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4 ft disc is fine. I have iMatch and R4 tires, front weights, and a 4' JD tiller. What can I do with the disc that I can't do with the tiller? Break up an alfalfa field quicker? New guy needs input for 6 acres of flat clay type soil that's currently in alfalfa, but may get watermelons this year.
Thanks.
 

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Any disk that tractor can pull will not do much to clay type soil,,

I was all with you,, until you said clay,,
clay is either too hard if it is dry,, or too slick if it is wet enough to disk

Rent/borrow a bigger tractor,,, :good2:

If you do use the 4 foot disk, and go 3MPH,, (no overlap) and disk only twice,,,
the disking alone will take 10 hours,,,
 

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In my experience a disk has to be REALLY heavy or the soil must already be somewhat broken up. With these little tractors I bought a 4' tiller. It'll break up anything I've thrown at mine and left really nice fluffy soil. If you have an already established garden and you want to run a disk across it to knock down weeds and grass in preparation for planting I could see it being ok. A tiller in my opinion is the way to go. I use mine all the time to improve my yard. Knocking down high spots and breaking up heavy traffic lanes. Works GREAT!


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A disk will compact the soil, not a big deal if your running over ground a couple times. If your having to run back and forth over it countless times trying to break up the ground and incorporate what's on top, it's kinda counter productive in terms of making a seedbed IMO. Dropping the scarifiers to lowest position on a box blade and running it over the ground to break up the soil prior to disking helps but it's another step to take. If I was looking at a 6 acre field and determined to put it all into a crop, I would spray with roundup, wait for it to die down, then till. A tiller will also compact soil but doubtful you will have to run over the ground multiple times with it to get the acreage prepped for watermelons.
 
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4 ft disc is fine. I have iMatch and R4 tires, front weights, and a 4' JD tiller. What can I do with the disc that I can't do with the tiller? Break up an alfalfa field quicker? New guy needs input for 6 acres of flat clay type soil that's currently in alfalfa, but may get watermelons this year.
Thanks.
Now I don't have 6 acres to do but I do have a 4' Brinly 16 blade disk. After we harvest our garden I go through it with the MMM and mow it all. Then I will disk it to get all the high spots level. Then I will till it. Tilling it leaves the ground to soft for me for it to sit for the winter so I will disk it again for the winter. The disk tightens up the ground so you can walk on it without sinking into it. I also use the disk to smooth out ground that I want to blend into the rest of the ground around it. Disking is also good for tightening up the ground where you might have pot holes. Hope this helps.
 

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If you have clay and want to disc instead of till I would suggest that you plow the ground first (fall) preferably and disc in spring.A 12-14 inch plow would give you a good 10" depth +
 

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A disk will compact the soil, not a big deal if your running over ground a couple times. If your having to run back and forth over it countless times trying to break up the ground and incorporate what's on top, it's kinda counter productive in terms of making a seedbed IMO. Dropping the scarifiers to lowest position on a box blade and running it over the ground to break up the soil prior to disking helps but it's another step to take. If I was looking at a 6 acre field and determined to put it all into a crop, I would spray with roundup, wait for it to die down, then till. A tiller will also compact soil but doubtful you will have to run over the ground multiple times with it to get the acreage prepped for watermelons.
now that is something i didn't know about a disc:dunno: i have learned something again:good2:
 

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now that is something i didn't know about a disc:dunno: i have learned something again:good2:
When you think about it,,, the width of the tires is about 1/2 the width of the disk.
The tires do a LOT of compacting at that ratio.

The individual disks are kinda like little tires, pressing down,,
rather than the lifting and tossing a plow does.
 

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I have an old section of Harrow I like to run over anything I've tilled that's landscape related. The old Harrows do an amazing job of smoothing out soil. Also do pretty well breaking up an entire winter's worth of dog land mines. :lol: I see sections of Harrow online for around $100. Or you could do like me and ask your grandma and get a nice old JD one for free. :good2:

-636
 

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The guys above are talking about "Plow Pan". It's where equipment meant to break up soil compacts the sub soil. You can get a sub soiler and break things up, but it's just a big ripper shank and requires lots of power/traction to pull. There's lots of info out there if you want to learn more. Plow Pan is a good place to start looking. :thumbup1gif:

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The guys above are talking about "Plow Pan". It's where equipment meant to break up soil compacts the sub soil. You can get a sub soiler and break things up, but it's just a big ripper shank and requires lots of power/traction to pull. There's lots of info out there if you want to learn more. Plow Pan is a good place to start looking. :thumbup1gif:

-636
No,plow as in moldboard plow.It turns the soil over,most tillers will do 6" depth and most discs (3pt) will do 3-4" on plowed ground.The plowed ground at say 8-10" for example will allow max depth on tiller or discs.My plow on my X595 in my garden can get down a good 7-8" on average.The tiller on the 345 maxes out at 6" and would go deeper if it could due to the loosen soil from the plow.
 

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No,plow as in moldboard plow.It turns the soil over,most tillers will do 6" depth and most discs (3pt) will do 3-4" on plowed ground.The plowed ground at say 8-10" for example will allow max depth on tiller or discs.My plow on my X595 in my garden can get down a good 7-8" on average.The tiller on the 345 maxes out at 6" and would go deeper if it could due to the loosen soil from the plow.
I'm pretty sure he's referring to "plow pan" to what some others may call "hard pan". He isn't describing a type of plow, he's describing what happens to the ground below the top few inches. It becomes compacted with time and the working of ground with a disk or tiller. When this happen, often folks will use a ripper plow/shank to fracture the plow pan/hard pan.
 

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I'm pretty sure he's referring to "plow pan" to what some others may call "hard pan". He isn't describing a type of plow, he's describing what happens to the ground below the top few inches. It becomes compacted with time and the working of ground with a disk or tiller. When this happen, often folks will use a ripper plow/shank to fracture the plow pan/hard pan.
Yes I know and using a ripper or chisel plowing to break it up in clay is tough.Moldboard plowing is a little easier on smaller equipment.
 
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Yes I know and using a ripper or chisel plowing to break it up in clay is tough.Moldboard plowing is a little easier on smaller equipment.
I don't disagree with that at all, plus it's a heck of a lot more fun
 
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Discussion Starter #16
solution?

Before it dries out too much, I'll kill it, mow it short, use the rippers in the box bade, till it, then put it into rows. Thanks for the advice. I think I'll put 2 acres into the melons and leave 4 in alfalfa. I have a guy to lease that and he has the right equipment for the alfalfa.
 
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Before it dries out too much, I'll kill it, mow it short, use the rippers in the box bade, till it, then put it into rows. Thanks for the advice. I think I'll put 2 acres into the melons and leave 4 in alfalfa. I have a guy to lease that and he has the right equipment for the alfalfa.
You probably already know this but if you don't maybe this will help. Shorten your top link so the box blade tilts forward enough you can use the rippers to rip and the blade on back will not be dragging soil and filling your box blade up.
 
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