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Discussion Starter #1
I installed the new 60" auto deck today on my 1025R and everything lined up great and went smooth as silk, but I checked the blade heights from side to side and the left side showed probably 1/2" -3/4" lower then the chute side. I adjusted the gold clevis's until the blades measured even from one side to the other lowering the deck to the correct mowing height with that adjuster. The weird part is that the clevis's are not even close to the same lengths now. The chute side threaded portion is flush with the bottom of the threaded hole and the left side has about 1/2" of threads showing. It looks odd from underneath too. I had the deck all the way up and slowly lowered it watching the two main arms that the clevis's connect to. They go down even and then the left one stops and then the chute side one continues down a little more and then stops. You can watch the deck on the left side stop lowering and then the chute side continues down a little more, but that is when the blades are the same height from the ground on a level surface. I figured the two gold clevis would be about the same length when it is correct. They were about even when I got the tractor, but the blades were not even from side to side. To check the blade height, I am lowering the deck down to where it stops using the height adjuster. The first time I just lowered it and stopped the height with the hydraulics and leveled it, but then when I lowered it to stop with the adjuster it wasn't even close. It really seems weird though to lower the deck and see the left side stop and the right side keeps going a little. Also if the engine is at idle and you start the deck, it sounds pretty noisy like rocks in a coffee can. Everything feels smooth to turn by hand, but the belt is flopping quite a bit and the tensioner spring is just shaking like crazy at 1500 idle speed. If I raise the rpm's to 3000 or so if feels like it smooths out a lot, but the engine is so loud, it's hard to tell. I mowed a section of the yard since it is all new, I thought maybe it was just tight, but ti's just as noisy as before I started at idle. Is this just the nature of the beast? I had the deck on for a short time when I first got it and I didn't leave it on but I did turn the deck on for just a few seconds and I swear I commented on how smooth it was compared to my old 445 deck. But now it sounds rattly. Is the deck in a twist or something now that I adjusted the height and making it noisy . Any ideas???
 

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When you installed the deck , wondering did you have to put the hangers on to the tractor or just drive over the deck and ready to attach.
I had to put both arms and the cross arm. the two gold clevis that attach to tractor can only go one way. The p goes toward the back of tractor maybe you have one of them reversed . That will keep the deck from dropping down smoothy .
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The "P" shape is on correctly. I took the deck completely back off and the little gizzmos that the "P" shape goes over must just not be welded onto that shaft exaclty the same on both sides, because with the deck off and the arms hanging down, if I measure from the floor up to the center of the bolts that go into the slit for the auto-connect, they measure the same distance even though the threads are not exposed the same amount in the clevis's. This setting keeps my blades the same height form side to side.
 

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1025R auto MMM

It does sound weird that your hangers are so far off. Mine are exactly the same length on both sides and the mower hangs perfectly level. When lowered, the blades are exactly the same on both sides of the deck.
You had mentioned when you lower the deck, the one side stops while the other side continues to lower. This sounds weird as the mower deck hangs on the same hangers when raised as it does when lowered so I can't figure why when lowering it, one side would continue down further.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
It does sound weird that your hangers are so far off. Mine are exactly the same length on both sides and the mower hangs perfectly level. When lowered, the blades are exactly the same on both sides of the deck.
You had mentioned when you lower the deck, the one side stops while the other side continues to lower. This sounds weird as the mower deck hangs on the same hangers when raised as it does when lowered so I can't figure why when lowering it, one side would continue down further.
Yeh, That is weird. I will have to look it all over again, because like you said I noticed that the bracket that the clevis hang from are welded onto the same cross shaft, so there seems that there wold be no way that one side could go farther the the other and both would stop a the same time. I need to look at that again. Thanks!
 

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[You can watch the deck on the left side stop lowering and then the chute side continues down a little more, but that is when the blades are the same height from the ground on a level surface.]


Mine does the same thing. I will have to look at this closer to see how to fix this.
 

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"You can watch the deck on the left side stop lowering and then the chute side continues down a little more, but that is when the blades are the same height from the ground on a level surface."


Mine has been doing this also for two years now. Not too worried about it - deck is level when it's down and cuts good. My quick deck level check is my fingers under the corner wheels while on concrete and then cutting I go.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
"You can watch the deck on the left side stop lowering and then the chute side continues down a little more, but that is when the blades are the same height from the ground on a level surface."


Mine has been doing this also for two years now. Not too worried about it - deck is level when it's down and cuts good. My quick deck level check is my fingers under the corner wheels while on concrete and then cutting I go.
Yep, I used that JD blade gauge to level the deck, but I noticed that after I was done the wheels on all four corners where almost identical height form the floor. So the wheel brackets must be designed to be pretty darn level with the blades side to side. So if you notice the wheels on one side being much different from the other side, you know something needs checked. (as long as you have the wheel pins in the same hole heights) Thanks! It's nice to know mine isn't just being weird!
 

