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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 2021 1025R with a power beyond. I use a JD iMatch on my three point hitch. I want to add the following to the back of the tractor:
  • backhoe
  • top & tilt
  • TTWT rear hydraulic kit
Here's the question: Does anyone out there have a backhoe, top and tilt, and iMatch on the back of their 1025R? If so, how much of a PIA is it to remove and re-install the three point hitch with the top and tilt cylinders in order to install and remove the backhoe?
 

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I have a 2021 1025R with a power beyond. I use a JD iMatch on my three point hitch. I want to add the following to the back of the tractor:
  • backhoe
  • top & tilt
  • TTWT rear hydraulic kit
Here's the question: Does anyone out there have a backhoe, top and tilt, and iMatch on the back of their 1025R? If so, how much of a PIA is it to remove and re-install the three point hitch with the top and tilt cylinders in order to install and remove the backhoe?
Shouldn't be any more difficult that the normal TPH other than the hydraulic lines.
 

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Early 2017 Vintage 1025R TLB (260/H120)
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I've got a hydraulic top link, not the tilt. Removal/installation is pretty easy with iMatch, just keeping everything attached to the iMatch. Tilt would add two additional quick disconnects and hose routing, so extra 45seconds, maybe?

Also note: I'm pretty sure there is currently only one option for a "tilt" on 1023/5/6 with the BH - And that's fitrite hydraulics (@MtnViewRanch ) due to the subframe...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've got a hydraulic top link, not the tilt. Removal/installation is pretty easy with iMatch, just keeping everything attached to the iMatch. Tilt would add two additional quick disconnects and hose routing, so extra 45seconds, maybe?

Also note: I'm pretty sure there is currently only one option for a "tilt" on 1023/5/6 with the BH - And that's fitrite hydraulics (@MtnViewRanch ) due to the subframe...
Thank you, Matt, that is really helpful. I didn't know there was a subframe issue with some tilt options; good to know. As it happens, I was already planning on getting Brian's T&T kit; now I know that's the right one to do. Thanks again!
 

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1025R, '30 Ford, '08 Range Rover Supercharged, '63 MGB, '92 300ZX twin turbo, '73 Courier 2.3 turbo
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Thank you, Matt, that is really helpful. I didn't know there was a subframe issue with some tilt options; good to know. As it happens, I was already planning on getting Brian's T&T kit; now I know that's the right one to do. Thanks again!
I have Brian's Top & Tilt with iMatch on my 1025R. I also have the back hoe. Switching from one to the other is easier with a back hoe dolly. The
T&T is easy to remove and replace - with a little practice. The back hoe subframe is a non-issue.
 

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A dolly for the imatch also makes the process much easier. that thing gets heavier every year.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
A dolly for the imatch also makes the process much easier. that thing gets heavier every year.
Yes, @KeyboardJungle, I was thinking a dolly for the imatch would make the process faster and easier. Have you built one? If so, I'd love to see a pic.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have Brian's Top & Tilt with iMatch on my 1025R. I also have the back hoe. Switching from one to the other is easier with a back hoe dolly. The
T&T is easy to remove and replace - with a little practice. The back hoe subframe is a non-issue.
@Minuteman17, perfect. That's exactly what I needed to know. Thanks.
 

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Yes, @KeyboardJungle, I was thinking a dolly for the imatch would make the process faster and easier. Have you built one? If so, I'd love to see a pic.
Here are some pics. I used a furniture dolly from HF and some scraps of wood that I had laying around. Nothing fancy, but it works well.

Automotive tire Tire Motor vehicle Asphalt Wood
Wheel Tire Sewing machine Vehicle Automotive tire
Wood Automotive tire Gas Machine Metal
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

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2020 1025R, 120R, 54D
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
@MarkEagleUSA - yes. But please tell me--why the bowtie cotters instead of lynch pins? I would have bought these from you already if you provided lynch pins. The whole point is to be able to move the top hook without grabbing any tools, which I can do with lynch pins. But with the bowties, I still need to pull out a pair of pliers. So my only solution is to buy the pieces from Grainger instead of supporting you. And I'd much rather buy from y'all.
 

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@MarkEagleUSA - yes. But please tell me--why the bowtie cotters instead of lynch pins? I would have bought these from you already if you provided lynch pins. The whole point is to be able to move the top hook without grabbing any tools, which I can do with lynch pins. But with the bowties, I still need to pull out a pair of pliers. So my only solution is to buy the pieces from Grainger instead of supporting you. And I'd much rather buy from y'all.
Mark does not sell these, I (we) do.
But to answer the question, the bow ties do not need tools to remove, they are just harder to remove than lynch pins, and that is the point…lynch pins are easily pulled out when working the equipment. Our extended iMatch hook is also shown in the pics above.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Mark does not sell these, I (we) do.
But to answer the question, the bow ties do not need tools to remove, they are just harder to remove than lynch pins, and that is the point…lynch pins are easily pulled out when working the equipment. Our extended iMatch hook is also shown in the pics above.
Thank you, @Kennyd!
 
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1025R, '30 Ford, '08 Range Rover Supercharged, '63 MGB, '92 300ZX twin turbo, '73 Courier 2.3 turbo
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And KennyD's extended hook is a terrific modification for the iMatch. It saves time and is easily adjustable for those implements that say "iMatch compatible", but they aren't - without Kenny
D's hook or a struggle.
 
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