it out from being plugged. If your power flow unit is plugged, pull the chute out of the power flow unit, take the belt off and swing it on the bracket away from the deck and clean out the power flow where it attaches to the deck chute, then spin the impeller backwards by hand by reaching in and it will back out all of the plugged grass. Sometimes, you will need to tap the chute on the ground to get all of the grass out of it as it can pack in there very tightly.

It's best to keep checking the collection system with reaching back while using it. You will get very good at feeling when it is near full and time to empty before having to take things apart and clean out packed tight grass.
 

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Be sure to have your deck at at least 4" high. You could try a high lift blade. Be sure the hopper fame in on straight and the chute opening is positioned correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have found that if you are having any trouble with the power flow unit plugging up or even the chute to or the bagger it is almost always

A. The grass is too long and the clippings are heavy;

or

B. The grass has moisture from irrigation, rain or dew. Maybe not on the surface, but a little moisture will gum things up in a hurry.

If either of those are happening, I will cut the grass without the bagger and then cross cut it at 90 degrees to the first cut within an hour or so of finishing and collect the grass at that time. Often, by time I finish cutting the first cut, things have dried out enought that when I put the collection cart back on the tractor and restart mowing at the opposite angle, it works great. Also, you can travel at a normal mowing speed when using this approach, which I prefer.

A guy down the road has a new 720 Deere with the 54" deck. If his grass clippings are on his yard after he mows he will often ask me to run the MC Cart and Power Flow over his yard and he offers to pay $$, which works for both of us. He doesn't have room to store a collection system and he doesn't want to spend the money to buy one when he can pay me to take care of it for him a couple times a year. He mows 2 acres.

I would also strongly encourage the use of "Gator Blades" or something similar. These are the blades which have the "wings" across from the cutting edge. They also have a tungsten strip on the cutting edge and they hold a nice cutting edge for a long time.

They are not a "original equipment" item as far as I know but Oregon makes a wide range of applications for Deere products. These blades chop the grass into smaller clippings and they also stand the grass up nicely when cutting it. The finished result is noticably better cut.

Changing the direction of your mowing every week also tends to make picking up the clippings easier and it eliminates the "ruts" in the lawn from driving in the same direction every time you mow.

One of my neighbors mows precisely the same way each week and he mows in a circular pattern, which is not conducive to a nice finished cut. When cutting on a sharp corner, the outer edge of the deck is traveling at a different speed than the inner portion of the deck on the corner and the outer grass is not cut as cleanly as if you are going straight.

Granted, there are times when we need to turn but to intentionally always being going in a circular pattern seems unnecessary. Of course this same neighbor can't figure out how to re-engage his mower whenever he backs up so he waits until going forward to restart his deck. One odd fellow for sure.

I like those nice straight lines back and forth, going a different direction every time I cut. It looks like a major league baseball field when I am done.

One last thing, I reach back and touch the top portion of my bagger (mine is the MC519 Cart) to determine how full it really is with clippings. You can feel the firmness of the bags or cart as it fills with clippings.

Also, you can put your hand on the chute from the power flow unit to the baggers and you can feel the air and clippings going thru it.

If you are mowing and the bags feel full and you can't feel the air and clipping going thru the chute, you will soon be taking the chute off and opening the power flow unit up from the deck to clean it out from being plugged. If your power flow unit is plugged, pull the chute out of the power flow unit, take the belt off and swing it on the bracket away from the deck and clean out the power flow where it attaches to the deck chute, then spin the impeller backwards by hand by reaching in and it will back out all of the plugged grass. Sometimes, you will need to tap the chute on the ground to get all of the grass out of it as it can pack in there very tightly.

It's best to keep checking the collection system with reaching back while using it. You will get very good at feeling when it is near full and time to empty before having to take things apart and clean out packed tight grass.
I've read about those gator blades, I've been looking around to see where I can find a set for my mower locally, do you know the model number or size of blades I would need?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Be sure to have your deck at at least 4" high. You could try a high lift blade. Be sure the hopper fame in on straight and the chute opening is positioned correctly.
For some reason since I installed the bagger my deck won't go that high, it now barely lifts the mower off of the ground and only maybe an inch or so, is that normal due to the extra weight of the powerflow?
 

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Bagger Mount

Could you post a picture of the mount/receiver used to connect the bagger frame to the tractor. I am assuming the bagger set up comes with a plate that bolts in for the bagger from to attach to.

Thanks
 

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Gardnerep,

Go to my website John Deere Material Collection System for I-Match and look at the videos section. The 3rd and 4th videos show the mount and dis-mount process for Deere's draw bar mounting bracket for the hopper. This would be the bracket that comes standard with the MCS. That should get you the info you need.

While you are there, watch the 1st video also for an alternate mounting method for the hopper if you have or are thinking about using it with an I-Match. I may have some still pics of the drawbar mount on my home pc. I could send you some tonight if you still need. Just let me know.

Randy
 

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Corey,

Sorry you are frustrated with the setup. To be accurate, the bagger isn't what is causing you trouble. Its actually the deck. In order to be able to "drive over" the D Decks, they make them very slim. In doing that, they sacrificed alot of air flow, which is what you need to provide lift for the cut and flow for the material.

