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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a two year old 1025r. The left backhoe lever has been sticky from the start - making an audible sound of rubbing from inside the valve. The boom in/out would not return to "neutral" when released. After two attempts at adjusting the linkage, the dealer replaced the complete valve assembly. It was still sticky. They ordered another new valve (very expensive) and replaced it again. Still not as it should be, but I lived with it.

However, after a year with this new valve it has slowly gotten worse. Now the swing left/right is sticky as well. The right lever has always worked great. It only swings right very slowly now, and sticks there - sometimes leaking so slowly I don't even know it is stuck until a couple of minutes later and it has swung all the way right. Of course that is sucking power from other motions - and terrible for the pump.

It's so bad now, it is dangerous to work with. I try lifting/digging something too heavy and the tractor starts to tilt so I release the lever and the tractor continues to tilt.

I've never taken the backhoe off. But I've watched how to do it and wish to do it soon. It would just be impossible to do it safely the way the levers stick.

Can anyone give me (and the dealer) some advice as to why this seems to be impossible to fix? I'm hoping someone may have heard or discovered something in the 1 1/2 years since I asked this question a while back.
 

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My left control was sticking some. I sprayed fluid film all over the linkages and used it and used it. If I washed it I sprayed the linkages again and again. I put rubber boots on the control sticks to help keep dirt away from the linkages. I notice JD puts boots on the new ones. And after a bit of time the sticking was gone! Oh and I never. And I repeat never keep it outside in the elements! Hope this helps.
 
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I have a two year old 1025r. The left backhoe lever has been sticky from the start ...
I have also had the same problem from the start, and it has caused at least two incidents upon removal/reinstall. Not to mention the many times when it has not returned to neutral during operation. The dealer picked it up to look at it shortly after I got it, but returned it without any improvement.

I finally concluded that this is just a problem with the 1025r backhoe controls, and learned to (carefully) live with it. I *always* insert the left/right transport pin before I remove the unit, and it makes the operation much more predictable and safe, as the L/R swing is the "stickiest" control.

I'm curious to see if others chime in to report that they have, or don't have, this problem. I love everything about the 1025r, but find this problem troublesome enough that I would consider a different color machine if I ever replace it. (but would probably stay with green...)
 

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Ive got the newer 260B, but no sticking, so I cant offer a concrete solution.

My guess is, since the OPs control valve was replaced twice, that the valve itself is unlikely to be the issue.
Id look at the linkage itself for any rough spots, and see if heavily lubing would help. One poster said his went away after doing this. This also indicates its not likely a valve issue, as the issue would likely get worse with wear on the valves.
Assuming it sticks when not running also, you could double check that by disconnecting all linkages, and operate the valve to be sure it returns to neutral. Id do this with the tractor NOT running. If it works, reconnect and try again. From there it should just be a process of elimination to find the culprit.
 
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I have also had the same problem from the start, and it has caused at least two incidents upon removal/reinstall. Not to mention the many times when it has not returned to neutral during operation. The dealer picked it up to look at it shortly after I got it, but returned it without any improvement.

I finally concluded that this is just a problem with the 1025r backhoe controls, and learned to (carefully) live with it. I *always* insert the left/right transport pin before I remove the unit, and it makes the operation much more predictable and safe, as the L/R swing is the "stickiest" control.

I'm curious to see if others chime in to report that they have, or don't have, this problem. I love everything about the 1025r, but find this problem troublesome enough that I would consider a different color machine if I ever replace it. (but would probably stay with green...)
Question please: Does your right control lever stick at all? Or is it just the left? I have only had a problem with the left one.

Don't take this wrong - but I'm glad to hear someone else has issues as well, and I'm not alone in my frustration. But I too might ditch this machine - even though I like everything else about it. As it sounds as if you may have given up on a fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ive got the newer 260B, but no sticking, so I cant offer a concrete solution.

My guess is, since the OPs control valve was replaced twice, that the valve itself is unlikely to be the issue.
Id look at the linkage itself for any rough spots, and see if heavily lubing would help. One poster said his went away after doing this. This also indicates its not likely a valve issue, as the issue would likely get worse with wear on the valves.
Assuming it sticks when not running also, you could double check that by disconnecting all linkages, and operate the valve to be sure it returns to neutral. Id do this with the tractor NOT running. If it works, reconnect and try again. From there it should just be a process of elimination to find the culprit.
Agreed - if replacing valve doesn't help, and almost everyone else have no issues, then something else must be happening. However, when new (with first valve) you could actually hear a loud rubbing noise from within the valve when moving the boom control in/out when machine was off.

That guy with linkage issues, and that lubing helped, was after it was stored outside and partially frozen. My issue was from day one, and I tried teflon lubing right at the start with no effect whatsoever - and it's always garaged. But at first it was only boom in/out - now it is swing right left as well.

I've tried tinkering with the linkage adjustments (as did the mechanic at the dealer), and could of made it worse. The controls were loose, with lots of play in them when new. I tried taking that play out and things still stuck. I'm not sure how they are supposed to be adjusted, or if an incorrect adjustment could actually cause this issue. It looks to me as if they could just make operation "sloppy" with lots of play, but shouldn't restrict the actual movement of the spool up and down. Any feedback?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ive got the newer 260B, but no sticking, so I cant offer a concrete solution.

you could double check that by disconnecting all linkages, and operate the valve to be sure it returns to neutral.
Is this even possible? From what I saw while watching the repair, it looked to me as if you couldn't move the spool manually if things were disconnected - not proper leverage or attachment possible.
 

