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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2016 1025r. I mowed the other night and everything was great. When I was done mowing, I parked it for an hour or two before going out to put it in the barn. I went to start it and it turned over quickly and then died. By died, I mean nothing works, no head or fender lights, no dash lights, no clicking, no nothing.

First thing I did was put a multimeter on the battery, it read 12.9 volts. Strange, the battery is charged but the lights don't work. The lights have always come on with the ignition switch off. Second thing I did was tried to open the MCS 20 bagger that is wired directly to the battery. Nothing.

I am baffled. Is it possible the battery looks good on the multimeter and tested good at Tractor Supply but is bad? Not sure what to make of it. I did some research here, but it seems in the case of other similar issues, the lights would work or the tractor would click or do something. Mine does nothing like it does not even have a battery installed. Bizzarro...

Any thoughts? Thank you in advance.
 

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1025r with Mauser cab.
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2016 1025r. I mowed the other night and everything was great. When I was done mowing, I parked it for an hour or two before going out to put it in the barn. I went to start it and it turned over quickly and then died. By died, I mean nothing works, no head or fender lights, no dash lights, no clicking, no nothing.

First thing I did was put a multimeter on the battery, it read 12.9 volts. Strange, the battery is charged but the lights don't work. The lights have always come on with the ignition switch off. Second thing I did was tried to open the MCS 20 bagger that is wired directly to the battery. Nothing.

I am baffled. Is it possible the battery looks good on the multimeter and tested good at Tractor Supply but is bad? Not sure what to make of it. I did some research here, but it seems in the case of other similar issues, the lights would work or the tractor would click or do something. Mine does nothing like it does not even have a battery installed. Bizzarro...

Any thoughts? Thank you in advance.
Did tractor supply load test the battery? How old is the battery, any idea? If its the original, its very likely the culprit, even if it is 3+ years old, its suspect. But the only test of the battery which will tell us anything about battery strength is the load test........

Frequently, batteries would show 12+ volts on a voltmeter but lack the amperage to start the tractor or even operate basic functions.

I would also suspect perhaps the ground cable or positive battery cable has become loose or damaged. I would start with the ground cable and check the cable as well as the ground quality at the frame. Same with the positive cable at the starter.

After that, its moving into relays, switches, etc if the battery load tests well and the cables are in proper repair and function.

This does sound very typical of the "sudden death" syndrome for batteries, but testing is required..........lead acid Batteries have lead plates inside them which are the source of generating and storing electrical power. These plates are vertical and fairly fragile as they are made of lead. Once a plate fractures and it touches another plate, its usually lights out for the battery function.

Also, the alternator can support the running operation of the tractor with its output, but its the battery which starts the machine. That's why your explanation of having used the machine and it was fine and then when you try and start it, you find its dead is so common.........
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you for the response. It is the original battery. When I get home from work I am going to try and jump start it with my truck to see if it brings anything to life. Stay tuned...

If that does nothing, I start following leads with the multimeter.
 

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I'm going to go with starter relay.... keep us posted.
 
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2020 1025R, 120R, 54D
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Basics first. Clean terminals, check grounds, check fuses. Battery needs to be properly load tested... 12.9 volts means nothing if it can't provide proper amperage.
 

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I did check fuses and reconnected battery terminals. Still nothing. I am guessing the battery has a bad case of "sudden death syndrome".
All cases of "sudden death syndrome" are bad.......and fatal.....Your battery had a long full life.....Original battery, that's impressive. My OEM didn't make it 18 months before I replaced it.

I STRONGLY suggest adding a battery tender / maintainer leads when you change batteries as its tight down in there and you want to make the most of your time in the battery pit. Also watch your forearms as the oil cooler and headlight bolts are wicked on human skin.

I ran the battery tender leads out through the side of the grill so I can plug my tractor in each time its parked, and I do. I am impressed I have yet to drive off with the battery tender attached, but now that I said that, just watch...............

Seriously, the battery maintainer will help keep the battery at full charge when the tractor isn't in use and that can extend the useful life of a battery significantly, plus avoid having to jump it, etc. As cold weather hits and even hot weather above 85 F discharges the battery and the maintainer helps keep it at 100%..........

Also watch the CCA of replacement alternatives because if you store your tractor where its not heated and use it in the winter, you will want all of the CCA's to heat the glow plugs and start the tractor............
 
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I've had my tractor completely die on me while in operation, with no power to anything.

@dixie460 Second guess.... starter switch.... 😀
Because that's what I meant to say lol.
 

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I've had my tractor completely die on me while in operation, with no power to anything.

@dixie460 Second guess.... starter switch.... 😀
Because that's what I meant to say lol.
Since diesel's have no ignition system to require electricity to operate, the system must have lost ground and caused the fuel shut off switch to close as the magnet will pull the plunger closed when power is interrupted, that's the only way to stop the diesel when running, cut off fuel supply.............the alternator should have plenty of output to run the fuel pump and keep the shut off switch open.......
 

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I did check fuses and reconnected battery terminals. Still nothing. I am guessing the battery has a bad case of "sudden death syndrome".
Shameless plug for picking up a cheapie Horror Fraught battery load tester. Ne'er better way to test a battery than with their inexpensive tester which is nothing more than a 100 amp resistance heating element and a meter. Voltage tests in themselves are false positives.

 

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I am no longer participating in the guessing game haha 😆

Cartoon Organism Gesture Yellow Happy


But hey... its bringing out more information to help trouble shoot the problem... so im helping without too much effort 🙂

Hope you figure it out my friend!
 
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If you're going to jump it with your truck, disconnect the tractor battery completely... take it right out of the equation. Good chance your tractor battery is toast. Your symptoms are quite common.
 

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Have you double checked the ignition run power fuse? I'd pop it out and check continuity and if that's good, reseat it and see if you get power back.

Best,
 

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Hi All
I had a similar thing happen. Tractor started fine, I started mowing 2 minutes later I stalled it ( my fault ). I went to restart the engine, nothing I had some unusual things happen on the dash, the battery was reading 12.6 volts but when load checked it dropped to almost nothing. I fitted a new aftermarket battery all is fine, the old battery was 7 years old at least.
Regards John
 

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I’m going with bad battery. When my battery went bad, it tested ok with a multi meter. My tractor started and ran fine with a jumper pack. As soon as the jumper was disconnected the tractor would shut off. I sure thought once started the tractor would run on the alternator like other vehicles I had jump started in the past with dead batteries.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Battery SDS. New battery and it started right up. I’ve never had a battery that showed 12 volts not work.

Blaine’s is the only place that had a N22 battery in stock.

Thanks everyone for the feedback!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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2020 1025R, 120R, 54D
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I’ve never had a battery that showed 12 volts not work.
Voltage means nothing if it can't produce the amps. The starter likely draws 100-200 amps when cranking. People tend to think any reading near 12 volts is sufficient. That's why load testing (putting a significant draw on it) is the only way to determine the health of a battery.
 
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