Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
115 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well after having my 1025r for 2 months, I had an issue I couldn't figure out, On my 60"MMM, the auto connect PTO Shaft had an issue today, the shaft for some reason in a bind, the end of the shaft where its suppose to mate with the mower PTO was pointed up nearly straight up, thankfully I never engaged the PTO, if I had, it would have broken something, like the U-Joint or Yoke on the shaft, so after piddling with it for over an hour, I gave up and loaded the MMM and the tractor onto the trailer, for the hour long drive to the John Deere where I bought it. Quality Equipment in Monroe,NC... Well much to my surprise, when I got there, after explaining the situation, Cass, the service manager and a few guys looked at it and within 5 minutes they had fixed the problem!!! They even showed my a trick in case this happened again... Hats off to the guys at Quality Equipment, Monroe, NC, Thats the definition of service!!! I fully expected, and was prepared to have to leave the tractor there and pick it up a few days later, I did not expect them to drop everything were doing to look at mine, I was very pleasantly surprised, I never knew this kind of service even existed anymore!! Thanks again to Cass and the guys at Quality Equipment Monroe, NC!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,942 Posts
I'm glad you have such a good dealer, that is important. Next time you have any issues of any nature with your tractor give a little peek on this site, there have been a couple threads on your exact problem. Might have saved you the labor and drive time. This site is unbelievably helpful, I have read threads where someone has had a problem and next time I was by my little tractor I could check for the same issue. For instance someone wrote about how there exhaust muffler was loose and I found loose bolts on mine as well, and my tractor was old enough to fall into a range of units that were delivered with the steering hydraulic hose able to be rubbed through with the front tire. Read some good solutions and went out and rotated the fittings before the damage was done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
502 Posts
I'm glad you have such a good dealer, that is important. Next time you have any issues of any nature with your tractor give a little peek on this site, there have been a couple threads on your exact problem. Might have saved you the labor and drive time. This site is unbelievably helpful, I have read threads where someone has had a problem and next time I was by my little tractor I could check for the same issue. For instance someone wrote about how there exhaust muffler was loose and I found loose bolts on mine as well, and my tractor was old enough to fall into a range of units that were delivered with the steering hydraulic hose able to be rubbed through with the front tire. Read some good solutions and went out and rotated the fittings before the damage was done.
+1 here
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,735 Posts
OK whats the little trick?? All of us 1025R owners want to know. I am glad you had a good responce from your dealer, we hear about the bad ones all the time but sealdom about the good ones. :yahoo:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,133 Posts
I have an auto connect 60D also. Things that I have learned and have done to mine.

1. Keep all the linkage, drive shaft slip joint and u-joints lubricated.
2. When installing the mmm and you have lowered the auto connect, don't assume it actually lowered. Get off the tractor and take a look under it. You don't have to crawl under, just take a look. Make sure the auto connect has actually lowered, especially if you have the hydraulic mmm lift, and make sure the drive shaft spline hub is aligned properly
3. Keep the splines lubed.
4. I installed nyloc nuts on the driveshaft angle adjustment bolt. This prevents the infamous adjustment bolt from coming loose.
5. When installing, place the PTO control in rear only.
6. Check the set screw in the spline adapter on the mmm gearbox to assure it is tight.

I like the auto connect, but there are more things that have to work properly so that means there are more things to go wrong.
 

·
Read Only
Joined
·
1,932 Posts
I have an auto connect 60D also. Things that I have learned and have done to mine.

1. Keep all the linkage, drive shaft slip joint and u-joints lubricated.
2. When installing the mmm and you have lowered the auto connect, don't assume it actually lowered. Get off the tractor and take a look under it. You don't have to crawl under, just take a look. Make sure the auto connect has actually lowered, especially if you have the hydraulic mmm lift, and make sure the drive shaft spline hub is aligned properly
3. Keep the splines lubed.
4. I installed nyloc nuts on the driveshaft angle adjustment bolt. This prevents the infamous adjustment bolt from coming loose.
5. When installing, place the PTO control in rear only.
6. Check the set screw in the spline adapter on the mmm gearbox to assure it is tight.

