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This site is a treasure trove of information and has been very valuable to me as a first time tractor owner.

I wanted to share some pictures of how I load my 1025R FILB on an 18' PJ trailer (with 2' dovetail). Feel free to criticize the loading if you see something amiss. Note the fine JD Yellow painted "Ken's Bolt On Grab Hooks" and some Artillian pallet forks. :)

I would like to have a little more forward pull on the front than what I currently have, but the D-Rings locations are limited (the D-Rings are bolted through the trailer crossmembers with 1/2" grade 8 bolts). Right now the tongue weight is about 500-600 lbs. If I move the tractor back without adding weight to the front in order to get a better "angle", the tongue gets too light for my liking. The heavy gate on the back of the trailer also affects the loading.

I use two clevis pins through the rear hitch plate to secure the back end and grab hooks to secure the front. Here's a breakdown:

Chains: 3/8" grade 70 transport chains (2 x 20' cut into 10' pieces) (6,600 lb. WLL)
Ratchet Binders: 5/16" - 3/8" (5,400 lb. WLL)
Clevis Pins for rear: 7/8" x 4.25" with 3/4" pin, 16,000 lb load limit (5,333 lb. WLL I believe)
Clevis Hook with spring loaded latch: G70 (12,000 WLL? I don't quite recall)
Grab Hooks: Grade 70 (I don't recall the WLL)
Ratchet Straps: 2" (3,333 lb. WLL, 10,000 break)

So far the loading has worked very well and has helped to build my confidence pulling the tractor around. Stopping at rest stops to verify the load is secure typically causes people to walk up and start conversations. :)
 

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Good work, Traction.

Not that I am proud to say this, but I have hauled 4020 size farm tractors on a roll-back with half as much tie down. Of course, I was quite young then and knew everything there was to know.

What do you tow your trailer with?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Good work, Traction.

Not that I am proud to say this, but I have hauled 4020 size farm tractors on a roll-back with half as much tie down. Of course, I was quite young then and knew everything there was to know.

What do you tow your trailer with?
Thanks.

2011 Ford F150 Supercrew with the 5.0 V8. That trailer is bad on the mpg's though; loaded or unloaded I only get about 12 mpg with the gate up and I can't fold it flat.
 

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It is probably best to hook up and go and not bother with the arithmetic.
 

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Looks tied down to me. Great looking equipment and trailer. Happy motoring! :thumbup1gif:
 

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That looks good and secure. We only use 4 points when I move my 1026R. I only connect to the tractor, I don't trust hooking to the Loader or BH. They move to easily. If I went more than 15 miles or over 45MPH, I would add 4 more.
 

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Looks very good. Better than most do.

Technically (splitting hairs....) each attachment should be a different point on the trailer. Only one chain/strap per anchor point. That said, you're doing better than most, and for the load you are fine.

On the rear I'd take the chains for the tractor to the stake pockets and leave the hoe with the straps to the D rings....

:good2:
 

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This may be a dumb question, but do you need to tie down the BH or can you leave the lock pins in for trailering?
 

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Traction, the manual for my 2032R says to load tractor with hood facing to the rear of trailer to prevent hood from flying open from wind I don't know if this holds true for 1025R.
 

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In one of his pictures, it looks as though he had a padded strap over the top of the hood to help hold it down.
 

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Yes, it is stated in the 1 series manual to trailer backwards as a precaution against the hood flying up. However, my dealer delivered my 1026r facing forwards the 20 miles with nothing to prevent the hood from coming up, and nothing happened. I at least use a bungee.

Stake pockets were not designed to be used as tie down locations, they can snap. You can use them as a rub-guard if there is attachment points under the trailer.


Mr. Moose
 

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Another main reason for backing on the trailer, is if the slow moving sign is showing out the back you can be fined for it.
 

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The slow moving sign is held on by a quick release bracket. It removes with no tools so you can move it from the backhoe to the tractor when the backhoe is not mounted on the tractor. This makes it easy to remove when hauling the tractor.

In the manual the 1 series tractors is also recommends to haul backwards due to the hood. That being said, I always haul mine facing forward. It allows me to fit at least 4 implements on my 16' trailer with the tractor. And I believe the my trailer pulls better with the tractor facing forward. I hauled mine many hundreds of miles at highway speed which for me is sometimes above 75 mph. :mocking: I have had no hood issues and do not strap the hood. I double check the factory latch before hauling each time.
 

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Will the D rings bolted to the wood floor be adequate? I'd be concerned the wood would not hold in the event of an accident or emergency maneuvers.
 

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Will the D rings bolted to the wood floor be adequate? I'd be concerned the wood would not hold in the event of an accident or emergency maneuvers.
Not if it's only through the wood. The factory D-Rings have bolts that go through the wood and the steel frame underneath as well.
 

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Not if it's only through the wood. The factory D-Rings have bolts that go through the wood and the steel frame underneath as well.
I was hoping that is the way they were mounted. I was wondering also.
 

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Thanks.

2011 Ford F150 Supercrew with the 5.0 V8. That trailer is bad on the mpg's though; loaded or unloaded I only get about 12 mpg with the gate up and I can't fold it flat.
Nice info. I'm looking for a trailer now. So this will be super handy. BTW leave the tail gate up. You will get better mileage. They did a myth busters episode on it.
 
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