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Is this even possible? From what I saw while watching the repair, it looked to me as if you couldn't move the spool manually if things were disconnected - not proper leverage or attachment possible.
You would just use the linkage attachment points to move the spools. It wouldnt be easy to do necessarily, but it would tell you where the problem was.
Its not likely to be the valve, as this sounds like you are on your 3rd one, but it is a possibility that there is a defect in the manufacturing process for that valve.
If you know its only on one or two spools, you could just check those.

There are a few guys on here who have swapped the control pattern on their backhoes to the other pattern, and have had to disassemble those portions of the valve to do so. Could be something stuck in there I suppose...the tolerances are very tight. Any little bit of anything caught in there would cause problems. Seems odd that youd have something caught in 3 different valves though.
 

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My left stick also will stick sometimes. I have noticed it only happens when up to operating temperature and only when the right side stabilizer is in the down position with a load on it. Release the pressure on the stabilizer and the boom lever never sticks.

The next time it sticks, see if raising the stabilizer has any effect.
 

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...Does your right control lever stick at all? Or is it just the left? I have only had a problem with the left one...
Just the left one, mostly when swinging the boom left to right. When the sales guy delivered it, he almost pulled the hydraulic line apart when showing me how to remove and replace the backhoe, because the lever stuck. That prompted them to take it back and take a look at it.
 

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I have a two year old 1025r. The left backhoe lever has been sticky from the start - making an audible sound of rubbing from inside the valve. The boom in/out would not return to "neutral" when released. After two attempts at adjusting the linkage, the dealer replaced the complete valve assembly. It was still sticky. They ordered another new valve (very expensive) and replaced it again. Still not as it should be, but I lived with it.

However, after a year with this new valve it has slowly gotten worse. Now the swing left/right is sticky as well. The right lever has always worked great. It only swings right very slowly now, and sticks there - sometimes leaking so slowly I don't even know it is stuck until a couple of minutes later and it has swung all the way right. Of course that is sucking power from other motions - and terrible for the pump.

It's so bad now, it is dangerous to work with. I try lifting/digging something too heavy and the tractor starts to tilt so I release the lever and the tractor continues to tilt.

I've never taken the backhoe off. But I've watched how to do it and wish to do it soon. It would just be impossible to do it safely the way the levers stick.

Can anyone give me (and the dealer) some advice as to why this seems to be impossible to fix? I'm hoping someone may have heard or discovered something in the 1 1/2 years since I asked this question a while back.
I ALWAYS have the swing pin in, so there is no side to side movement. Once off everything is fully curled and the boom pin is put in, releasing the pressure on it. very easy, but be cautious. Sticking valves, I had it one time, then it freed up almost immediately. Need to lube it come to think of it....
 

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When I first bought my backhoe, one of the levers would not return to center. The dealer's tech had to replace a spring assembly in the bottom of the manifold. To get there, he had to disconnect the levers from the valve assemblies. There's a lot of connections there. (After everythings disconnected, you can just lay the manifold down to access the bottom. After fixing the original problem, he had to reconnect the levers and valve assemblies, He was having trouble with the levers sticking. Everything was well lubed, but you have to align the connections just right and then tighten the bolts without changing the alignment. With a lot of trial and error, he finally got everything moving okay. It's one of those jobs where you need 3 or 4 good hands to do it easily. It's not a real elegant design.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
When I first bought my backhoe, one of the levers would not return to center. The dealer's tech had to replace a spring assembly in the bottom of the manifold. To get there, he had to disconnect the levers from the valve assemblies. There's a lot of connections there. (After everythings disconnected, you can just lay the manifold down to access the bottom. After fixing the original problem, he had to reconnect the levers and valve assemblies, He was having trouble with the levers sticking. Everything was well lubed, but you have to align the connections just right and then tighten the bolts without changing the alignment. With a lot of trial and error, he finally got everything moving okay. It's one of those jobs where you need 3 or 4 good hands to do it easily. It's not a real elegant design.
Thanks - so there's hope - if I can only find a dealer mechanic good and patient enough to figure it out. Problem is I have a choice of one only. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Update:

My backhoe is finally working as it should. But it took forever, and I was even considering buying a new tractor because it was such a hassle to use. With the second "main valve" (completely new, spools and all) things were even worse than ever. I had to push several of the levers back to "center" to stop them. It was not only a pain, but dangerous - and impossible to get the backhoe on and off.

I was living with it until I decided to give the Dealer one more try - he was sick of it too. But he ordered another valve (third one), and after a 3-4 month wait (things move ultra-slow here in Hawaii) he came up and replaced it again. And it works now. It turns out after waiting so long I guess I got a "new" run of those valves. The Dealer mentioned there was a problem there for a while.

After working on it so long with the funky controls, it is surprising how good and smooth I can operate it now. :)

Only problem is I don't have an excuse to buy a new machine now. :)
 

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Linkage adjustment is a pain but needed

First glad to hear it worked out. Also you can always find an excue for a new tractor!

I swapped some of the spools in my valve body to change from ISO pattern (JD, kubota etc) to SAE pattern back hoe controls (CAT). The linkage/placement on those heim joints is a royal pain in the butt! I will second the fact that you have to get it adjusted just right then tighten down the bolt. If it moves even a little bit it will bind. This is one instance when a little bit of slop in tolerances would be highly desirable!

In the case of the OP it sounds like he had the added issue of a bad valve as well. Thats seems like a rare occurance. Adjust your linkage if its sticky/binding first. Probably will fix your problem.

Looks like they fixed this in the 260B as the few I have tried out are silky smooth. Better than brand new 260’s.

I sure wish John Deere went with a stacked valve instead of a monolithic valve body. If it was a stacked set up they could’ve saved some money in the OP’s case by just unbolting the bad spool vale and replacing it with a new section instead of replacing the whole thing. Also assuming there’s room in a stack valve you can add more stacks for more functions for instance it would be very easy to add a hydraulic thumb.
 
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