[BOBL]

-.-. --.- W9GFO

While a shade tree mechanic may be a local possibility the OP will need to be careful that the STM doesn't leave tracks endangering the mfg. warranty.

N1BRH

 

[BOBL]

I subscribe to the notion that if you think you'll need some "extended warranty" to cover you, then why on earth did you buy the product in the first place? It is a laughable waste of money most of the time UNLESS you actually buy a product with quality problems. (but then why would you do that?) I haven't seen any real evidence of that being the case with 1 series tractors. So I'm inclined to thumb my nose at any "extended warranty", engage in common sense, take care of my equipment, and not worry about it.

Ask for the tractor back, clean the radiator yourself (or just buy a new radiator and replace it) and get on with life. Not even worth the mental cycles to deal with something this ridiculous. Life is too short.

Best,

Sorry Ritz, but I can't agree with your statement above. I recently extended my full coverage warranty for a period of 4 years. The cost was less than $350 per year, which I find to be a more than reasonable cost for the factory warranty extension backed by Deere. True be told I'll be almost 75 when the warranty expires, and the additional warranty years will probably outlast me. The benefits include bumper to bumper adding to the first two (2) years, totaling six (6) years. Also included is pickup and return of the tractor, free diagnostics, etc.., and all out of someone else's pocket. I had six figure income and now I don't. This is the best option for me at my age.

 

[Ritz]

Sorry Ritz, but I can't agree with your statement above. I recently extended my full coverage warranty for a period of 4 years. The cost was less than $350 per year, which I find to be a more than reasonable cost for the factory warranty extension backed by Deere. True be told I'll be almost 75 when the warranty expires, and the additional warranty years will probably outlast me. The benefits include bumper to bumper adding to the first two (2) years, totaling six (6) years. Also included is pickup and return of the tractor, free diagnostics, etc.., and all out of someone else's pocket. I had six figure income and now I don't. This is the best option for me at my age.

We can agree to disagree. You're paying for it, just not all at once.

And as we've seen above, an unscrupulous dealer can use it as a lever to create additional work that is NOT covered.

Best,

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

And as we've seen above, an unscrupulous dealer can use it as a lever to create additional work that is NOT covered.

The Deere extended warranty that Bob has is NOT the same as the dealer warranty that the OP has. The Deere warranty is legit and covers everything that the regular warranty does and includes transportation to/from the dealer. Regular maintenance does not need to be done by the dealer to keep the warranty in force.

 

[BOBL]

We can agree to disagree. You're paying for it, just not all at once.

And as we've seen above, an unscrupulous dealer can use it as a lever to create additional work that is NOT covered.

Best,

As stated by Mark above it's a John Deere warranty. The dealer can create all the extra work they wany. It's covered by John Deere and the extended FACTORY bumper to bumper warranty. $1400? Chump change in the scheme of life. Also, because the warranty can be transferred to any buyer within the term of the warranty I'll recover some of the cost should I sell the tractor.

 

[Ritz]

As stated by Mark above it's a John Deere warranty. The dealer can create all the extra work they wany. It's covered by John Deere and the extended FACTORY bumper to bumper warranty. $1400? Chump change in the scheme of life. Also, because the warranty can be transferred to any buyer within the term of the warranty I'll recover some of the cost should I sell the tractor.

Ahh...I didn't realize we were talking about two different types of warranty. Good to know!

Best,

 

[DMagers]

I am wondering about the outcome of this goat rope. Guess it has only been 5 days and we are winding up a 3 day week end. Wow who knows where that oil pan came from? I have never seen a stealer worth his salt that did not have a hoist for the little buggers and one of those roll around bulk oil catchers - guess there are exceptions. Lets do what machinery man advised and "get it on".

 

[Kbar]

Late to the party but That radiator doesn’t look like it needs replacing. I’d tell him to save that oil which he probably hasn’t and have it tested. The problem with a lot of shops is managers not looking for efficient solutions. Some people would rather get a new radiator that spend a little time seeing if it can be cleaned. I’ve had dozers with mud caked to them and overheating from regular work. The fan sucks dirt into the radiator towards the engine on the 1025R and has nothing to do with low ground clearance. All ground engaging machines kick up dust and debris that gets sucked in. Regular cleaning suffices but anything with moisture will stick to and adhere itself to the radiator due to the heat. Cleaning after every brush hog task is best but as Clyde mentioned a little soaking for an hr then rinse should do the trick.

 

[Rule292]

Late to the party but That radiator doesn’t look like it needs replacing. I’d tell him to save that oil which he probably hasn’t and have it tested. The problem with a lot of shops is managers not looking for efficient solutions. Some people would rather get a new radiator that spend a little time seeing if it can be cleaned. I’ve had dozers with mud caked to them and overheating from regular work. The fan sucks dirt into the radiator towards the engine on the 1025R and has nothing to do with low ground clearance. All ground engaging machines kick up dust and debris that gets sucked in. Regular cleaning suffices but anything with moisture will stick to and adhere itself to the radiator due to the heat. Cleaning after every brush hog task is best but as Clyde mentioned a little soaking for an hr then rinse should do the trick.

Looks like a few hours shop time for at worst an R&R pull and cleaning and coolant replacement.

I wonder how many AG customers would stay with that dealer if it pulled this kind of shenanigans with them?

