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Hi All...newly registered user here so this is my first post...and sorry it has to be so lengthy. I've been watching threads here for a while but have had nothing worthy to post so didn't register previous. Now, I have an issue that others may want to hear about.

I last changed my transmission fluid/filter and cleaned suction screen/magnet in May of this year at 277 hrs. I've been mowing all summer and watering trees with no issues (without loader frame being mounted) and now have about 330 hrs. I finally had use for the loader a few weeks ago so first removed mower deck and mounted the loader. The first time starting the tractor after the loader was mounted I noticed a stream of fluid all over the garage flow so I quickly shut off tractor. Upon examination, I noticed the hydraulic filter seal had blown. I cleaned up the mess, removed filter, put on a new one, filled fluid, and restarted tractor. Let tractor run for several minutes as I exercised the hydraulics (loader). No leaks, good to go. Shut off tractor to eat lunch. An hour or so later I restarted tractor and immediately started seeing fluid all over floor. Same exercise....clean up mess, replace filter, refill fluid...this time questioning did I tighten the filter enough. Pulled out book and specs say tighten 1/2 - 3/4 turn after gasket contract...good to go (did you know that the filter box indicates 1 full turn?). Started tractor and again, no fluid leaks. Let tractor sit again for a while. Later came back to start and again was blowing fluid all over floor. Again, questioning if I overtightened the filter I went to my local dealer to pick up additional filters and fluid....same results. This time I bagged my filter so I wouldn't drop fluid all over floor and winched tractor onto my trailer and took to dealer.


At dealer, I showed pictures of filter as it was on the tractor showing bulging filter. There the service manager accused me of overtightening the filter...saying that is the only way that issue could happen. I told him that wasn't the case...that I've been changing fluids/filters longer than he's been alive. Left my tractor and the next day they were able to get mine in the shop. They replaced the filter and tested pressures in several different locations (not sure where all...but there is a place under the seat behind the panel by your boot heal) that was also tested. All tested within specs. So, after $500 of parts, fluid, and testing labor, they found no issue. I loaded the tractor and placed in my garage. Two days later it's time to mow. Removed loader and mounted mower and mowed for 2 hours...no issue. Parked tractor in front of garage on newly poured concrete and went into house to eat lunch. About an hour later I go back outside to remove the deck and remount the loader....and upon starting I'm blowing fluid again. Pissed my off....all over my new concrete. Loaded tractor and back to dealer...told service manager that it was their mechanic that put this filter on...and that he owed me an apology for accusing me of overtightening. He never said a word...but had someone else get the mechanic that did the original work.

The mechanic apologized and couldn't understand what had happened. He was going to open a Dtac(?) with John Deere to help solve this problem. Well, that was this past Friday and I've not heard a thing.

So, over the past 2 weeks, I've blown gaskets on a total of 4 filters. In each case, when the filters blow, it is immediate upon start up. I'm getting no drips on the floor between the prior shutdown and the startup that blows the filter. I have not pulled the oil suction screen/magnet again to see what this looks like.

I plan to stop by the dealer today to see what progress, if any, that they've made. Anyone have any ideas/thoughts that I can bring to them?
 

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There was someone else on here not long ago that was having a similar problem. Everyone was assuming he didn't remove the old gasket when he installed the new filter but he insisted that wasn't the case. I just spent some time doing searches and have been unable to locate that old thread (which is why using key words are so important). I don't recall if the OP ever got back to us with the final resolution.

Hopefully someone else who remembers that other thread will chime in.
 
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Is there any possible chance at all that the original filter seal is stuck to the filter head? I had this happen on an engine oil filter once and lo and behold, the original gasket was stuck on the filter head, barely visible.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
I've seen 2 other threads that are similar...but none indicated blowing seal at startup. If moderator feels that the issues are the same, feel free to move as needed.

There is no chance that prior seals are/were still in place...that's part of the reason that I've had 4 failures...double checking myself before I pay local dealer to troubleshoot.

