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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so, first up is the battery thing. The battery shows 12.7v, but the light, which was at first flashing after startup, is now on solid when running.

The second issue is that now, in addition to the potential battery/charging issue I'm getting "Shift to neutral" on the dash when I shift into gear. It feels like it goes in mechanically (there is the standard "feel" to it anyway), but acts like it's in neutral...

On the one hand, I'm glad I got it into the shop before the neutral issue, on the other hand I'd like to get the FEL off before I really dig into the wiring - if possible...

Any ideas? I've poked around w/the search function and learned a bit, but this seems different than what I've found.
 

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Should read in the low to mid 13 Volt range at the battery and higher at the alternator output terminal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

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Early 2017 Vintage 1025R TLB (260/H120)
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If you're measuring at the battery terminals, you'll see the good voltage, however a bad/loose ground could cause a lower voltage elsewhere. I'd make sure your ground connections are good both at the battery and on the ground wire(s) coming off the battery.
 
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Id be looking for a loose / broken wire or terminal connection somewhere. It's not unusual for the wiring harnesses to be installed / routed sloppy with wires contacting moving parts, etc.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've gone over the main connections. The battery seems fine, clean, tight on all ends. Ditto alternator.

Do folks think that an electrical issue is giving me problems w/the neutral switch?
 

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I've gone over the main connections. The battery seems fine, clean, tight on all ends. Ditto alternator.

Do folks think that an electrical issue is giving me problems w/the neutral switch?
You started with an electrical gremlin, I would chase that down first as it can cause all kinds of what would seem to be unrelated errors
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You started with an electrical gremlin, I would chase that down first as it can cause all kinds of what would seem to be unrelated errors
Yea, that was my take as well, but was hoping to get the FEL off... Guess not.
 
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Since you can run the tractor, could you use dollies on the loader to take it off and move it out of the way so you can work on it? See the tractor time with Tim video he did on it. (of course if your floor is smooth).
 
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I've gone over the main connections. The battery seems fine, clean, tight on all ends. Ditto alternator.

Do folks think that an electrical issue is giving me problems w/the neutral switch?
A bad ground somewhere can cause all kinds of weird electrical symptoms. If a ground connection is missing, the circuit looks for a ground somewhere else and things act weird. Since you have 2 seemingly unrelated electrical gremlins, if it were me I'd be looking for a loose or missing groundwire.
 

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Possibly loose or bad ground , just wondering have you had the battery tested at Advance, Auto Zone, your dealer. 🤷‍♂️

Shift to N could be a bad neutral switch.
look at my post from several years ago.

 

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How old is the battery? Have you had it load tested with a REAL load tester and not the electronic gizmo at the auto parts store?

Even showing good voltage, I've seen failing batteries cause electronics to do strange things. Check for obvious loose/corroded connections and if none are found then replace the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
How old is the battery? Have you had it load tested with a REAL load tester and not the electronic gizmo at the auto parts store?

Even showing good voltage, I've seen failing batteries cause electronics to do strange things. Check for obvious loose/corroded connections and if none are found then replace the battery.
Well, I replaced the battery since it was at the end of its life anyway, and I've checked and rechecked the grounds etc, still find nothing. I have a good load tester that will be here Friday, I'll look at the charging system then, but frankly I think I'm gonna have to have the dealer make a ton of money off me...
 
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Well, I replaced the battery since it was at the end of its life anyway, and I've checked and rechecked the grounds etc, still find nothing. I have a good load tester that will be here Friday, I'll look at the charging system then, but frankly I think I'm gonna have to have the dealer make a ton of money off me...
I hope you get it straightened out...Not sure about the end of life battery...Mine is still going strong after 9 years...It is the longest lasting battery I ever had.
 

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Electric/electronics are the worst.

The electronics in any type of vehicle are so sensitive that the smallest drops in voltage cause things to go haywire in things seemingly unrelated.

Get a cracked wire somewhere not obvious and you will end up in the insane asylum before figuring it out.

I agree with most that you may have lost ground somewhere and it manifests itself in weird places and ways.

Good luck
 

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I don't know if this could be your problem, but a bad regulator on an alternator can cause some weird problems. My wife's 2011 Ford Escape had:

  • Battery light intermittently on
  • loss of climate controls (sometimes)
  • loss of electric power steering (sometimes)

We had a shop test the charging system once, the couldn't find anything wrong. I thought the computer was fried....it ended up being a going-bad regulator on the alternator! Now all is working again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I don't know if this could be your problem, but a bad regulator on an alternator can cause some weird problems. My wife's 2011 Ford Escape had:

  • Battery light intermittently on
  • loss of climate controls (sometimes)
  • loss of electric power steering (sometimes)

We had a shop test the charging system once, the couldn't find anything wrong. I thought the computer was fried....it ended up being a going-bad regulator on the alternator! Now all is working again.
Yea, I'll see what the tester sez - looks like it will be here tomorrow after all.
 

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Remove the neutral switch and manual depress the ball. Does the message go away?

If it doesn't, you may have an issue with the wire 562 as it provides power to the neutral switch and battery charge level to the ICC. Start by checking the connections at the alternator and then following the harness looking for any pinches and rubs.
 

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Yea, I'll see what the tester sez - looks like it will be here tomorrow after all.
What tester did you get? Just curious.
 
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