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My 1025R has @250hrs and has had 2 fully services including hydraulic fluid changes, filter change and suction strainer cleaned. The last hydraulic service was @100 hours ago.

Yesterday while using the tractor for a large project the tractors front end loader (FEL) started the day fine, but suddenly developed a very slow to lower bucket situation... the system seemed to solve itself and then came back and was very very slow to lower with a full bucket or an empty bucket. The lift and curl cylinders had full power and felt great, just lowering was extremely slow. Checked the hydraulic fluid, looked at the proper level.

I tried to read old threads and found talks of bad cylinders or clogged hydraulic orfices?

Where should I start my trouble shooting? Anyone else had this issue?

She is out of warranty...

Thanks in advance.

Jason


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Unseat, clean, then reconnect all 4 couplers...this solves most "my FEL won't xxx" issues. Also it's not uncommon for a coupler to go bad.
 

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My 1025R has @250hrs and has had 2 fully services including hydraulic fluid changes, filter change and suction strainer cleaned. The last hydraulic service was @100 hours ago.

Yesterday while using the tractor for a large project the tractors front end loader (FEL) started the day fine, but suddenly developed a very slow to lower bucket situation... the system seemed to solve itself and then came back and was very very slow to lower with a full bucket or an empty bucket. The lift and curl cylinders had full power and felt great, just lowering was extremely slow. Checked the hydraulic fluid, looked at the proper level.

I tried to read old threads and found talks of bad cylinders or clogged hydraulic orfices?

Where should I start my trouble shooting? Anyone else had this issue?

She is out of warranty...

Thanks in advance.

Jason
Step #1 should be to swap your curl lines with the lift lines at your mid-SVC quick connects. Does the problem still exist if you do that?
 
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Discussion Starter #7
1025r FEL very slow to lower... help me ?

Thanks to all those who posted up and are helping troubleshoot. Greatly appreciated gentlemen.

I tried cleaning the quick couplings near the peddles first and same thing, lowered very slow. Next o tried various combinations of plugging different colors to different colors and I was able to get every function of the loader to work, but one always was very slow...

The blue connection female coupling at the tractor appears to be the culprit. Any function plugged into that connection is slow to operate and when I shut the tractor off and do a circle with the FEL control to alleviate pressure there is always an insane amount of pressure left on the blue coupling. I mean literally had to tap the male couplings with a towel wrapped around them with a brass hammer. Needless to say after doing this a few times I’m coated, my tractor is coated, barn coated and even my chocolate lab with three legs is coated in hydraulic fluid even holding a towel over the couplings. I was not able to alleviate the pressure on anything plugged into that blue female coupling by pressing it against a hard object and I’m a big boy...



Well where do I troubleshoot from here?

Thanks

Jason


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Good troubleshooting:thumbup1gif:
My guess would be a bad coupler, as I wrote above it's not that unusual. I think they are $30ish at the dealer.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Kenny, greatly appreciated brother.

I owe you a few beers now don’t I...


Jason


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Called the dealer, coupling is $15 and they have it in stock, loading up the dog and the baby and headed to pocket her up. I will post an update with the new coupling to see if that’s doesn’t just fix her right quick. Might be a good reference/lesson learned for someone else.

Thanks again

Jason


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Discussion Starter #11


Fixed!!! Bad female coupling. I wish every repair bill was $15 in parts... thanks again to all those who posted up especially Kenny.

Simple replacement. Loosened all the floorboard bolts didn’t rake all the way out, just enough to gain access. A snap ring holds the coupling from moving front or back within the 4 coupling FEL hydraulic plate.

Jason


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Your welcome Jason, thanks for the update!

I'll buy that bad one from you, I'd like to do an autopsy on it to see if I can ID the failure and maybe come up with a o-ring kit. Just call me Quincy :lolol:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Kenny, pm me your address and I’ll gladly send it to you, I would be interested to hear the source of the failure myself.

I just bought a Milwaukee m18 bandsaw and swag off-road stand for it, and I was thinking about cutting her in half myself, but I would rather you take a look.

Jason


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Kenny, would you do us a favor and post your forensic results here?
 

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Over the years, this is exactly why I keep at least 2 complete quick couplings (male and female sides) in the spare parts box.

I have found once the fitting is "hanging open" or other issues (dripping, etc), unless its a clear obstruction you can remove (piece of grass, etc.) just pitch it and replace it with a new one. It's not worth the time and effort to attempt to resolve the problem with the fitting as the fittings I "repaired" by un-sticking, etc, proved to be unreliable and more trouble in the near term than they were worth, comparing the cost to replace.

Over the years, I have had a couple of occasions where they will "hang open" and turn your female coupling a 20 foot precision hydro fluid shooting fitting. Last time that happened to me, i was parked in front of the barn and when I moved the hydraulic control, the fluid would shoot straight out of the fitting in a very concentrated stream, when nothing was connected to it.
 
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