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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone. I am unique in the sense I have my early 2017 machine as well as maintain and use my uncles 2014. Same decks same machine as I know.

Last season his tractor struggled to connect in spring time. I ended up adjusting bolt that adjusts the auto connect.

Towards end of season. Decided to clean his deck. Took it off and when attempting to reinstall...no dice. Shaft was angled WAY too high. Well in the means of attempting to mount and fidgeting etc. somewhere along the lines, the rear shaft/deck mount broke. I replaced that cross member and went to bolt the auto connect to it. This is where the issue is, the shaft appears to not slide out of the intermediate shaft on the tractor far enough to set the right angle. Essentially the shaft is aimed towards the motor and won't pull far enough out to mount it at a different angle.

This is speculation in comparison to mine/backyard mechanic opinion. Pics below. Thanks for any input.


Mine
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle


Problem child
Crankset Automotive tire Tool Bicycle chain Motor vehicle






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I would remove the problem child drive shaft and clean and lubricate it. Looks like some binding to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I would remove the problem child drive shaft and clean and lubricate it. Looks like some binding to me.
That was my thought. I'm only a backyard mechanic and farm band but the shaft should pull out of the intermediate shaft on the tractor right ? It does not want to come out more than about an inch and a half. It's greased but I think it's rusted up or something.

It didn't budge at all and then I was plowing with it and went over a pile of snow apparently too big. Low nd behold all of a sudden I could move the shaft in and out a little. But I wasn't sure if the primary should pull all the way out or not.
 

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I believe that the shaft should not pull apart unless it is miss adjusted. Most shafts have a stop built in so they will stay together. I am not sure on my 1026R as the shaft has been removed since the fall of 2013 when I installed the Snow Blower. It is setting on a shelf in the barn, out of site out of mind. I used my 54" mower deck for one season and then went back to the 445 for mowing duty. I know the Snow Blower shaft has a set screw that has to be adjusted properly so the shaft will slide freely and still not pull apart. If the Allen Screw is to tight the shaft binds and if to loose, the shaft will fall apart when moving the blower. It is a fine line to adjust it on the blower. I would inspect your shaft carefully for any set screw and loosen it just a frog hair and retry. The shaft should move a lot more than an inch and a half of movement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I believe that the shaft should not pull apart unless it is miss adjusted. Most shafts have a stop built in so they will stay together. I am not sure on my 1026R as the shaft has been removed since the fall of 2013 when I installed the Snow Blower. It is setting on a shelf in the barn, out of site out of mind. I used my 54" mower deck for one season and then went back to the 445 for mowing duty. I know the Snow Blower shaft has a set screw that has to be adjusted properly so the shaft will slide freely and still not pull apart. If the Allen Screw is to tight the shaft binds and if to loose, the shaft will fall apart when moving the blower. It is a fine line to adjust it on the blower. I would inspect your shaft carefully for any set screw and loosen it just a frog hair and retry. The shaft should move a lot more than an inch and a half of movement.
Good advice and unfortunately I failed to include details about the screw. Yes it does include it. I took the screw COMPLETELY OUT and still couldn't move the shaft. Like I said now it has about 1-1.5" of travel. I suspect that should not the the case. Perhaps I forgot about greasing the shaft for a season and it locked up on me. I greased it last year before issues and noted it didn't take grease.
 

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... Perhaps I forgot about greasing the shaft for a season and it locked up on me. I greased it last year before issues and noted it didn't take grease.
IMO greasing the pto shaft by using the zerk isn't going to do a thorough job. The side of the shaft facing the zerk gets (most of) the lube. Better to remove the set screw, pull the shaft apart, clean the old gunk out, check for binding/rust/etc. then sparingly apply grease on all sliding surfaces, reassemble.
 

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I think your only option is to remove it and start forcefully but gently moving it back and force. Maybe using penetrating oil quite liberally as you work it back and force. If you have a vice, I would clamp it in and then use a a dead blow or other soft faced hammer to force it back and forth. When it stops, bang it back in the other direction. It will come apart as you already have some motion, I don't think it will take a lot of work.
 

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From experience the cradle is not the the binding problem. the binding is from the gooseneck assy trying to align and your shaft has age old goop, grease and who knows what. There no way that mess is going to move in and out. Probably many people over grease this and allow a build up which hardens. I've got a 1025r but not necessary a fan of the youckel gooseneck. It is a contraction that allows the owner to mow in coat and tie where a simple old fashion drive shaft would have been adequate after doing the drive over. I'm not even sure the drive over is a good ideal as I've used the roll under technic and all it requires is a simple house. Folks are tearing up these mechanisms left and right and a high percentage of this forum is about the same complaints.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Agreeing with opinions here. It needs forces apart. Certainly makes me wanna dismantle mine and manually grease it all up and reassemble. Like some on here I'm convinced the issues and poor quality of cut would lead me to not recommend a deck on a 1025r. Love it for a lot else. Not this.
 

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put something over you belts and take brake cleaner and spray while working it....probably will loosen up...just don't need all that much greas....
 

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cleaning and lubing that entire mower drive bracket assembly regularly helps a lot. It comes totally off for the snow blower install every November and I also take it off mid summer 1/2 way thru mowing season. A lot of crap has stuck and or built up on mine. I clean it really well, grease the zerks and fluid film anything else that moves. I also purchased from JD those plastic bushings that go around the rod where the rod goes thru another metal member of the assembly. Sometimes they have fallen out on guys and round holes became oval. Not the greatest setup but regular cleaning and lubrication helped me avoid any problems.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
cleaning and lubing that entire mower drive bracket assembly regularly helps a lot. It comes totally off for the snow blower install every November and I also take it off mid summer 1/2 way thru mowing season. A lot of crap has stuck and or built up on mine. I clean it really well, grease the zerks and fluid film anything else that moves. I also purchased from JD those plastic bushings that go around the rod where the rod goes thru another metal member of the assembly. Sometimes they have fallen out on guys and round holes became oval. Not the greatest setup but regular cleaning and lubrication helped me avoid any problems.
Sounds like people have different opinions on the shaft coming out but it could be lack of experience with front driveshaft extension that you have.

Good advice. I never gave it any thought but will have to check it out on mine. I don't want to deal with this again. Auto connect is neat when it works. When it doesn't man is it irritating ha
 
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if the unit is not maintained properly and connected properly...it's like pushing a limber stick in a hole.....
 
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