The bags not filling is just an air flow issue. When conditions are right, it will pack all 3 bags, the hopper top, and the chute if you let it go!

Maybe cut a little less length and more often. If the grass gets out of hand, remove the power flow, blow the grass out and come back an hour later for pickup. You will be able to mow at road speeds! Keep your engine rpm high to get better air flow.

If the grass is really tall, don't be afraid to take a little less than a full pass. If you allow maybe a quarter of the deck to run in the already cut area, you greatly increase its air intake. Even though you are cutting less area, you can have better ground speed and it seems alot less frustrating!

Just like any piece of equipment, once you get used to the "quirks" it will be a lot smoother!

Best of luck! :thumbup1gif:

Randy's response is right on!

If the grass is high or wet or both, you need to take about a one to two foot pass.

It's the same with heavy leaves.

You can hear when the system is struggling, which means you are taking too much.

Phil d
 

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I also have a new 1025r 54 auto connect, power flow, and 20 bushel MCS aluminum dump from seat hopper, my issue is it blows the leaves out from under the deck on the right front of the deck,probably about 20% of them, and there isn't that many on the ground, yet, I live in the country have a nice lawn and leaves are I big part of my 20k purchase, I am very disappointed with this deck system, I had a kubota 20 years and it was twice the mower deck ,vaccume assembly, made much better,vaccume way better. I haven't tried gator blades but I have a set ordered ,I have tried a set of the oragon xt blade they seem a little better than stock blades but not much better. I called my dealer,and got well we don't sale many I don't know, nothing from them in a week sent email to jd customers service, and got form letter see your dealer, I know a little bit about this stuff I have vaccumed my lawn for 20 years, I wish I wood have just bought the MCS hopper and fabed it to old kubota, does john deere have any kind of buy back upgrade program, any suggestions? ???? Or advise would be appreciated
 

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I also have a new 1025r 54 auto connect, power flow, and 20 bushel MCS aluminum dump from seat hopper, my issue is it blows the leaves out from under the deck on the right front of the deck,probably about 20% of them, and there isn't that many on the ground, yet, I live in the country have a nice lawn and leaves are I big part of my 20k purchase, I am very disappointed with this deck system, I had a kubota 20 years and it was twice the mower deck ,vaccume assembly, made much better,vaccume way better. I haven't tried gator blades but I have a set ordered ,I have tried a set of the oragon xt blade they seem a little better than stock blades but not much better. I called my dealer,and got well we don't sale many I don't know, nothing from them in a week sent email to jd customers service, and got form letter see your dealer, I know a little bit about this stuff I have vaccumed my lawn for 20 years, I wish I wood have just bought the MCS hopper and fabed it to old kubota, does john deere have any kind of buy back upgrade program, any suggestions? ???? Or advise would be appreciated
I can see why JD doesn't sell many MCS systems. Wish I could help you more but I am in the same boat... Just bought the $3000 JD (SuperiorTech) MCS system for my 1026R and tried it out this weekend. The lawn was long and damp (but not wet). Since we've had so much rain lately, the grass has a ton of moisture content and it is lush. The system plugged up every few minutes. After clearing the system 5 times, I searched the internet and now I understand that this system works well when the lawn is dry and short (exactly when I don't need it...).

(It is like someone selling an umbrella which works well when it sprinkles but suggests you not use it when it is raining... Do they not understand that that is when you NEED an umbrella???).

I need a system which picks up grass when otherwise it will leave piles all over the lawn. (Also, the dumper blew the fuse after dumping twice for no apparent reason. Replaced it and dumped the third load but still don't know why the fuse blew and whether this will be a lingering problem...)
I did notice that when the system was unable to move the material up the chute it would, indeed, blow out from the right front corner of the deck and that's how I knew the chute had plugged up again. My suspicion is that your chute was backing up and the blower could not move the leaves up the chute fast enough or at all.
For me, the clog starts where the material is exiting the chute into the hopper. Then the chute fills up and then the blower becomes packed. If the clog started in the blower, the chute would not be packed with grass. So the blower just doesn't have quite enough umph to get the heavier grass all the way up the chute and past the curve into the hopper.
Very disappointing so far...:banghead:
 

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Bratbowtie:

When the power flow blower is installed on the deck, the kit includes some baffle plates that are added to the mower deck. If the dealer installed it, you may want to check to see if they actually installed them. Sadly, some dealers really have issues with new equipment setup. I've attached the installation manual so you can identify the baffles.

indyjb:

In my opinion, you're expecting a lot of a collection system to pickup wet grass without clogging. It is not just the powerflow, but it is going to collect/cling into thick clumps on the bottom side of the mower deck. This will impact how well the deck can discharge the grass. Moreover, it will rapidly shorten the life of the deck as the wet clumps of grass act like a sponge, retaining moisture that will rust your deck out.

I replaced the securing nuts, for the drive over plate, with metric wing nuts. In this manner, removing/installing the power flow blower is tool less. I haven't ahd any issues with them loosening up being hand tight after a season of mowing.
 

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