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So I wanted to share my experiences with Hot Shots Diesel Extreme fuel additive because the product truly delivered. I purchased a used 1025r with 600 hrs on it a few months back. It started very rough and smoked a lot for the first 10 seconds or so. I was not pleased. I used PowerService fuel additive and premium non-bio diesel and it still started rough. I saw the Diesel Extreme at Menards and thought what the hell I'll give it a shot. I am only half a tank through using the diesel extreme and it starts up quick and clean, the stuterring and smoking has been eliminated. I will post a video later today of the start-up. You truly would not believe this is a 1025r when it starts. I dosed the diesel extreme at 4 oz in 5 gallons, thats double the recommended. And you are only supposed to use this product every 6 months. Time will tell if it truly cleaned the injectors or its just starting better because of the cetane boost. Nonetheless I am impressed. If your tractor is starting real rough I highly recommend.
 

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So I wanted to share my experiences with Hot Shots Diesel Extreme fuel additive because the product truly delivered. I purchased a used 1025r with 600 hrs on it a few months back. It started very rough and smoked a lot for the first 10 seconds or so. I was not pleased. I used PowerService fuel additive and premium non-bio diesel and it still started rough. I saw the Diesel Extreme at Menards and thought what the hell I'll give it a shot. I am only half a tank through using the diesel extreme and it starts up quick and clean, the stuterring and smoking has been eliminated. I will post a video later today of the start-up. You truly would not believe this is a 1025r when it starts. I dosed the diesel extreme at 4 oz in 5 gallons, thats double the recommended. And you are only supposed to use this product every 6 months. Time will tell if it truly cleaned the injectors or its just starting better because of the cetane boost. Nonetheless I am impressed. If your tractor is starting real rough I highly recommend.
Do you have a before and after video? I thought that the Hot Shot stuff was for clearing gelled filters.
 

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I use this same product in conjunction with other diesel treatment products in every gallon of diesel I burn. I always treat my fuel, year around with the Howe's Diesel Fuel Treatment.

About every 50 hours, I run 2 jugs (12 gallons) of diesel fuel treated with the Hot Shot product through the tractor and it not only keeps it running MUCH smoother, it cuts way down on the diesel smoke not only at start up, but also when running it hard (Plowing snow, PTO operation for RC2048 rear mowing, etc). Since the 1025r tractor burns about 1 gallon of diesel fuel per hour, for 12 hours out of every 50 hours, I am running the Hot Shot product through the tractor.

We had weather this winter where the high temp was -22 degrees. When I would pour the diesel fuel from the jug, it was much thicker than normal as one would expect because of the extreme cold. But I never had any fuel gelling or filter freezing issues.

Do not let your Diesel Fuel Treatment Products be exposed to Freezing Temps
It's extremely important to NOT let the diesel fuel treatments be subjected to below freezing temps before they are blended with diesel fuel as ironically, those additives which prevent diesel fuel filter freezing will actually freeze in their non blended state before mixed with diesel fuel and will thicken at above freezing temps. It's true, the lower the filter freezing point of the product once blended with diesel fuel, the higher the temps above freezing at which the product will thicken. As an example, the product which will reduce your filter freezing temps to -15 degrees, will thicken and not blend with diesel fuel properly at 36 degrees Fahrenheit.

Diesel fuel additives are best kept above freezing temps and blended into fuel in above freezing conditions. This means, add them to the diesel fuel jugs in the fall and you are good to go. If you are resupplying the fuel during the cold months, make sure to properly blend the product and carefully follow the directions. Otherwise, the product could fail to protect your fuel as designed.

Also, add the proper amount to your fuel tank when your tractor is running as the tractor has a fuel return line to the fuel tank which returns warmer diesel fuel back to the tank when the machine is running. Never dump the additives into the tractor fuel tank when the tractor is cold and isn't running and the temps are extremely cold. Instead, add them to the tank when the machine is running and allow them to be properly circulated through the fuel system and returned back to the tank warmer from the engine heat and running the fuel lines under the tractor hood.

I used the infrared temp gun to measure the diesel temps this winter, just out of curiosity to see how much warmer the fuel was in the tank after running the tractor for an hour. I don't recall the exact numbers but in general, the air temps outside were in the teens, the fuel in the tank was in the low 40's in temperature after running the tractor for 20 minutes or more according to the infrared gun.

Critical Information which all Diesel Fuel Users should know and Understand
There are some really good fuel products out there for diesel fuel enhancement. It's important that those who run diesel machinery know the cetane of the diesel fuel they are purchasing. This information often can be found on the fuel distributors website, the company who supplies the retail station.

Also, it's crucial that those who run diesel equipment understand and KNOW the difference between whether a product is a Emulsiier or a De-Emulsifier when it comes to dealing with moisture in diesel fuel, or what's often called "water in suspense".