I will post findings from dealer...assuming there is a solution. My fear is that they will return with nothing found and they cannot replicate the issue...and sometime when I'm blowing snow at -20 I will blow another seal. :banghead:
 

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There was someone else on here not long ago that was having a similar problem. Everyone was assuming he didn't remove the old gasket when he installed the new filter but he insisted that wasn't the case. I just spent some time doing searches and have been unable to locate that old thread (which is why using key words are so important). I don't recall if the OP ever got back to us with the final resolution.

Hopefully someone else who remembers that other thread will chime in.
1026R hydraulic filter failed 3 times

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I now have a "probable" resolution. I just now talked to the dealer...and they were able to get a failure with their pressure gauges attached. I'm NOT techie when it comes to hydraulics, but what they explained is that there are pressure testing ports located under the seat...behind the lower panel above the floor board. Behind your left foot, as you are sitting on the tractor, there are ports for testing. Here is where they tested over 300 psi at startup...and normal pressure are supposed to be between 90-120 (I think these were the ranges they quoted me). That pointed them to a pressure relief valve (located behind your right heal when sitting on tractor). They removed the pressure relief valve and ordered a new one. The valve they took our was in 2 pieces...the valve they ordered came in as one piece...good chance this is the problem. :bigthumb:

They plan to keep the tractor overnight and want to test at startup in the morning. Been rainy the last couple days here...and for the next couple...so in no hurry...test away.

I'll keep my fingers crossed that this is resolved.

Hope this helps others out there that may be having similar issues.

Best of luck.
 

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Thank you for updating us.
 

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I now have a "probable" resolution. I just now talked to the dealer...and they were able to get a failure with their pressure gauges attached. I'm NOT techie when it comes to hydraulics, but what they explained is that there are pressure testing ports located under the seat...behind the lower panel above the floor board. Behind your left foot, as you are sitting on the tractor, there are ports for testing. Here is where they tested over 300 psi at startup...and normal pressure are supposed to be between 90-120 (I think these were the ranges they quoted me). That pointed them to a pressure relief valve (located behind your right heal when sitting on tractor). They removed the pressure relief valve and ordered a new one. The valve they took our was in 2 pieces...the valve they ordered came in as one piece...good chance this is the problem. :bigthumb:

They plan to keep the tractor overnight and want to test at startup in the morning. Been rainy the last couple days here...and for the next couple...so in no hurry...test away.

I'll keep my fingers crossed that this is resolved.

Hope this helps others out there that may be having similar issues.

Best of luck.
Just for future reference for other readers, when you pick your machine up (or they deliver it back to you!) could you track down the part numbers for the old and new valves and post them here? It might save others a lot of digging if you could!
 

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I'm thinking there is no new part number, the old valve had just come apart?
Happy to see that this validates the troubleshooting measures some folks went through in the linked thread where there was never a resolution posted. Shout out to Ray in PA for attaching schematics and procedures there.:hi:
 

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I'm thinking there is no new part number, the old valve had just come apart?
Happy to see that this validates the troubleshooting measures some folks went through in the linked thread where there was never a resolution posted. Shout out to Ray in PA for attaching schematics and procedures there.:hi:
Correct, only one pressure relieve valve although there has been a revision to the part number.

Part Number:
LVA803641 (was LVA802776)
Part Price:69.50 USD
On Hand:
0 Check Other Stores
Description:Pressure Relief Valve - PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE, RELIEF ASSY,
Package Quantity:1



21LVA803641Pressure Relief Valve1SUB FOR LVA802776
 

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:dunno:i wonder if this valve could cause the axle seals to blow out? reason i'm asking is my cousin's 2018-1025r just last night blew his out-don't know if both went or not--but he didn't know they was leaking as he mows up at my aunts place(just the yard) and when he went to mow-the pto switch broke. so he parked it a bit, to talk to my aunt. then he came back down here(ahh-maybe a quarter of mile) it wouldn't even make it up his driveway-thats when he seen all the oil on mower deck.

he hauled it in this morning--so waiting to see what he made out- if the seals blows again---then maybe this part is bad then.

