1025R Driveline Grease Zerk - Lock N Lube XL
Has anyone tried to use the Longer LockNLube XL Coupler to reach the grease zerk on the 1025R driveshaft U-joint? I tried the needle dispenser and it would not go into the joint...just made a mess around the grease zerk.
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Yes. Simple go through and in between where the hydraulic hoses run.
Yes, I have one, but without success approaching the zerk via the access hole. On my tractor the alignment is the problem. The Lock n Lube could be a foot long and still not work for me. I have enlarging the access hole on my to do list....
I "invested" in one of those. Thinking back I don't know why i did that,
I have a step drill bit laying on the work bench for my next adventure when I decide to crawl under there and the hours are right for the service.
I have a step drill bit laying on the work bench for my next adventure when I decide to crawl under there and the hours are right for the service.
I took the extension of an old “regular” grease gun, added a male and female 1/8 npt fittings and then a locknlube zerk fitting to it. Just for that one hard to reach zerk. Now I can just pop that thing onto my locknlube nozzle and get it greased. Still a pain to turn the driveline around so it’s facing me, but at least it’s doable.
The extension I took off the old gun has a bend in it and the nozzle is smaller in diameter to anything else I own.
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I always over complicate things. Looking at it now I don’t even need those brass fittings (unless I want to use it without the locknlube nozzle).
The extension I took off the old gun has a bend in it and the nozzle is smaller in diameter to anything else I own.
I always over complicate things. Looking at it now I don’t even need those brass fittings (unless I want to use it without the locknlube nozzle).
years ago, I got a coupler stuck on a zerk and ended up yanking it out. (My signature approach is impatience and premature application of force). After that episode, I put the lock and lube couplers on all my grease guns to guard against it happening again. I don’t even want to think about the possibility of yanking out that difficult driveshaft zerk.
So to answer your question, yes I use the extended L&L coupler. It works well, but it is a close fit and the alignment has to be right on. You probably already know this, but the zerks on both ends of the drive shaft are in alignment, so you can use the easy one as a guide to the position of the difficult one.
I tried using a needle. It just made a mess, like you experienced.
So to answer your question, yes I use the extended L&L coupler. It works well, but it is a close fit and the alignment has to be right on. You probably already know this, but the zerks on both ends of the drive shaft are in alignment, so you can use the easy one as a guide to the position of the difficult one.
I tried using a needle. It just made a mess, like you experienced.
I think we have all done that. It was one of the things that drove me to the Lock 'N Lube. However, not everyone is aware that the standard grease gun coupler is adjustable. You can turn the barrel to adjust the tension of the jaws. If you have a coupler that likes to rip out zerks chances are it is set too tight.
The problem is, all new grease couples come from the factory set to the maximum grip tension. To make matters worse, they have the barrel screwed on so tight that you swear it is one piece. I have had couplers so tight that even after clamping them in a vise I swore the metal was going to tear before it gave way and loosened.
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The problem is, all new grease couples come from the factory set to the maximum grip tension. To make matters worse, they have the barrel screwed on so tight that you swear it is one piece. I have had couplers so tight that even after clamping them in a vise I swore the metal was going to tear before it gave way and loosened.
I did the same thing, I used the end of my old grease gun attached to a lock n lube xl to get the zerk.
post 12 from:
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post 12 from:
Front u joint access on 1025r
Has anybody cut out an access hole for greasing the front u joint on a 1025r? I can get the zerk connected to the grease gun coupler from below, but I can’t get a visual to confirm that the grease went into the bearings rather than out the side of the coupler. (My mind may be playing games...
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Don't think you can get a normal grease gun onto either the front or rear driveshaft Ujoint on the 1025R nor 2025R. Had mine done at 200 hours by JD coming and getting the tractor (on the 2025R; never did the ones on the 1025R). JD had to remove the driveshaft to grease them. You have to turn them almost 90 degrees to get a normal grease gun onto them. There are ones that you push against the zerk but do not lock onto it, but you gotta have a good, straight shot at it. These are the only ones that would work on these zerks.
Did mine this past weekend with a standard coupler on a 6" nipple with a zerk on the other end to connect the grease gun to. Worked like a champ on both driveshaft zerks once I got the alignment right.
The XL will work, but you have to drill out the hole you have to go through so everything will line up perfectly. I drilled mine out to 1" IIRC. I used regular bits, but I would have used a step drill bit if I would have had one at the time.
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The second picture I have the LnL locked on the grease fitting and you can see how much of the barrel of the LnL is still visible.
The second picture I have the LnL locked on the grease fitting and you can see how much of the barrel of the LnL is still visible.
I didn't have any problems greasing the front one on mine either using a standard grease gun, just lined it up with the hole and stuck the hose tip on and gave her a couple of squirts, no drama. I had been putting it off because of all of the stories I had read on here about it 😂
Might be a tad harder with a hose but it's not like it's deep in a cave. It's only about 1 to 1-1/2 inches inside the frame. I had more trouble lining it up since my 3rd Function SCV plumbing runs near the flywheel and I needed to use a screwdriver to move it.
I just turned the driveshaft using a big screw driver in the rear u-joint.
The 3rd SCV plumbing prevents me from doing that. Need to use the teeth in the flywheel.
That makes sense.
I did the exact same thing. I also widened the hole and have the L&L xl tip on one grease gun. it’s totally easy and quick now.
I cannot get on even the rear driveshaft Ujoint of the 2025R with a regular grease gun or LockNload. JD had to remove the shaft (after removing the instrument panel(s). You pretty much have to turn the Ujoint about 90 degrees to get a regular gun onto it. There are other types of tips to use, but I've never found them too useful.
You have the Gen 1 2025r.
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