Important Information about Bio-Diesel Fuel
Incidentally, Bio-Diesel by design has as much as 10 times the amount of natural moisture since it is created from grains and animal fat and other such products. Not only does bio-Diesel have more moisture, it's also lower in cetane. Cetane in diesel is the amount of energy which the fuel can produce during the engine combustion process. In simple terms, the Higher the cetane in diesel fuel, is akin to the higher octane in gasoline. Avoid burning Bio-Diesel fuel whenever you have a choice. Bio-Diesel should be cheaper than Petro Diesel as it produces less power, requires more fuel to achieve the same engine output.

Diesel Fuel Labeling and Disclosure
When you see diesel fuel listed as B20, that means that 20% of the diesel fuel content in that pump is Bio-Diesel. Accordingly, a fuel labeled B-100 would be 100% Bio-Diesel. Under Federal Law, all blends of Bio-Diesel greater than 10% must be labeled on the distribution pump. They can blend 10% of the diesel fuel with Bio-Diesel and sell it as "Diesel Fuel", so it's very wise to research the actual content on the diesel fuel you burn so you know its composition, its source and cetane levels.


The GOOD, the Bad and Ugly
Emulsifiers bind the water in the diesel fuel to the fuel and burn it through the combustion chamber. Most engine manufacturers do NOT suggest that emulsifiers be used in diesel fuel. There are numerous products which pitch the "benefits" of running water through the combustion chambers to dispose of it. Personally, I think that is a terrible idea. Water is very course and will actually destroy injectors and wear our injector pumps. It can also cause damage to the cylinder walls and the diesel engine by design ends up with the motor oil being negatively impacted by the emulsifer products.

De-Emulsifiers manually separate the water (moisture) from the fuel and it has to be either drained off the fuel, filtered out of the fuel or a combination of these processes. This prevents the water from passing through the injector pump, the injectors, the cylinder and the exhaust system. Water is best NOT introduced to the diesel engine under any circumstances.....

A simple way to remember the difference is Emulsifiers (Easy) are considered "Hands Off" solutions where a De-Emulsifier (Drain) require action be taken (Drain the water off) by filtering the water and draining it from the fuel separator, the fuel filters or from the tank as water will sink to the bottom of the tank.

Emulsifiers are actually harmful if used in amounts above the manufactures specific blending ratios. Using too much of an emulsifier prevents the system from dealing with the water in the system. It makes filtering out the water more difficult and it actually causes the diesel fuel and water to remain "blended" instead of separating the water, which is always heavier than the diesel fuel. That's why the fuel separator on the side of the diesel engines has the ring which floats when there is water in the system, because the water will sink to the bottom when mixed with diesel fuel. But the more one blends in the emulsifiers, the less the water truly separates and the more it is forced to be burned by the engine.

De-Emulsifiers are NOT harmful if used in amounts or blending ratios above the manufacturers recommendations. Won't hurt a thing, just makes sure the water is fully separated from the fuel.

Obviously, blending a emulsifier and a De-emulsifier product in fuel is a very bad idea........and should always be avoided.

One of the most common emulsifier products is the Emergency 911 fuel Additive. It comes in the bright red fuel bottle with the 911 boldly on the front. The instructions tell you to remove the fuel filter and fill it 1/2 full with the Emergency 911 product and then they have specific instructions about how much of the product should be added to the fuel cell. Then the water is burned with the fuel to "solve" that problem and likely create other problems in the process.......This is an emulsifier and it binds the water to the fuel so the engine will burn it. Not good in the view of those of us who feel water is best drunk when thirsty and not burned in diesel fuel.......

Stiction / Friction and Elimination......
The Hot Shot Products also have what they call a "Stiction Reducer" or "Stiction Eliminator". Stiction is a term used to describe "resistance" between objects. Stiction is the "friction" which prevents engine components from moving more freely with one another. So by being a "Stiction Reducer" or a "Stiction eliminator", the product is claiming to result in less operational friction and easier component movements with one another. To provide a comparison which most should understand, Think of KY Jelly as a "stiction eliminator..." or at least a stiction reducer as you wouldn't want to entirely eliminate that stiction......:laugh::lol:

I think I will end with that point........

Bottom line, know your diesel fuel and diesel fuel products. Select quality products and use them regularly and your diesel engine will smoke less, run smoother and be much happier and who knows, you could end up with less "stiction".....:laugh::lol::thumbup1gif:
 

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They start beautiful in anything above 55 degrees. Mine started like crap since brand new. At least under 55 degrees. No nothing built up in 10 hours.
Stiction is a term used for high pressure actuated injectors, that produce the injection pulse, such as in the 03 to 07 Powerstroke engine. Has nothing to do with our old school IDI. Might clean the injector, but that is it.
The only thing that solved my issue, was a replacement instrument cluster from a 2018 vintage, that has the new glow plug sequence, that keeps the glows lit 2 minutes after start.
Treatment is important, but for the 2013 to 2017 1025R, it ain't solving the starting issues.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

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I personally am not a fan of additives except to help with anti gelling, and I wonder how good that stuff works. I was running Howe’s a couple of years ago and my fuel filter gelled up badly. Some of that problem is probably bio diesel. Looked like thick hand lotion in the fuel filter bowl of my Kubota. Keep in mind if there was a magic additive the refinery’s could add it for pennies for a thousand gallons.
 
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