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Deere 1025r, 60D mower, Frontier BB2048, Frontier RC2048, Titan Attachments Pallet Fork
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got a call about my 20 month old 1025R at the dealership for annual maintenance. Annual maintenance required to maintain the 10 year warranty offered by my local Tri-Green dealer.

I'm told the backside of the radiator is clogged up with grass & weed debris; not the front side where you clean the screen, the backside. As a result the engine has been running extremely hot, oil is severely degraded, possible engine damage unless the radiator is replaced. Dealer says grass debris too caked into the radiator to remove effectively. Covered under warranty? NO. Dealer says it's a common problem with these smaller tractors. They run close to the ground and debris gets sucked up from underneath. I'm advised to buy an air compressor and an air comb to clean the radiator front and back after each use. Not just the screen, both backside and front side of radiator.

I'm on 5 acres. During the growing season I bush hog 2 acres monthly and mow 3 acres weekly. Dealer mechanic thinks these low to the ground subcompacts are undersized for bush hogging. So now I need to buy up to a larger tractor or pay up to repair what I was sold less than two year ago. Very disappointed in Deere and its dealer. I'll be going to the dealer to raise hell tomorrow for whatever that's worth.

Heads up to anyone considering buying a 1025R and to those that have them.
 

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So you are saying the the side of the radiator that the air flows out of is caked with grass?
I do not believe this is possible. did you go look at it or just taking their word for it?
 

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Lol....BS

You're the first that I can recall ever reporting this problem. Grass and dirt, etc getting sucked up from underneath and clogging the back of the radiator? Crock of horse hockey. If the engine fan belt is properly tensioned, the blade creates SO much air movement back towards the motor, there's literally no way dirt and grass is going to be able to touch the radiator, let alone clog it up. Any clogging of the radiator would have to be sucked in the front.

As Chris mentioned, are you just taking the dealers word?
 

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Poppy Cock, i would insist on seeing the radiator before shelling out those kind of bucks. They might be collecting on the ten year warranty up front. When my 1026R gets hot from the front screen clogging,it posts a warning on the instrument cluster and then shuts down if I ignore it. I can restart and run at idle after cleaning the screen and when cool will go back to work with no issues. I do run a 48" brush cutter with no issues. On both of my tractors, 445 and 1026R, I will run the engine and spray the radiator down with as much water as I can force from the hose, volume, not pressure. I have had the 445 since new in 1994 and have overheated it at least once a year and the water corrects that problem with no issue. Still the original radiator also. The 1026R was also new and I purchased it new in 2013.
 

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Deere 1025r, 60D mower, Frontier BB2048, Frontier RC2048, Titan Attachments Pallet Fork
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'll be going to the dealer tomorrow. In the meantime, the dealer sent me these photos of the clogged radiator backside and degraded oil.
Hood Automotive lighting Water Grille Automotive design
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Hood Automotive lighting Water Grille Automotive design
Dishware Cookware and bakeware Cuisine Automotive tire Gas
 

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Any radiator shop should be able to clean that. If nothing else, you could get a large pan and submerge it in an Aluminum safe cleaner and running the solution threw front to back and back to front. As for the Oil, you could get it tested at Blackstone labs to see what the wear metals and other contaminants are in the oil. I do this for my Motor Home, I don't do it for my tractor as it is cheaper to just change the oil as needed.
 

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That actually looks more like moss growing in the radiator.
 

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Some one is full of s
Don't lay out 1400.00

I've changed the oil on my 1025 about every 100-150 hrs sometimes less. Oil is always black.

I thought that was the normal color for a diesel when changing the oil and filter
 

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Most of these small tractors lock out the PTO at the first sign of engine overheating. You can't continue mowing if the tractor is overheating because the tractor won't let you.

No way I'd replace the radiator before at least couple cleaning attempts had failed.
 

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As a result the engine has been running extremely hot, oil is severely degraded, possible engine damage unless the radiator is replaced.
Re-reading this, I guess the question I'd have for you would be "has the engine been running hot?"

I mean, surely you've been watching the temp gauge as you've been bush-hogging, etc..right? Has it been running hot? Or is that just an assumption that the dealer is making based on their assessment of the state of the radiator?
 

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My experience only. My 6 year old 1025R started running hot this past summer. I use a leaf blower after every mowing to clean the radiator, but obviously I had not been doing a good job on the back side. Since I had so far done every single service and repair I removed the side panels to get a better view. The radiator back side was almost a solid mass of dried crud - grass, dirt, seeds, and lord knows what else. Used a water hose with shower nozzle to soak, soak, soak, keeping it wet as chunks started dropping off. Occasionally I sprayed gently from the front trying to avoid damaging the fins.

It took me a couple of hours, but finally it was clean all the way through and the overheating stopped. I left the side panels unbolted for easy removal and now I try my best to keep it blown out from the rear.

So my take is that the design and cramped quarters under the hood make it hard to keep the radiator clean. You can blame Deere for packing things in so tightly, or you can blame yourself for not making enough of an effort to maintain airflow. In my case I blame myself.

For a couple of hours labor the dealership could clean the radiator fins, but where’s their profit in that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
This tractor has less than 175 hours on it. Yes, I watch the temp gauge and it is not running hot. Running in the middle of the gauge range. The one time it did run hot it was because of a clogged screen. Temp returned to normal after I cleaned the screen. The dealer tech is telling me the oil has a "film on it". All of this sounds like BS. I'll be at the Tri Green dealership tomorrow morning. I'll update after I have words with the dealer and if necessary directly with Deere.
 

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This is pure BS. Ever been to Alaska?? If not then bend over, they're driving.

Have the oil changed and make sure they use oil rated for use in a diesel engine. Then shine a flashlight through the front of the radiator. I don't see much dirt in the pictures, and certainly not enough to cause the engine to overheat. Get the manager and sales staff involved and raise hell. The tech is obviously an idiot, and the bubbles I see on the top of the oil could be from crap already in the catch pan, or cause by the oil dropping into the catch pan. Regardless, it's under warranty and covered by Deere. To me this sounds like a scam. And if the tech opens his mouth put a film on his ass with your foot.
 

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Take your phone or whatever and take a ton of pics...if nothing else just to make them nervous.

My tractor is 30+ years old.....similar sized....mow grass/thistles as high as the rops at times.

Story screams bs
 

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Just got a call about my 20 month old 1025R at the dealership for annual maintenance. Annual maintenance required to maintain the 10 year warranty offered by my local Tri-Green dealer.
Thus the reason I despise "lifetime free inspection" or "new tires for life" and that kind of bull crap.

Nothing more than fishing expeditions for "value-added" unnecessary services that are supposedly needed.

These kind of things do a disservice not just to the brand but to the dealership.

And they'll only get worse when competition is merged or bought out of existence.
 
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