:dunno:
 

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:dunno:i wonder if this valve could cause the axle seals to blow out? reason i'm asking is my cousin's 2018-1025r just last night blew his out-don't know if both went or not--but he didn't know they was leaking as he mows up at my aunts place(just the yard) and when he went to mow-the pto switch broke. so he parked it a bit, to talk to my aunt. then he came back down here(ahh-maybe a quarter of mile) it wouldn't even make it up his driveway-thats when he seen all the oil on mower deck.

he hauled it in this morning--so waiting to see what he made out- if the seals blows again---then maybe this part is bad then.

:dunno:
Pto seals maybe, but not axle seals.
Edit....rear axle seals could see higher pressure I bet
 

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Thought that I would share a picture of the broken part. The part # on my invoice is LVA803641 Pressure Relief Valve - $69.50.
Thanks for pic and part number. Good to know if i ever have that problem that it's a fairly cheap part to first change out when trouble shooting myself out of warranty.
 

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Pto seals maybe, but not axle seals.
Edit....rear axle seals could see higher pressure I bet
What makes you think the axle seals are subjected to hydraulic pressure? The pressure is created by the charge pump which in turn drives the hydrostatic transmission. After that it is just gears and shafts turning in a bath of lubrication much like a gear tractor.

The axle housing and gear housings are not pressurized,
 

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What makes you think the axle seals are subjected to hydraulic pressure? The pressure is created by the charge pump which in turn drives the hydrostatic transmission. After that it is just gears and shafts turning in a bath of lubrication much like a gear tractor.

The axle housing and gear housings are not pressurized,
:dunno:i would of thought that since everything is enclosed, then there would of been pressure inside the axles?:unknown:

so i guess i learned something new again today. not a bad thing to learn-right. i seen my cousin made it home-but left right away. so i didn't get to talk to him, but he did come home with a empty trailer. so they must be gonna work on it, at least.:dunno:
 

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:dunno:i would of thought that since everything is enclosed, then there would of been pressure inside the axles?:unknown:

so i guess i learned something new again today. not a bad thing to learn-right. i seen my cousin made it home-but left right away. so i didn't get to talk to him, but he did come home with a empty trailer. so they must be gonna work on it, at least.:dunno:
Beyond old age and shaft corrosion, one of the more common reasons for shaft seal failure on a tractor is a stick or some other hard object lodging itself between the seal and axle.

Al
 

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Beyond old age and shaft corrosion, one of the more common reasons for shaft seal failure on a tractor is a stick or some other hard object lodging itself between the seal and axle.

Al
its brand new this summer. i doubt if it has over 50 hrs on it yet. i can't say about a stick, but i doubt that either-as he has pretty much just mowed with it. his loader joy stick has broken too, plus the pto rocker switch just quit working also.

also the strap that goes between the arms to latch the mower deck that broke too. but he figures that came from the deck not quite level, so he welded it himself. something else too-way earlier back in the summer, i watched the tech fix it in his driveway that day. something to do with the height of mower deck.:dunno:

i have over 1,100 hrs on my 2520-and i've in some mean fields brush hogging, and lucky then my axle seals are a-ok for now. probably gonna start to leak now-since i just jinxed myself:banghead:
 

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I am a little late to this thread, been busy.

I know this has been discussed prior on this forum but I will repeat it here.

The spin on hydraulic filter, filters the oil prior to it entering the tractor propel pump/motor. So, it is what is called a high pressure filter, albeit this pressure should be 76 to 116 PSI.

This filter does not directly filter the oil that feeds the FEL or 3 point and is not affected by the FEL or 3 point.

If this spin on filter blows gaskets, the first thing to do is make sure it is tight. If your filter blows the gasket and you are sure the filter is tight, it is seeing too much pressure which means the charge pressure relief is most likely the problem.
 

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