I like the auto connect, but there are more things that have to work properly so that means there are more things to go wrong.
Agree but I'll admit I never do #2 anymore and have never done #5. When I first got the tractor two years ago id get off to make sure the arms were down the first 10 times but haven't since. I've never had to put the pto in rear only to connect the MMM.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
115 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I'm glad you have such a good dealer, that is important. Next time you have any issues of any nature with your tractor give a little peek on this site, there have been a couple threads on your exact problem. Might have saved you the labor and drive time. This site is unbelievably helpful, I have read threads where someone has had a problem and next time I was by my little tractor I could check for the same issue. For instance someone wrote about how there exhaust muffler was loose and I found loose bolts on mine as well, and my tractor was old enough to fall into a range of units that were delivered with the steering hydraulic hose able to be rubbed through with the front tire. Read some good solutions and went out and rotated the fittings before the damage was done.

Good point

Thanks

Vince
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
115 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
OK whats the little trick?? All of us 1025R owners want to know. I am glad you had a good responce from your dealer, we hear about the bad ones all the time but sealdom about the good ones. :yahoo:
He Disconnected the driveshaft from the transmission and then lightly tapped on the driveshaft with a hammer, unsticking it and allowing it to expand again, then reinstalled the shaft back on the transmission
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
115 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Agree but I'll admit I never do #2 anymore and have never done #5. When I first got the tractor two years ago id get off to make sure the arms were down the first 10 times but haven't since. I've never had to put the pto in rear only to connect the MMM.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, now that I think about it I think I may have forgotten to lower before trying to autoconnect it, so when I drive over it, they werent lined up and the driveshaft got jammed,

Vince
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
375 Posts
He Disconnected the driveshaft from the transmission and then lightly tapped on the driveshaft with a hammer, unsticking it and allowing it to expand again, then reinstalled the shaft back on the transmission
Did he grease it after it was unstuck? Lack of grease is probably why it got stuck in the first place.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,133 Posts
Agree but I'll admit I never do #2 anymore and have never done #5. When I first got the tractor two years ago id get off to make sure the arms were down the first 10 times but haven't since. I've never had to put the pto in rear only to connect the MMM.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I found when my tractor had the mechanical mmm lift, the linkage always went down because the weight of the 3 point pulls it down. When I changed over to hydraulic lift, the linkage is pulled down by the return spring on the lift cylinder which takes more time for it to lower. Mine always lowers but it does take longer for the linkage to actually lower. Since mine is the hydraulic lift that uses the SCV to control, it also depends on how far you push the SCV when lowering the linkage. On the SCV controlled lift, you actually have to watch how far you push the SCV because you do not want to get into regen or the mmm will actually come back up. The same would be true on the independent lift, although on the independent lift, you only hold the rocker switch, although the lowering is still done by the return spring pulling back the lift cylinder which takes some time.

That said, I just got used to looking at the linkage just to make sure it has lowered. I don't want to take the chance of it not being down all the way. :dunno:

Concerning putting the PTO in rear only. Doing this allows the mid PTO drive shaft to turn easily when installing the mmm. If the driveshaft splines are not aligned, the driveshaft turning easily allows for the alignment to occur easily. Since there is no way the spline shaft on the mmm is going to turn when installing (this shaft does not turn easily, try to turn the shaft on the mmm manually), the only shaft that can turn during installation is the driveshaft.

The jury is still out concerning how long these larger splines on the auto connect will last. JD did make the course spline adapter a larger diameter on the auto-connect. This is because, shaft sizes being equal, fine splines are always stronger than course splines. To get the same design factor for turning torque, they had to make the auto-connect splines larger due to the course splines.

Obviously, JD uses the large splines with long tapers on the ends of the splines to allow for the auto connect splines to engage. I have seen threads on this forum showing the splines showing wear. This is the one reason I say to keep the splines well lubed with extreme pressure grease. The lube will help with the wear. So far, my splines look like new. We'll see!!!

That said, the JD op manual also says to put PTO in rear only during installation. I am one to always say, "READ THE MANUAL".

The auto connect is convenient, especially if you take your mmm off and on allot. I personally do take my mmm off an on all the time so I like the auto connect. I also have a front mount snow blower so I take my entire auto connect mmm linkage off after the mowing season. This gives me a chance to clean all the components, inspect it and lube it.

IMO, if you do not have a front mount snow blower or broom, it would be a good idea to take the auto connect assembly off occasionally to clean, inspect and lube. It isn't very hard to take the entire assembly off. :good2:

There have been numerous threads concerning damage to auto-connect components. All of which, I believe, could have been prevented by looking under the tractor to assure the linkage has actually lowered and checking to assure the driveshaft spline hub looks like it is at the correct angle. If it doesn't look correct, it isn't.