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1025r same MMM issue

I just took delivery of a 1025R and I am having the same issue with my MMM as 1025RGardner. I leveled the deck for my selected cut height. However, When the deck weight is supported by the rockshaft and lift strap (3pt mechanical lift setup) the right side (from the operators seat) is about 3/4 of an inch higher than the left. When the deck is lowered to the selected cut height and the deck weight is transferred to the lift arms you can see the left side stop (as the left lift arm contacts the height stop cam) and then the right side will drop a little more. It's like there is excessive play or slop between the lift arms and the rock shaft. The lift arms are keyed to the rock shaft; I wonder if there is something wrong with this connection. The only thing I can think of doing is remove the rockshaft and check the fit of the key ways in the lift arms and rockshaft. If anyone else has this same problem and knows of a fix please let me know. Maybe it is considered normal but I wouldn't think so. I have a 445 and the deck does not do this. Thanks for you help.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I just took delivery of a 1025R and I am having the same issue with my MMM as 1025RGardner. I leveled the deck for my selected cut height. However, When the deck weight is supported by the rockshaft and lift strap (3pt mechanical lift setup) the right side (from the operators seat) is about 3/4 of an inch higher than the left. When the deck is lowered to the selected cut height and the deck weight is transferred to the lift arms you can see the left side stop (as the left lift arm contacts the height stop cam) and then the right side will drop a little more. It's like there is excessive play or slop between the lift arms and the rock shaft. The lift arms are keyed to the rock shaft; I wonder if there is something wrong with this connection. The only thing I can think of doing is remove the rockshaft and check the fit of the key ways in the lift arms and rockshaft. If anyone else has this same problem and knows of a fix please let me know. Maybe it is considered normal but I wouldn't think so. I have a 445 and the deck does not do this. Thanks for you help.
Yep, I layed under my tractor for a long time trying to figure out how one side could stop any different than the other since both brackets with the "P" clevis are connected to the same shaft. And if you set the blades level with the weight hanging on the hydraulics and not the height stop, it isn't even close to being level after you lower it down on the height stop. Another weird one is occasionally if I mess with the height gauge and change it slightly, and then lower the deck, the deck will go down and then a second or two later I will hear a small bang that sounds like it dropped further. On the height adjuster thing, I noticed it has like ledges on it. Can it be that I am right on the very edge of one of those edges and then the weight of the deck causes it to drop off of the ledge to the next one??
 

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Is there anyway you can remove the mower and inspect the mid rockshaft? It sounds like your issue will be found within that assembly.



Check the fitment on items 14, 15, and 31.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The next time I have the deck off, I am going to go over all of that stuff. It just makes no sense how one side can stop and the other side keep going a little.
 

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It may be a day or two before I get to it but I am going to remove the mid rockshaft for the MMM and look at the keys and key ways for the lift arms. That is the only thing I can think of. I will let you know what I fined.
 

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Well, I went to inspect the MMM lift linkage further to see if I could figure out my adjustment/lift problem. However, when I came into the shop I noticed some oil on the floor by the mower deck. It turns out the seal on the gearbox has went bad. With only 30 minutes of mowing on the deck and gearbox I decided to load the tractor and deck up and take it back to the dealer for repair. I explained the MMM adjustment/lift problems I was having and they are going to look into it. I will see what they come up with. Hope this isn't just the beginning of problems with this new 1025R.
 

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Just A Reminder

Guys,

First try - hooking up my 60D, it failed to connect to the mechanical lift. Yikes, this isn't supposed to happen any more. So I checked that I'm doing everything right - 4 wheel drive, low gear, 3ph lever down, good alignment. Oh, I forgot to set the height control knob to Install.

Second try - 4 wheel drive, low gear, height knob at Install, 3 ph lever down, good alignment. Still won't hook up. Oh, I forgot to set the 3ph lever stop all the way forward. The 3ph was stopping at the stop that I had set up for dethatching yesterday so the MMM arms were not going all the way down.

Third try - everything adjusted right this time and it attached perfectly. Like I've said before, miss one step and it's not going to hook up but when I get everything just right ... it's MAGICAL.
 
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Took mmm off a couple days ago to install fel,bh. Today removed them and was dreading the thought of installing mmm. I was in a hurry the other evening when I removed the mmm. Went to a spot in back yard with slight slope and removed the mmm instead of taking it off in the shed.
Put tractor in 4wd, made sure hyd lift in install , forgot about pto lever, and pulled up over the deck, everything going OK had to turn the wheel just a tad to get the front to go into the hooks. Continued inching forward and CLICK.
Hey ,,, It worked like it should .. Second time this summer. Maybe after all the bad experience last summer, and HELP from this site finally got it adjusted.

My dealer had it adjusted when delivered , I'm the one who messed all there adjustments.
 
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