 

[SeniorSitizen]

Years since new doesn't mean too much . During wheat harvest it was common to clean the radiator fins of Chaf at least 4 times / day and clean the oil bath air cleaner twice / day .

 

[MisterJoe]

Just got a call about my 20 month old 1025R at the dealership for annual maintenance. Annual maintenance required to maintain the 10 year warranty offered by my local Tri-Green dealer.

I'm told the backside of the radiator is clogged up with grass & weed debris; not the front side where you clean the screen, the backside. As a result the engine has been running extremely hot, oil is severely degraded, possible engine damage unless the radiator is replaced. Dealer says grass debris too caked into the radiator to remove effectively. Covered under warranty? NO. Dealer says it's a common problem with these smaller tractors. They run close to the ground and debris gets sucked up from underneath. I'm advised to buy an air compressor and an air comb to clean the radiator front and back after each use. Not just the screen, both backside and front side of radiator.

I'm on 5 acres. During the growing season I bush hog 2 acres monthly and mow 3 acres weekly. Dealer mechanic thinks these low to the ground subcompacts are undersized for bush hogging. So now I need to buy up to a larger tractor or pay up to repair what I was sold less than two year ago. Very disappointed in Deere and its dealer. I'll be going to the dealer to raise hell tomorrow for whatever that's worth.

Heads up to anyone considering buying a 1025R and to those that have them.

Can relate to your problem,, Had an 855 that was overheating and not working about 5yrs old. Had an independent diesel mechanic take a look. Told me transmission fluid needed changed and a filter. He did that No improvement. He looked over the whole cooling system and found so much grass and debris clogging the bottom of the radiator. Not visible unless you crawled under the tractor. Cleaned it out and told me to blow it out after each mowing use. I mow about 13ac. I have blown it out every time and never had another problem I sold the tractor at 18yrs. to my neighbor and 6 yrs later it is still going strong just not mine anymore

 

[SeniorSitizen]

Just got a call about my 20 month old 1025R at the dealership for annual maintenance. Annual maintenance required to maintain the 10 year warranty offered by my local Tri-Green dealer.

I'm told the backside of the radiator is clogged up with grass & weed debris; not the front side where you clean the screen, the backside. As a result the engine has been running extremely hot, oil is severely degraded, possible engine damage unless the radiator is replaced. Dealer says grass debris too caked into the radiator to remove effectively. Covered under warranty? NO. Dealer says it's a common problem with these smaller tractors. They run close to the ground and debris gets sucked up from underneath. I'm advised to buy an air compressor and an air comb to clean the radiator front and back after each use. Not just the screen, both backside and front side of radiator.

I'm on 5 acres. During the growing season I bush hog 2 acres monthly and mow 3 acres weekly. Dealer mechanic thinks these low to the ground subcompacts are undersized for bush hogging. So now I need to buy up to a larger tractor or pay up to repair what I was sold less than two year ago. Very disappointed in Deere and its dealer. I'll be going to the dealer to raise hell tomorrow for whatever that's worth.

Heads up to anyone considering buying a 1025R and to those that have them.

Maybe J D installed a reverse fan blade on yours .

 

[lakenseagt]

Just got a call about my 20 month old 1025R at the dealership for annual maintenance. Annual maintenance required to maintain the 10 year warranty offered by my local Tri-Green dealer.

I'm told the backside of the radiator is clogged up with grass & weed debris; not the front side where you clean the screen, the backside. As a result the engine has been running extremely hot, oil is severely degraded, possible engine damage unless the radiator is replaced.

A few words on what happens to engine oil. As mentioned, engine oil in a diesel turns black with use regardless of the type of injection system. If you put a "low quality oil" in an engine it would turn black very quickly. High quality oil may consist of up to 30% additives. Antioxidant additives are critical to delay the oxidation process that ends up making the oil acidic--which promotes varnish/deposits/wear. Once the antioxidants are used up, the detergent additives continue to delay the acidic process. Once both of those additives are used up, your oil will be acidic and will be leaving a varnish on engine components. Also as these additives are used up, the oil will become darker and darker. The goal of an oil change is to get the old oil out before the antioxidants and detergents are used up. The hotter an engine runs and the longer it runs at the high temps, the quicker the additives are depleted. In most cases, manufacturer oil change recommendations are conservative enough that oil gets changed before the additives are depleted. Generally, only running the engine at extreme temperature or using a bargain oil with a lower level of additives would cause the additives to be depleted before manufacturer's recommended oil change interval. For some tractors, Deere doubles the hours between oil change if you use their oil. I'm assuming it has a high level of critical additives. Other highly respected full synthetic diesel engine oils may have the same level of additives.

Unless your temperature gauge is bad, it is the best indicator of whether you ran the engine too hot. You could also send a sample of oil out for analysis to see if you have any abnormal wear in the engine. I've used Blackstone Labs in the past--cost if reasonable. You can also request a TBN test which will give you some idea of the amount of the antioxidant/detergent additives left to combat the tendency for oil to become acidic. TBN values are best compared with those from a fresh oil sample.

To me looks like annual maintenance should include a thorough radiator cleaning, but the replacement seems highly suspect to me. Maybe the dealer put contaminated or cheap oil in your tractor the last time. . .

 

[Toehead]

Good post! Just an addition: In a diesel, it's more than just additive depletion that causes the oil to darken. The primary cause is very small soot particles that are produced at a much higher rate in diesel vs. gas.