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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have my 1025R on order and it should be arriving in early June. For rear ballast, I ordered an offset Heavy Hitch, (8) 70 pound suitcase weights, and the Heavy Hitch cart.

For mowing, my plan is to remove the 3 point hitch, iMatch, Heavy Hitch, and weights. I'll store all this equipment on the cart as Tim does in this video...


Does anyone else mow without the 3 point hitch installed? I know some people complain about the raising and lowering of the 3 point hitch with the mower deck when using the "mechanical" lift option. I figure it's simple enough to remove the 3 point hitch while mowing as long as there is no disadvantage or issue.

Thanks!
 

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Just leave the quick hitch on. Anything more is to much work 馃憤
 

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^^^ What they said...
 

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Remove the weight and leave the 3 point and quick hitch on.
 

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When I first got mine I did it once. Then I figured why it's not bothering anything. So now it stays on with my quick hitch.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
When I first got mine I did it once. Then I figured why it's not bothering anything. So now it stays on with my quick hitch.
Thanks for the response! How long did it take to remove/reinstall the 3PH? I'd imagine only a couple minutes, if that.

Removing the 3PH might also help me fit the tractor into the garage during the winter as opposed to my barn/shed.
 

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What Jimmy Walker said
and what MKE-=1025r said
and what Mark Eagle USA said
and of course, Big as well................
and Mackford 13 joined the crowd.....


No need to strip the poor new machine down to it's undies for mowing. Just leave the 3ph arms and I match on and you can hook up the rear ballast again without getting off the seat.

One more small detail just FYI, while you need to lift the handles on the I Match to release implements hooked to it, but you can leave the handles in the down locked position and still hook up implements without lifting the handle.

The spring loaded mechanism on the I match will allow you to load implements into the I match, even with the handles in the down / locked position. I do it all of the time. Just think about once you do drop something off the I match, put the levers down and you can load and lock the implements on the I match without having to "reset" the I match.
 

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Thanks for the response! How long did it take to remove/reinstall the 3PH? I'd imagine only a couple minutes, if that.

Removing the 3PH might also help me fit the tractor into the garage during the winter as opposed to my barn/shed.
It takes a few minutes to take off but it can be a pita to put back on. So like I say did it once & figured what's the point & nowmine stays on all the time. It dosn't really stick out that much.
 

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786631
 

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I take mine off most of the time.
I primarily mow and blow snow.
In the winter I need the tractor shorter to fit in the garage. In the summer, I don't want to back into something with it, and I've had it dig in the dirt when mowing the ditch.
It's 7 clips and 3 pins to remove it.
I did install Pat's this year...so it's heavier now. I might leave it on for the summer. Thought about making a limit strap to keep it out of the ditch dirt...
I can totally agree with leaving it on and agree with the others if you can... I would...but it's not ideal for me.
 

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I鈥檇 leave it on. With the Imatch installed it makes for a finger pincher when hooking back up.
In you initial post you mentioned 8 70lb suitcase weights. The standard Deere weights are 40-42 or 100lb
If these are 70鈥檚 it鈥檚 a little too much weight.
I use 8 40lb weights on a titan weight bracket (I screwed up on Amazon, wanted HH but didn鈥檛 look close when I auto bought)
this 320 lb is more than enough to counter anything the 1025R can lift.

A tip I would share is if you do remove the lift arms separate from the I-match they look identical. What I mean the end that attaches to the tractor vs the implement looks identical But they are just slightly different.
If you look on the end of the draft link the implement end has a proof stamp on the outside about 3 inches from the end on the outside.
this is not a issue if you know that the adjustable lift link goes on the right.
This comes into play on FILB (factory installed loader backhoe) units. The 3pt arms come in a big box and your dealer may not assemble it for you. I always assemble these for my customers. The arms will go on wrong but will always bind and not allow you to connect implements easy.
the arms will be twisted at mid lift.
 

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this 320 lb is more than enough to counter anything the 1025R can lift.
Deere recommends a minimum of 580 lbs of rear hitch ballast for safe loader operation.

 

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I鈥檇 leave it on. With the Imatch installed it makes for a finger pincher when hooking back up.
In you initial post you mentioned 8 70lb suitcase weights. The standard Deere weights are 40-42 or 100lb
If these are 70鈥檚 it鈥檚 a little too much weight.
I use 8 40lb weights on a titan weight bracket (I screwed up on Amazon, wanted HH but didn鈥檛 look close when I auto bought)
this 320 lb is more than enough to counter anything the 1025R can lift.

A tip I would share is if you do remove the lift arms separate from the I-match they look identical. What I mean the end that attaches to the tractor vs the implement looks identical But they are just slightly different.
If you look on the end of the draft link the implement end has a proof stamp on the outside about 3 inches from the end on the outside.
this is not a issue if you know that the adjustable lift link goes on the right.
This comes into play on FILB (factory installed loader backhoe) units. The 3pt arms come in a big box and your dealer may not assemble it for you. I always assemble these for my customers. The arms will go on wrong but will always bind and not allow you to connect implements easy.
the arms will be twisted at mid lift.
70# weights are a standard JD size. It is in fact what you should have on the 3 point on a 1025. There isn鈥檛 a way to get the recommended weight as Mark points out with 40# weights.
 
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