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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks;

Well, it appears my 1025R has developed the same problem as noted in this thread:
1025R front axle leak
I found a few web hits about folks finding this problem on their 1025/1023, but none that said they actually did the work or were successful.

My left front axle looks exactly the same as the one pictured in that thread with small drops of oil on the garage floor and it is coming from the same place. There are no other leaks, and the right side is not leaking. I believe I need a new axle seal (schematic part 25, part number: LVU802855). I have downloaded the front axle disassembly procedure that kylew/ssyjfr put up (TM126919 - thanks guys!), and the procedure does not look too bad, however, having DIY'd a lot of work on my cars, I know sometimes what appears to be easy can turn into a real mess.

Has anyone done this job and replaced the seal noted in schematic as part 25 (page 17, step 10 in the procedure TM126919)? If you have, were there any problems or gotcha's to watch out for?

I found this video of the procedure on a Kubota that appears to have a very similar axle design - the video is detailed, I've linked to the part where he actually doing the work.

Based on the schematic and the disassembly procedure, it appears I could do a similar abbreviated procedure to what he did on the Kubota, since I don't have any other leaks and do not believe I need to disassemble the whole axle.
  1. Jack up front end and secure on jack stands
  2. Remove left front wheel
  3. Thoroughly clean axle and knuckle (pressure wash?) - get all dirt off to prevent dirt from falling into removed parts
  4. Drain all oil from axle.
  5. Remove Castle Nut and Lock Nut for the tie rod and steering cylinder (steps 3 and 4, page 5 in TM126919)
  6. Remove bevel gear housing (step 4, page 5 in TM126919)
  7. Remove snap ring from drive spindle lower end and separate spindle housing from ring gear housing (steps 5 and 6 page 12 in TM126919) - in the video for the Kubota this step is at 5 minutes in.
  8. Remove seal from ring gear housing (step 9, page 13 in TM126919)
  9. Check all visible bearings, clean all parts, lubricate parts with hydraulic oil
  10. Install new seal (part #LVU802855) with Lithium grease (step 10, page 17 TM126919)
  11. Install ring gear housing back onto spindle housing
  12. Install spacer and snap ring to drive spindle lower end (step 13, page 18 TM126919)
  13. Install new gasket (part# MIU801706) to bevel gear housing cover
  14. Install bevel gear housing back onto ring gear housing, cross pattern (20 lb.-ft.) (blue locktite?)
  15. Re-Attach tie rod castle nut (40 lb.-ft.) and steering cylinder lock nut (110 lb.-ft.)
  16. Refill with hydraulic oil

Anyone see any problems? One thing I am not sure of is my own step 7 above - on the Kubota, he was able to remove the snap ring noted my step 7 and the ring gear housing was pretty easily tapped off the spindle housing. I am not sure the ring gear housing would come down easily, or go back on easily like the Kubota.

Thanks for any advice/insights!
-Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Well I may have answered my own question around my step 7 above by expanding my search.

This guy titled his video a wheel bearing replacement, but he in fact was replacing the seal (number 25 in the schematic).

For him anyway, removing the snap ring from the lower spindle allowed him to slide the ring gear housing down. His issue was actually getting the old seal out and the new one in. He had to get help for that.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You can usually pop out those lip seals with a screw driver. Don't go nutty beating the new one in, try to keep it flat, use a board or something across the top of it.
Thanks for that tip Josh! - yes, I was going to use the old seal on top of the new and/or a flat board across the top to ensure I do not damage the new one. Parts are on order..
 
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Thanks for that tip Josh! - yes, I was going to use the old seal on top of the new and/or a flat board across the top to ensure I do not damage the new one. Parts are on order..
Or use an appropriately sized socket that matches the diameter. Harborfreight also sells a cheap bearing race/seal driver kit.

Search Results For "Seal Driver"

A couple of gentle taps with a rubber mallet usually does the trick for me, though I've never replaced one on a tractor. I've done a bunch of them on cars (same principle).

Best,
 
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I know people are going to hit me with "but the manual says!...." but I'd thoroughly drain the axle and refill it with good old GL5 gear oil. That's what all the CUT's used to use. Heavier oil and less likely to weep past seals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, while waiting for the part to arrive, she stopped leaking. All I did was pressure wash in anticipation of the job. I suspect it is because I have not done any heavy lifting for the last week. I think I will go out as soon as the weather clears and do a little heavy lifting and see if it starts leaking again. I will do the job anyway, looks pretty easy and its about time to replace the oil in the axle anyway.

PS: on a side note, decided to tackle fixing my Toro push mower that I could not get started last year. I gave up on trying to start it last year and didn't have the time to spend the time taking it apart. Planned on tackling it last Sunday, and pressure washed it all over while I had the washer out. Started right up on the second pull on old gas! From now on, anything that is broken I am going to pressure wash first with this magic pressure washer.
 
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Well, while waiting for the part to arrive, she stopped leaking. All I did was pressure wash in anticipation of the job. I suspect it is because I have not done any heavy lifting for the last week.
I can’t keep track of which tractor have what and all, but….

What comes to my mind when you say it now stopped leaking is wondering if when the front axle oil got hot under heavier use that it expanded which is of course normal. However, some tractors have a vent in the fill cap. I get to wondering if your vent was plugged - then the oil expanded - and it had not where else to to but through the seal.

Easy and free to take a close look at your fill plug and maybe soak it in some penetrating oil or something.

Of course I could be way off base here…..
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
No worries - still waiting for the part to arrive - love the tips in your post..
Thanks
-Ed
 
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