If you own an auto-connect mmm, you should learn how it works and how it should look when connecting so you know when it isn't correct. This can prevent problems that can be costly. :bigthumb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
I almost had an accident with my auto connect like you guys stated. I had my hitch frame on the 3 point and when I lowered the A/C to attach my mmm the hitch frame was touching the ground just barely enough thy I didn't notice but enough to not allow the A/C frame to completely drop. I got lucky and nothing bent but from then on I have always checked it. Have any of u guys ever installed a mower deck on a MF or Kubota??? Well if u have then jumping on and off a couple times to check that your mmm has installed properly is EASY!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
FWIW - before I stated putting the PTO selector into rear only mode, my deck would autoconnect maybe 60% of the time on the first try. With putting it in rear only I've never had it not connect on the first try (usually on my concrete shop floor with no mat or anything else). You do have to remember to do all the things listed in the earlier reply as well (and yes, I've forgotten all of them at one time or another).

IowaGuy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
223 Posts
The single biggest problem with the AutoConnect is the JD marketing department. They represent the action as completely mindless and that you, the operator, are excused from exercising any mechanical aptitude.

In practice, if the operator does a quick visual check after driving over the deck but BEFORE inching forward enough to engage the tapered splines, they can determine if there will be successful engagement. Does this take away the value of the AutoConnect to me? Hell no, its still much easier and more efficient than conventional methods. I take the deck off and on constantly and I love the feature. Is it reduced value as compared to how the process is REPRESENTED. Sure it is.

If it does not appear that there will be successful engagement, then it usually due to the plethora of reasons folks address on this site constantly. Not a level surface. Poor setup by the dealer. Loose or bent parts. Not placing the PTO selector in rear-only.

I hesitate to share this because of the potential hand-slapping (I don't want to hear it) but I personally get off the tractor after driving over the deck but before engaging the AutoConnect. I then look under the tractor and inch the it forward using my hand on the forward HST pedal. I can watch it engage. Always works and would never be recommended by anyone associated with JD.
 

·
Bonehead Club Lackey
Joined
·
10,266 Posts
I must have the odd ball MMM and auto-connect. I never have to this day put the PTO in rear only when connecting. My deck turns easily by hand. I can hook up on grass or cement no problem and I have a 6" roller on the front center of the deck that is ½" lower then the deck. Only problem I have is when I forget to put the gauge in install position because when I take the deck off I always put the MMM arms in the up position and put the gauge in the lock position so I can use the 3PH. At least half the time I take the deck off when I'm done mowing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,942 Posts
I must have the odd ball MMM and auto-connect. I never have to this day put the PTO in rear only when connecting. My deck turns easily by hand. I can hook up on grass or cement no problem and I have a 6" roller on the front center of the deck that is ½" lower then the deck. Only problem I have is when I forget to put the gauge in install position because when I take the deck off I always put the MMM arms in the up position and put the gauge in the lock position so I can use the 3PH. At least half the time I take the deck off when I'm done mowing.
I have never had an issue connecting in mid pto either.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
458 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,554 Posts
I hesitate to share this because of the potential hand-slapping (I don't want to hear it) but I personally get off the tractor after driving over the deck but before engaging the AutoConnect. I then look under the tractor and inch the it forward using my hand on the forward HST pedal. I can watch it engage. Always works and would never be recommended by anyone associated with JD.
No hand slapping here, but... When I'm out of the seat and the parking brake is not engaged Mother Deere herself couldn't operate the forward pedal by hand, foot or nose. Orrrrrrr.....? Maybe there's a seat safety switch that's been, let's call it, "compromised"? Jus wondrin... :hi:
 

·
Bonehead Club Lackey
Joined
·
10,266 Posts
When the Deere commercials state you can do it "without leaving your seat" I expect to be able to do just that.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFSLHfDFYuc&feature=youtu.be

They say you can connect it without getting off. I can do just that, it's the other things I have to get off to do. Set the gauge wheels, run the string to the FEL controls so I can raise the deck guard, check to make sure everything is as it should be. :dunno:
 

·
Bonehead Club Lackey
Joined
·
10,266 Posts
No hand slapping here, but... When I'm out of the seat and the parking brake is not engaged Mother Deere herself couldn't operate the forward pedal by hand, foot or nose. Orrrrrrr.....? Maybe there's a seat safety switch that's been, let's call it, "compromised"? Jus wondrin... :hi:
Nope, bypassed on mine. I'll come right out and say it. :laugh:
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top